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Mavic Pro Battery Mod

Just got back from another run. This time using dual 1700s just to make sure my direct power mod isn't the culprit. Dual 1700s actually outperformed the Titan 7000.
Airdata UAV - Flight Data Analysis for Drones

I'll be waiting to the more results from the others who ordered.

EDIT: I have to do a full calibration. Not sure if it was due to opening up the Mavic or something else I did earlier this week but there were definite control issues.
 
Just got back from another run. This time using dual 1700s just to make sure my direct power mod isn't the culprit. Dual 1700s actually outperformed the Titan 7000.
Airdata UAV - Flight Data Analysis for Drones

I'll be waiting to the more results from the others who ordered.

EDIT: I have to do a full calibration. Not sure if it was due to opening up the Mavic or something else I did earlier this week but there were definite control issues.
Have you already made a run with the 7000? If so how did it turn out? I missed that.
 
Yes, it got lost in the disturbance and the OT posts.
Mavic Pro Battery Mod
Seems that you had the same compass error problems that I had. I can't run that battery on my bird. But I did get a chance to run it some around here close despite the errors and it was draining down at a rate that would have led me to believe that it would have been far from any 52 minute run.
 
Seems that you had the same compass error problems that I had. I can't run that battery on my bird. But I did get a chance to run it some around here close despite the errors and it was draining down at a rate that would have led me to believe that it would have been far from any 52 minute run.

Oh yeah I knew it was not performing within the first couple minutes at the rate the battery was dropping. I checked Go and looked at the compass. 1 was BAD and 2 was yellow GOOD. So I took a chance. It was drifting a little but nothing like an all out compass failure. I've had complete failures on the P3 and managed to bring it back so I felt like gambling. Just like I gambled $100 with these Titans. :)
 
Oh yeah I knew it was not performing within the first couple minutes at the rate the battery was dropping.
Exactly. That's the same way I felt when I saw it dropping at the rate that it was. Yes, I would like to see DJ's flight date from Airdata.
 
Well looks like I will stick with my multi star 5200 for now 33 mins landed with 12 % in tank., also not a calm day...is it the fact this Titan so long or wot? See in September if I can get one from UK warehouse...or perhaps not. First an antenna.
 
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Well looks like I will stick with my multi star 5200 for now 33 mins landed with 12 % in tank., also not a calm day...is it the fact this Titan so long or wot? See in September if I can get one from UK warehouse...or perhaps not. First an antenna.
We need to see more results before we can make a call on these batteries.
 
Who else is waiting on them???
I'm not sure. But are you afraid to make a distance run with that battery since it's messing with the compass? We need someone to do a distance run and that would give better results than these close in runs I think.
 
Who else is waiting on them???
Im not. As in: out of stock and cannot get em. I would love to confirm or bust this thing. Is it not a simple math thing?
The mavic pulls around 18A with 350g addon weight. 7000+3850= 10850mAh.
So optimally we should expect 36.2 mins outta this draining it totally..
Man, i feel so "simple" sometimes.
@sprtbkrydr : my advice on gaining confidence>> couple flights just beyond vlos and doing some RTH during this.
 
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I tested many different 18650 type cells in the past. That's why I was saying all along this wouldn't work well. I also tested GEB8043125 cells (4S 6100mAh) which holds the world record for energy density (262Wh per Kg). This battery can only discharge at 1C but I carefully tested it on my P3 after analyzing logs with DatCon and determining that I could keep the current below 6A when running an external battery and finessing flight controls.

For real dramatic results with 18650s or the GEB8043125 you need a tuned aircraft... That means high efficiency ESCs and motors and props made efficiency, mated to a lightweight and efficient airframe. I can't tell you how many hours I spent researching this! Doing this on a quad is very difficult.
Here is a guy who's done it right.
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I'm not sure. But are you afraid to make a distance run with that battery since it's messing with the compass? We need someone to do a distance run and that would give better results than these close in runs I think.

I'm not afraid to run a distance run. The test flight pattern I've run is the same thing I've done for the last 2yrs to prove all batteries. These aren't worth a distance run. The oval pattern is good because you are keeping forward momentum and trading off headwind/tailwind. So in the end, it's just the same as going out and back. All of my previous tests of other batteries using this method matched up to a straight run.
 
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Just got back from another run. This time using dual 1700s just to make sure my direct power mod isn't the culprit. Dual 1700s actually outperformed the Titan 7000.
Airdata UAV - Flight Data Analysis for Drones

I'll be waiting to the more results from the others who ordered.

EDIT: I have to do a full calibration. Not sure if it was due to opening up the Mavic or something else I did earlier this week but there were definite control issues.

I had one more time to think about this. I would like to think calculating a flight time isn't hard and some other difference could be affecting the differences in results between different birds.
Then I thought of the firmware difference, not the firmware on the bird although that may make a little difference. Specifically the firmware on the mavic batteries.
I can't explain the "electronics" behind it and how this could affect the results being different from different birds since I've been told not to talk about electronics.
But in short, it has to do with how the power would flow and management on how electronics control that flow. If DJHood ever shows back it might be something to ask about and compare.

Also basic metals and principles behind electronics like taking the shortest path and the difference on each mod to get the GPS and compass siggnals child have an affect, types of metals being used, how long the metal strips are and types of wire.
When I say wire, they have copper stand wire, but cheaper wire has come on the market also that is copper plated steal, or copper plated aluminum.
The copper plated aluminum is easy to test, take a lighter to the end of a wire strand and if it burns away it's aluminum. Different wire and metal shunt parts used to attach to the pin out under the battery will cause different resistance and direct the flow differently. In short heat battery power gets used first, the mavic or the titan.
If the mavic get used first then the system will read that and want to land near low battery. If the Titan is used first then the mavics battery power is a slower current allowing a longer flight.
Ideally the best setup would be both used equally in a perfect match at the same resistance and flow of current to prevent one battery typemtrying to charge another. But people buy parts and wire from different sources, I've even seen a video of someone using brass metal plates and not copper. Brass would heat up more and be a loss of energy compared to copper.
The best would be nickel, but with a mod like this for the pins on the bird and bending with constant plugging and unplugging of batteries more strength would be better. So nickel plated steel would probably be the best.

I'll leave it at that for now, I don't want to get to technical or electrical and be accused of going off topic when I'm just trying to help.
 
Im not. As in: out of stock and cannot get em. I would love to confirm or bust this thing. Is it not a simple math thing?
The mavic pulls around 18A with 350g addon weight. 7000+3850= 10850mAh.
So optimally we should expect 36.2 mins outta this draining it totally..
Man, i feel so "simple" sometimes.
@sprtbkrydr : my advice on gaining confidence>> couple flights just beyond vlos and doing some RTH during this.

Where are you getting 18A from? Also, I don't have the actual measurement but I'm certain a stock Mavic with no extra batteries can pull over 22A. Also, the amperage is divided across the externals when they are in parallel. That's why my Airdata log shows my flight mostly below 10A with some peaks around 15A at times. I haven't put in the time to look into the actual log files but there is a field there which shows the Amps being pulled. That's how Airdata gets this info.
 
Still dual 1700 out performed the Titan on same Mavic....need more tests for sure just can't get Titans over to here easy n told out of stock...
 
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I had one more time to think about this. I would like to think calculating a flight time isn't hard and some other difference could be affecting the differences in results between different birds.
Then I thought of the firmware difference, not the firmware on the bird although that may make a little difference. Specifically the firmware on the mavic batteries.
I can't explain the "electronics" behind it and how this could affect the results being different from different birds since I've been told not to talk about electronics.
But in short, it has to do with how the power would flow and management on how electronics control that flow. If DJHood ever shows back it might be something to ask about and compare.

Also basic metals and principles behind electronics like taking the shortest path and the difference on each mod to get the GPS and compass siggnals child have an affect, types of metals being used, how long the metal strips are and types of wire.
When I say wire, they have copper stand wire, but cheaper wire has come on the market also that is copper plated steal, or copper plated aluminum.
The copper plated aluminum is easy to test, take a lighter to the end of a wire strand and if it burns away it's aluminum. Different wire and metal shunt parts used to attach to the pin out under the battery will cause different resistance and direct the flow differently. In short heat battery power gets used first, the mavic or the titan.
If the mavic get used first then the system will read that and want to land near low battery. If the Titan is used first then the mavics battery power is a slower current allowing a longer flight.
Ideally the best setup would be both used equally in a perfect match at the same resistance and flow of current to prevent one battery typemtrying to charge another. But people buy parts and wire from different sources, I've even seen a video of someone using brass metal plates and not copper. Brass would heat up more and be a loss of energy compared to copper.
The best would be nickel, but with a mod like this for the pins on the bird and bending with constant plugging and unplugging of batteries more strength would be better. So nickel plated steel would probably be the best.

I'll leave it at that for now, I don't want to get to technical or electrical and be accused of going off topic when I'm just trying to help.

Good points. If he ever shows up I would run whatever firmware he is on, that's not a problem now ;). I don't think the battery firmware would have this gross of a calculation deviance. But I digress since DJ is MIA.

To your remarks about metals and shortest path, I'm fully aware. I can't tell what wiring the Titans have but I can say that for my direct power mod I used 14AWG Superworm - 400 strands of solid copper wiring. I cut the main power leads inside the Mavic and soldered everything together. No jumper wires. So all leads have a direct path and meet at the same point. We did have some phenomenon in the past where a couple guys were getting stunning results with a certain pack and nobody else could duplicate. We got into checking internal resistance of cells, etc. That person even sent me his actual battery and I could not produce the same result. It was never solved.
 
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