Mavic Pro Battery Mod

[dirtybum]

Man I have JB every device I've ever had, with exception of the iPhone 7 plus.

I was way into JB-ing, testing and modding my FW. The good old days.

Honestly there is so little the JB has anymore. It's kind of not worth it.

JB-ing, you got the lingo wrong TLS, you mean you was way into BJ-ing in the good all days.... oh wait, I just saw ed's post,sorry,my bad[emoji41]

 

[dirtybum]

well, nothing impressive about the 4.5 TP with the Titan 7.0, 36 minutes and some smoking hot motors.
3.48 main bat
3.7. titan
3.68 tp

 

[lolo780]

well, nothing impressive about the 4.5 TP with the Titan 7.0, 36 minutes and some smoking hot motors.
3.48 main bat
3.7. titan
3.68 tp

Check the cogging torque on your motors. I managed to slightly demagnetize my #1 motor and had to replace it.

 

[dirtybum]

oh and "main controller data error" along with red rear led a few minutes at a time, whatever that means? didn't change the flight behavior

 

[Ed209]

yeah since perams could be changed I'm surprised there hasnt been more of those "no main bat" tests posted here.
cyber, you was kinda the pioneer at stretching distance and flight times before me any others here even owned a mavic, have tried testing multiple combos sans dji cells?

We might be late to the game in this but without the smart board, you get no feedback on battery. No voltage, no time... Nothing. I'm going to rig up a battery board with XT60s. I know some people have done it but just need to see for myself what I can see when running power from externals through a DJI battery board...

 

[TheLightSpeed!]

oh and "main controller data error" along with red rear led a few minutes at a time, whatever that means? didn't change the flight behavior

I get that all the time. It's a overheating issue!

 

[chazz]

I haven't done any testing of separated battery board. I want to, but with 3 kids running around and dirty looks from my significant other when I'm messing with my drones, I'm limited on my free time ;-). I'm looking to you guys to test. The 18650 or new 21xxx batteries that Chaz is testing could be the key if parameters are set right. There's a high power to weight ratio, but the shifted usable range is challenging.

I agree that there is something to this we just have to figure out this power drop at 3.5V...I thought i had it for a second when i changed the 3000 setting in "emergency voltage" and it didn't start the power drop until 3.47V Maybe its related maybe it aint IDK...It flys well but the voltage does drop faster then a LIHV but not as quick at the end like the lihv's maybe there is a graph out on the net somewhere showing this...in a round about way TLS! gave me an idea with what happened to him. i may plug the battery into the external lead hanging from my drone and just plug the balance lead into the board and maybe shutting it off and back on...Hell im willing to try anything...The thing anyone with a titan battery can try is (which i will at some point) is just take the DJI battery out plug it the titan and change the perimeter to non dji and do a hover test until it falls. it wont show percentage and when i tested it shows the voltage of one cell so you do have at least something to gauge your flight...Also there is one parameter i was hesitant to change at first but im gona do it is something like "max_power_min" i'm going to change it from 380 to 500...I did changed it and started it up and held onto it just in case it was going to take off but it seemed to be ok i guess well see in a real test...

For you guys that have a family life i understand,,My woman gets mad when i spend all my spare time playin with my bird.

 

[chazz]

We might be late to the game in this but without the smart board, you get no feedback on battery. No voltage, no time... Nothing. I'm going to rig up a battery board with XT60s. I know some people have done it but just need to see for myself what I can see when running power from externals through a DJI battery board...

Didn't it show voltage to one cell? Mine does with the setting to non dji battery...

 

[Ed209]

Didn't it show voltage to one cell? Mine does with the setting to non dji battery...

Nothing. Said “N/A” or was just blank. I can’t remember.

 

[chazz]

Nothing. Said “N/A” or was just blank. I can’t remember.

Yeah i see your right i was mistaken...Mine shows the one cell voltage when i have the main lead into the battery board with no balance lead connected when i turn the board off...I do alot of things and i get confused...

 

[Ed209]

Yeah i see your right i was mistaken...Mine shows the one cell voltage when i have the main lead into the battery board with no balance lead connected when i turn the board off...I do alot of things and i get confused...

Yeah. I’m going to solder up a good battery board with balance leads to get the full monty. I am almost positive it’s been done but I can’t remember who did it and what the results were.

 

[chazz]

Yeah. I’m going to solder up a good battery board with balance leads to get the full monty. I am almost positive it’s been done but I can’t remember who did it and what the results were.

good to see your going to try this keep me posted please...This is my next try ,, battery board turned off i get cell voltage displayed but no percent... not the best scenario but better then nothing...

 

[Ed209]

good to see your going to try this keep me posted please...This is my next try ,,View attachment 21920 battery board turned off i get cell voltage displayed but no percent... not the best scenario but better then nothing...

I had to order up some JST-XH female plugs for the balance leads. Won’t be here til Friday. Explain to me what’s goin on in your picture please... do you have the cut power lines from the battery board jumpered over to the pins on the DJI plug? And then leads going from there to your xt60? I was planning on just soldering to the pins on the board and de soldering the cut leads that went to the DJI battery.

 

[chazz]

A little hard for me to explain so excuse me if it doesn't make sense...I tried the normal way (the obvious way) at first with the power leads going directly to the external as well as the balance lead. But my mah would run down from 3830 to 0 and id have some mah left in the battery at the end and my percentage would go down accordingly...So i decided to solder those jumpers on there to have some power pass the board and going direct to help use all the remaining mah and my percent would go down more slowly similar to having an external plugged in with the stock battery...I suggest maybe you don't try it this way first and see how it goes for you and it may help you understand what i mean i feel i'm bad at explaining this...Maybe you get different results...

 

[Ed209]

A little hard for me to explain so excuse me if it doesn't make sense...I tried the normal way (the obvious way) at first with the power leads going directly to the external as well as the balance lead. But my mah would run down from 3830 to 0 and id have some mah left in the battery at the end and my percentage would go down accordingly...So i decided to solder those jumpers on there to have some power pass the board and going direct to help use all the remaining mah and my percent would go down more slowly similar to having an external plugged in with the stock battery...I suggest maybe you don't try it this way first and see how it goes for you and it may help you understand what i mean i feel i'm bad at explaining this...Maybe you get different results...

Think I follow you... So the board is hard-coded for 3830mah? And then it's calculating remaining mAh based on the voltage. When using aftermarket batteries of a different capacity, the reading gets skewed. So for example, if you ran a DJI smart board and 2x MS 4000 LiHV, you're running 8000mAh... So it's not calculating correctly?

If my assumption is correct then wouldn't the reading be off until your capacity got to 3830mAh (stock DJI battery)?

Also, when you say obvious way, do you mean connecting to the power lines that are already on the board? That's not the obvious way to me. I am figuring you need to get the board powered since the button part of the battery is removed. The obvious way to me is to solder onto the back of pins 2-3 & 5-6 on the board.

 

[TheLightSpeed!]

Think I follow you... So the board is hard-coded for 3830mah? And then it's calculating remaining mAh based on the voltage. When using aftermarket batteries of a different capacity, the reading gets skewed. So for example, if you ran a DJI smart board and 2x MS 4000 LiHV, you're running 8000mAh... So it's not calculating correctly?

If my assumption is correct then wouldn't the reading be off until your capacity got to 3830mAh (stock DJI battery)?

Also, when you say obvious way, do you mean connecting to the power lines that are already on the board? That's not the obvious way to me. I am figuring you need to get the board powered since the button part of the battery is removed. The obvious way to me is to solder onto the back of pins 2-3 & 5-6 on the board.

Soldering to those pins is tough. His is very nice and clean.

But I've never seen my app register more than the 3830mAh

 

[Ed209]

Soldering to those pins is tough. His is very nice and clean.

But I've never seen my app register more than the 3830mAh

I'm pretty good with soldering and have good equipment so that shouldn't be an issue.

 

[chazz]

Think I follow you... So the board is hard-coded for 3830mah? And then it's calculating remaining mAh based on the voltage. When using aftermarket batteries of a different capacity, the reading gets skewed. So for example, if you ran a DJI smart board and 2x MS 4000 LiHV, you're running 8000mAh... So it's not calculating correctly?

If my assumption is correct then wouldn't the reading be off until your capacity got to 3830mAh (stock DJI battery)?

Also, when you say obvious way, do you mean connecting to the power lines that are already on the board? That's not the obvious way to me. I am figuring you need to get the board powered since the button part of the battery is removed. The obvious way to me is to solder onto the back of pins 2-3 & 5-6 on the board.

"So the board is hard-coded for 3830mah?" yes

"And then it's calculating remaining mAh based on the voltage?" The mah goes down quicker then the voltage so i don't think its calculated by it.

"When using aftermarket batteries of a different capacity, the reading gets skewed. So for example, if you ran a DJI smart board and 2x MS 4000 LiHV, you're running 8000mAh... So it's not calculating correctly?" if using an 8000 mah you would end up with 8000-3830 = 4170mah in the battery while the percentage is down to 0% and showing 0 mah remaining...

"If my assumption is correct then wouldn't the reading be off until your capacity got to 3830mAh"
The capacity drops just as fast as a normal dji battery with 3830 mah which is about 20min flight time and you will be left with 4170 left in the tank and still plenty of voltage...

"Also, when you say obvious way, do you mean connecting to the power lines that are already on the board?" yes that's what i meant maybe i shouldn't have said obvious..

"I am figuring you need to get the board powered since the button part of the battery is removed."
The button is still there look at my pic under the main ground lead

"The obvious way to me is to solder onto the back of pins 2-3 & 5-6 on the board"
More proof i shouldn't have said obvious..Your way may be better...


Id like to add i haven't tested this as much with the mav battery as i have done with the P3 battery actually only one flight wired the "my obvious" way without the jumpers and now with the capability to select non dji battery in assistant to stop auto land on the mav that was caused by percent remaining (10% mah) you can run at 0% for a while without an issue untill your voltage hits 3.5V then there is nothing i know you can do...

Disclaimer: All the answers i gave were based on the way i decided to solder the leads to the board without the jumpers ,,,your way may have different results..

 

[lolo780]

Did an indoor hover test with the TP3500hv and TP4500hv, no DJI battery. Ran it until the 10.5v critical battery alert popped up and landed at 34:58.
AUW 980g, air temp 18c, motors warm but nothing unusual. I positioned the batteries roughly centered between the four props and will check RPMs etc. later. If anyone has flight data from their tests, it would be great to post up to compare setups.
Next test will be DJI battery plus both TP packs.

 

[Ed209]

"So the board is hard-coded for 3830mah?" yes

"And then it's calculating remaining mAh based on the voltage?" The mah goes down quicker then the voltage so i don't think its calculated by it.

"When using aftermarket batteries of a different capacity, the reading gets skewed. So for example, if you ran a DJI smart board and 2x MS 4000 LiHV, you're running 8000mAh... So it's not calculating correctly?" if using an 8000 mah you would end up with 8000-3830 = 4170mah in the battery while the percentage is down to 0% and showing 0 mah remaining...

"If my assumption is correct then wouldn't the reading be off until your capacity got to 3830mAh"
The capacity drops just as fast as a normal dji battery with 3830 mah which is about 20min flight time and you will be left with 4170 left in the tank and still plenty of voltage...

"Also, when you say obvious way, do you mean connecting to the power lines that are already on the board?" yes that's what i meant maybe i shouldn't have said obvious..

"I am figuring you need to get the board powered since the button part of the battery is removed."
The button is still there look at my pic under the main ground lead

"The obvious way to me is to solder onto the back of pins 2-3 & 5-6 on the board"
More proof i shouldn't have said obvious..Your way may be better...


Id like to add to i haven't tested this as much with the mav battery as i have done with the P3 battery actually only one flight wired the "my obvious" way without the jumpers and now with the capability to select non dji battery in assistant to stop auto land on the mav that was caused by percent remaining (10% mah) you can run at 0% for a while without an issue untill your voltage hits 3.5V then there is nothing i know you can do...

Disclaimer: All the answers i gave were based on the way i decided to solder the leads to the board without the jumpers ,,,your may may have different results..

Thanks for the clarification. Much clearer now. I just got done soldering up and now the board doesn't turn on. Really strange. I know it was a good board and I tested it by connecting a battery to the original cut leads before I desoldered them. Thought I would get a jump on the soldering before the balance leads arrived.