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Mavic Pro Motor Mod

Your Awesome man! I'd turn the brakes down a little so it doesn't back flip.

But there is something I'm not going to tell you because you will want to buy more stuff without testing these first.

We have serious unresolved issues...

And those quietly watching these threads are just in denial of their issues :)
 
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When you testing? maybe try only 2 first? hover?

Still on the bench and connected one battery and balance cable (4 of the 5 pins) to the battery controller, and the other battery to the external connector.

I have zero experience with 4s, what are the voltage ranges expected and are the attached errors valid?

EDIT: the MS5200/4s batteries had an insert that said they were charged to 30%. I have them on the charger now.

dronemods-2018-267.png dronemods-2018-266.png
 
Back when I was learning the voltages for the mavic 3s batteries, I created this graph that I still carry with me for all long ranges flights.

I need to know what to expect for 4s and make a new document. Anyone have this data?

EDIT: this graph was from 3 different independent flights that came up short and didn't make it home and crashed using the entire battery,

upload_2018-6-4_17-6-46.png
 
Still on the bench and connected one battery and balance cable (4 of the 5 pins) to the battery controller, and the other battery to the external connector.

I have zero experience with 4s, what are the voltage ranges expected and are the attached errors valid?

EDIT: the MS5200/4s batteries had an insert that said they were charged to 30%. I have them on the charger now.

View attachment 39416 View attachment 39417

you didn't buy lihv which is what i didn't want to tell you yet. you got the 14,8V instead of 15.2V. You can charge that battery to 16.8V. 4.2V per cell. Charge it using the normal lipo setting on your charger. Don't run it down past 3V per cell i hear that will destroy the battery. Fly around with it and see how long of light time you get with it but don't stray too far away from home. Its up to you to make sure you land before 3V it wont autoland. (or at least mine didnt) Percentage readout is worthless only go by single cell voltage. It will display the lowest cell on the front page of djigo.
 
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My flight with 4s lihv was 2 - 4200 and an 8000 lihv total 16400 mah i got over 50min yours is 15600mah non lihv. i don't know what the difference will be but i'm stressing land before 3V to save the batteries.
 
i have my voltages down to 2.5V in the FW for the lion and i never change them back up when flying 4s lipos. i dont know if it actually does anything for the lipos 4s i never tried not...
 
OK, went into assistant and set this:

upload_2018-6-4_17-59-3.png


And go4 appears to be correct now:

upload_2018-6-4_17-59-59.png

upload_2018-6-4_18-0-15.png

I think I am ready for a hover test. Wish me luck...
 
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you didn't buy lihv which is what i didn't want to tell you yet. you got the 14,8V instead of 15.2V. You can charge that battery to 16.8V. 4.2V per cell. Charge it using the normal lipo setting on your charger. Don't run it down past 3V per cell i hear that will destroy the battery. Fly around with it and see how long of light time you get with it but don't stray too far away from home. Its up to you to make sure you land before 3V it wont autoland. (or at least mine didnt) Percentage readout is worthless only go by single cell voltage. It will display the lowest cell on the front page of djigo.

Uhhh, I charged it on LiHv setting... ooops!
 
I noticed the power-up procedure with this battery controller is very specific. I think I messed up on that last flight and reattempting shortly.

I will try to document the exact procedure sometime tonight.

One item of interest, with the higher voltage the bird now sounds like a real drone and not a fluffy marshmallow :)
 
the data file is corrupt. There is no useful data that i see. Motor Controller signal (PWM) isn't even there to choose.
 
Ugg, I think we may eventually burn out the battery controller with the increased voltage. Just did a 10 min hover and the board was too hot to touch (and the LEDs were much brighter than on 3s). Not sure how to engineer around this one.
 

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