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Mavic & Solar Eclipse

QuadKid

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Just wanted to provide a little info for the upcoming Solar Eclipse here in the US.

DO NOT try to photo/video the eclipse with any DJI drones unless you have a 10 stop Solar filter (which they do not make for DJI products ). A 10 Stop ND is 100,000x darker than the stock clear lens, or equivalent to a ND 300-600 Filter depending on the MM size.

You may get away with it during the totality phase of the eclipse but the second the sun peeks out you could fry the CCD in the camera.

I will not be using my Mavic for anything but doing a time lapse of the shadow coming & going.

Just a forcast but I can see it now

New Thread "Camera will not work after eclipse"
 
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Reactions: dieselwind
Plus, depending on where you are - the eclipse may very well be straight up in the sky (high noon-ish).
 
As several people pointed out on your similar thread on the DJI forum, you are putting out incorrect info. Shooting the sun during the eclipse, if you are so inclined and can get it pointed at the sun, will probably not damage your camera. First of all, the Mavic camera is a CMOS, not a CCD. Second, the Mavic is not a good choice of camera for the eclipse. The gimbal angle will not allow the camera to point up enough while in a hover for the sun's position in most areas of the country.
 
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Hmmm, I find that info ironic as hundreds of Mavics are flying around today (including mine) that have had their cameras point directly at the sun as they have turned around in the sky and many filmed sunsets well before sun goes down but none have destroyed their cameras.
 
Enabling the 30degree angle up is an option but you HAVE TO CHANGE YOUR ANGLE - THINK BACKWARDS - Here are two better ideas -
1. Aim West to see the sunset begin and move 360 degrees around the horizon as totality hits - We will experience a 360 Sunset from All Directions.
2. If you are in the path of totality the shadow will be crispy and clear on the ground but you have to be at the peak of the 400ft height. Fix the camera position down or aim just about 10 degrees up from straight down facing the WEST so that you have the MP at the perfect angle with its back to the sun and the camera at the same angle. How - Just find your shadow at 30 ft up set your angle on your drone shadow and then Go up to 400 and focus on something shiny on the ground, you will see an amazing rainbow. You can even present your camera angle ahead of time.
 
If you want to photograph what'll be an indistinguishable tiny burnt out blob in the sky then feel free - it wont damage the camera but the images will be worthless. The camera is wide angle with awful dynamic range. You'll get better results from a cell phone (and those will be awful too).
 
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Completely wrong, not to mention that if you want to use a Mavic to shoot something from the eclipse you'd rather shoot the ground and shadows instead of a little dot in the wide angle view...
 
DO NOT try to photo/video the eclipse with any DJI drones unless you have a 10 stop Solar filter (which they do not make for DJI products ). A 10 Stop ND is 100,000x darker than the stock clear lens, or equivalent to a ND 300-600 Filter depending on the MM size.

This is incorrect. The Sun during the eclipse is not any brighter than on any other day, some people seem to think that the eclipse makes it brighter somehow. It won't hurt the camera any more during the eclipse than other times of the year. As others have pointed out, using the Mavic to record the Sun during the eclipse will result in a very disappointing image. The angular size of the Sun is one half of a degree. 1/160th of the FoV, that is about 24 overexposed pixels.

If you are using something other than a wide angle lens then that is the time where you need to protect a camera with a solar filter.
 
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This is an excellent post, thank you. I plan to follow this approach. Question: what video settings and exposure settings would you recommend? I think auto exposure might screw up everything? Or maybe fixed exposure will be too dark or too blown out at apex day and night.
 
I did a little experimenting today,and found using a 32ND filter worked well on the sun,with a ISO of 100,and a fstop of 60. I also have my gimble set to pan up 30 degrees. The pictures are with a ND4,ND8,ND16,and ND32.Eclipse TestDJI_0005.JPGEclipse TestDJI_0010.JPGEclipse TestDJI_0004.JPGEclipse TestDJI_0003.JPG
 
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