Mavic Pro Battery Mod

[Ed209]

Yeah not too good with the 2 - 5.2's 32min to 10%...I flew around a 1000' circle pattern...Compass errors pretty much the whole flight and Max motor speed when going into the wind (maybe 5mph wind) until then end when i hit 10% and it hit max motor speed as it was going down until it took a face plant in the ground...I pretty much had it gunned the whole flight...The flight log on Airdata doesn't reflect the flight as far as the errors i was getting maybe something to do with changing it to non dji battery IDK...DB you were right and i understand exactly what you mean now. This things a little Glitchy but it IS very durable,,, it took the face plant like a champ...

Airdata UAV - Flight Data Analysis for Drones

Nice test! That's a **** heavy payload there. Basically that extra 5200 was burned off by merely fighting to keep the Mavic in the air lol

 

[dirtybum]

Nice test! That's a **** heavy payload there. Basically that extra 5200 was burned off by merely fighting to keep the Mavic in the air lol

yep Chazz, like 209 said, and we all know from heavy payloads on the PIII, that bird can carry some payloads, but at some point you're not getting any better flight time then lighter combos. that makes me hesitant to even try the 10.0 solid block now. If you look at a couple back to back flights I did with the mav and the 6.6 and then the 8.0 brick, they were pretty close to identical. Both went 40,000 both landed with 20+ percent. so just like with the PIII, at some point the extra MAH is eaten away. thanks for trying it out and reporting back for the rest of us Chazz, not to mention risking your brand new AC for the community

 

[MacIak]

They filled in the saddle battery print. Made it stronger.

Also widened it a little.

Very nice! I will try the battery wing too when back from vacation. You got the stl for it (or you purchased it somewhere?). Does it fit well?

 

[chazz]

Yeah she was screaming at me the whole time i wonder why it didn't show it on Airdata..

One of the 5.2s is a little messed up (low cell) and I'm waiting for a new one to come in but when i get it i don't think I'll be trying it again because even if i gain a minute i know what the ending will be...

 

[sprtbkrydr]

Very nice! I will try the battery wing too when back from vacation. You got the stl for it (or you purchased it somewhere?). Does it fit well?

Funny thing you stay on vacation!

 

[Kate]

Thats awesome!

After a year, some Aftermarket ppls still need to step up.
This design comes straight to mind

 

[TheLightSpeed!]

Very nice! I will try the battery wing too when back from vacation. You got the stl for it (or you purchased it somewhere?). Does it fit well?

I don't, 3Dhubs did it and the guy I used here in AZ, he asked me if I wanted any changes. So I had it widened 2mm. Still not enough to fit two batteries.

It would be a great location for two 3.0's. But we need a 58mm width

 

[dirtybum]

Thats awesome!

After a year, some Aftermarket ppls still need to step up.
This design comes straight to mind

If you guys havent read some her posts or replies before yer missin out! kate is like the resident shockjock of this forum, or maybe not a shock jock at all, maybe a right on point Professional, you decide, either way always entertaining, she should start her own podcast[emoji41]

 

[frysie]

I don't, 3Dhubs did it and the guy I used here in AZ, he asked me if I wanted any changes. So I had it widened 2mm. Still not enough to fit two batteries.

It would be a great location for two 3.0's. But we need a 58mm width

they want $80USD to print a batwing.................. crazy! good thing i bought a 3d printer for $300 lol.............. just waiting for it to be built and shipped.

 

[CyberNate]

Thats awesome!

After a year, some Aftermarket ppls still need to step up.
This design comes straight to mind

One of my favorite phones in the early

Yeah not too good with the 2 - 5.2's 32min to 10%...I flew around a 1000' circle pattern...Compass errors pretty much the whole flight and Max motor speed when going into the wind (maybe 5mph wind) until then end when i hit 10% and it hit max motor speed as it was going down until it took a face plant in the ground...I pretty much had it gunned the whole flight...The flight log on Airdata doesn't reflect the flight as far as the errors i was getting maybe something to do with changing it to non dji battery IDK...DB you were right and i understand exactly what you mean now. This things a little Glitchy but it IS very durable,,, it took the face plant like a champ...

Airdata UAV - Flight Data Analysis for Drones

Actually, these are pretty good results considering you were flying in wind and hit over 34 mph. It is easy to drain any external batteries quickly if you push the RPM/Power meter much over 80%. For heavy batteries you really need to fly on no wind days and keep that tachometer/power meter down under or near 80%. When I flew my dual 4000mah LiHV for just under 40 minutes, I had no more than 2mph wind and I flew at 30-32mph out into the wind and 33.6 mph back with the wind in RTH mode and full right stick. The mavic sucks a lot of power if you spin up the motors to 100%. You can view the tachometer in P-mode by having sport mode switch on BEFORE powering on controller followed by powering on Mavic.

I do believe that the dual 5200s are too heavy. The problem is that Mavic can fly ok when they are fully charged, but later as voltage drops, there is less power available and when you stop horizontal flight there is also less lift if you are coming straight down. I've also seen that with my dual 4000's in auto landing mode. Even before autolanding mode, one needs to be careful when descending on low battery. Better to descend while moving forward at a slow rate. I've bounced my Mavic off the ground a few times coming in with under 4 percent battery.

 

[TheLightSpeed!]

they want $80USD to print a batwing.................. crazy! good thing i bought a 3d printer for $300 lol.............. just waiting for it to be built and shipped.

Mine was $15

 

[TheLightSpeed!]

So I took my first attempt at wiring up the smart board from a battery. I learned there's no way around the balance lead. The board only runs with the balance lead hooked up in addition to the XT60 large gauge wires. I had intended on setting this up for two XT60 connectors to run both my MS 3.0's. But fashioning a dual female balance connector is challenging.

I'm going to do one and get a single larger battery to do this with.

 

[Ed209]

So I took my first attempt at wiring up the smart board from a battery. I learned there's no way around the balance lead. The board only runs with the balance lead hooked up in addition to the XT60 large gauge wires. I had intended on setting this up for two XT60 connectors to run both my MS 3.0's. But fashioning a dual female balance connector is challenging.

I'm going to do one and get a single larger battery to do this with.

These are the easiest things to make and they are more forgiving than soldering other components. Just hold 2 XT60s together and position the male in between. All you have to do is have all the positives connected and negatives connected. Solder them together and they'll be rock solid.

Edit: I misunderstood your post. You can just get this if you dont wanna mess around.

JST-XH Parallel Balance Lead 3S 250mm (2xJST-XH)

XT60 Harness for 2 Packs in Parallel (1pc)

 

[TheLightSpeed!]

These are the easiest things to make and they are more forgiving than soldering other components. Just hold 2 XT60s together and position the male in between. All you have to do is have all the positives connected and negatives connected. Solder them together and they'll be rock solid.

Edit: I misunderstood your post. You can just get this if you dont wanna mess around.

JST-XH Parallel Balance Lead 3S 250mm (2xJST-XH)

XT60 Harness for 2 Packs in Parallel (1pc)

Yeah I'm with ya. I'll get it figured out. I have a bag of XT connectors. Just the little tiny Balance on the Mavic battery and then the bigger balance lead on the Multistar batteries is going to be challenging. I was hoping to find an adapter from a little to a big. But no luck.

All this because I'm impatiently waiting for my Battery Clip to come from U.K. Ugh.

 

[Ranch]

Is there any reason to not buy a 4S battery? MS LIHV 4000mah batteries are in stock at Hobbyking

 

[TheLightSpeed!]

Is there any reason to not buy a 4S battery? MS LIHV 4000mah batteries are in stock at Hobbyking

I've been told because the Mavic uses a 3S. Can't comprehend a 4s

 

[frysie]

3d hub wants $80 delivered

Mine was $15

 

[TheLightSpeed!]

so i played more with the battery today, I think im at a luxury because i managed to open the battery. I wanted to try one of the pad sets, this one:

quickly realized that these were for a serial connection, not another power spot. I kinda wish i hadn't, cause I crossed my + and - wires accidentally (tape came off) and it fried a resistor on the smart board. Smart board wont turn on the Mavic anymore, no volts at the power pins. Oh well ..

Then i decided to go after soldering the power pins. I took #2,3 and bridged the connection (this is negative). I then took 4,5,6,7 (positive + ) and bridged a connection. I then soldered an xt60 line on, and hooked it into the Mavic. (Forgive my cr@p soldering here i was having issues with really cra@ppy solder and an iron which wouldn't heat)

The test is, "does the Mavic turn on without the battery powered on" .. the answer is in the video below:

Spoiler alert: It works. So the battery mod needs to be soldered onto the power pins directly. This bypasses the smart board and allows you to piggyback onto the power connection without it doing whatever it does. This wiill allow you to run externals directly from it. However, with the size of the pins this will be a hard mod without cutting out a pretty good piece of the battery plastic, or taking the battery cover off.

Anyways, I'm pretty sure this is the method to use for modding the battery. Now I'm debating opening a second one to try on a non-fried smart board. If i did do it again, i'd do two small holes directly above the pins.

Thanks again!

I got my smart board working!

 

[TheLightSpeed!]

Thanks again!

I got my smart board working!

You were right it's hard as hell to build up on those pins. But once I did I was able to stack and solder.

 

[Kate]

If you guys havent read some her posts or replies before yer missin out! kate is like the resident shockjock of this forum, or maybe not a shock jock at all, maybe a right on point Professional, you decide, either way always entertaining, she should start her own podcast[emoji41]

Lol, you mock me?
either way that made my day
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