Merge all AEB photos or just pick a single one?

[brett8883]

Yes they are.

And if you use the cross hairs it makes life a bit easier.

Here's another way...

Find a spot on the horizon that is easily defined (water tower, antenna, building, hill) then center that. Gimbal up, take first picture then pan left or right and overlap your frames. Count how many you take, then recenter and go the other way doing the same thing.
Now drop gimbal and do it all over again.

Throw it in your stitching program of choice and, VOILA!

Hopefully DJI gets the SDK out soon for the MA2 so you can do the panos in Litchi or something similar. It’s too bad DJI doesn’t let you customize the pano capture process in their app. Sounds like a lot of work, what you are doing.

 

[Dale D]

Hey Guys,

Lately I've been practicing my photography more (I do more video that photo tbh).

Shooting RAW (with an ND-4 on from previous video work) and trying out different shutter speeds to get more practice and try to improve.

What I would have typically done is shot RAW using AEB-5 and the just picked the slightly (or maybe most) underexposed image and then import that into LIghtroom and try to work on it there.

Was wondering is this what folks typically do ? I've also heard of people merging all 5 photos into one ? Not sure if that's the way to go. Was going to try it but I can't see an option for it in Lightoom.

Not a huge fan of the Smart Photo option tbh but I've tried some 48mp photos too.

The version of LR is Adobe Photoshop Lightroom v3.3. See attached image for screenshot.

Any thoughts / guidance would be good

Thanks Ro

I use mostly Photoshop CC2020, and only Lighroom for timelapse. However, the engine is the same. Ideally, you would want to take 3-5 images separated by 1/2 to 1 stop exposures, load them into Lightroom or Photoshop, right click, select all, and right click merge to HDR. The software will do the rest. The final product can then be brought into Lightroom or Photoshop for fine tuning of the global, or local editing changes. I've been doing this for years. My Nikon DSLR settings allow AEB (auto exposure bracketing) an d I canst the number of frames and the exposure (e.eg.: 1/2 strip or full stop) between exposures.

With the drone, you can use the AEB setting the same way. E.g.: set the number of exposures and the f/stop changes between exposures.

 

[itsneedtokno]

Hopefully DJI gets the SDK out soon for the MA2 so you can do the panos in Litchi or something similar. It’s too bad DJI doesn’t let you customize the pano capture process in their app. Sounds like a lot of work, what you are doing.

I agree.

I enjoy it, but when I get home and realize I messed up... It's not so much fun.

It's really worth it though...
This picture had to be edited in PS also because the clouds above did not line up. When all was said and done, I probably had around 2 hours invested in this picture.

Blown Away (somewhat literally) ...100 Picture HDR Pano...

So a little backstory... I got a Timelapse of this front coming at me, and when it was finished I had to fly farther away to get a wider picture... with a tailwind. So I fly about 2000 feet away and start taking pictures... at 18% battery. (I already know I'm not making the wisest decisions...

mavicpilots.com

 

[brett8883]

I use mostly Photoshop CC2020, and only Lighroom for timelapse. However, the engine is the same. Ideally, you would want to take 3-5 images separated by 1/2 to 1 stop exposures, load them into Lightroom or Photoshop, right click, select all, and right click merge to HDR. The software will do the rest. The final product can then be brought into Lightroom or Photoshop for fine tuning of the global, or local editing changes. I've been doing this for years. My Nikon DSLR settings allow AEB (auto exposure bracketing) an d I canst the number of frames and the exposure (e.eg.: 1/2 strip or full stop) between exposures.

With the drone, you can use the AEB setting the same way. E.g.: set the number of exposures and the f/stop changes between exposures.

If you read post#6 you’ll see that Adobe specifically says not to use more than 2 photos for the HDR if the darkest and lightest exposure are less than 3 stops different.

 

[Dale D]

If you read post#6 you’ll see that Adobe specifically says not to use more than 2 photos for the HDR if the darkest and lightest exposure are less than 3 stops different.

Regardless of what Adobe says, if the image has high dynamic range (e.g.: very dark areas, and very light areas), I will shoot anywhere from 3 to 5 images. Photoshop now does such a great job with this its is really easy to load them into the ACR (Adobe Camera Raw), right click and merge to HDR, then edit the final result.

As an example, I am thinking of an image such as shooting inside a dark house with a window showing a beautiful view. I want the details inside the house, as well as the details outside the window. This could easily be a 3 to 4 stop difference.

 

[Ron Caballero CAP]

Hey Guys,

Lately I've been practicing my photography more (I do more video that photo tbh).

Shooting RAW (with an ND-4 on from previous video work) and trying out different shutter speeds to get more practice and try to improve.

What I would have typically done is shot RAW using AEB-5 and the just picked the slightly (or maybe most) underexposed image and then import that into LIghtroom and try to work on it there.

Was wondering is this what folks typically do ? I've also heard of people merging all 5 photos into one ? Not sure if that's the way to go. Was going to try it but I can't see an option for it in Lightoom.

Not a huge fan of the Smart Photo option tbh but I've tried some 48mp photos too.

The version of LR is Adobe Photoshop Lightroom v3.3. See attached image for screenshot.

Any thoughts / guidance would be good

Thanks Ro

When I shoot five image bracketing (AEB) on my Sony camera, I decide, on each set, whether to choose one or to use my HDR software to merge the five into one "perfect or at least much better" image. Hope this helps.

 

[Dale D]

When I shoot five image bracketing (AEB) on my Sony camera, I decide, on each set, whether to choose one or to use my HDR software to merge the five into one "perfect or at least much better" image. Hope this helps.

It is like I previously have described. I set my Nikon D750 on AEB, select options of number of shots (I usually do 5 shots) and f/stop separation between shots. I usually select 1 stop or 1/2 stop . I take those 5 images into Photoshop (Bridge). In Bridge, I select all (CTRL+A), and then right click on any one off the images. A menu appears. One of the choices is "Merge to HDR." I hit that and let the program do the work. The final image is then brought from ACR into Photoshop for further editing.

 

[Ron Caballero CAP]

It is like I previously have described. I set my Nikon D750 on AEB, select options of number of shots (I usually do 5 shots) and f/stop separation between shots. I usually select 1 stop or 1/2 stop . I take those 5 images into Photoshop (Bridge). In Bridge, I select all (CTRL+A), and then right click on any one off the images. A menu appears. One of the choices is "Merge to HDR." I hit that and let the program do the work. The final image is then brought from ACR into Photoshop for further editing.

I have that option, but find that Photomatic Pro gives me more options.

 

[brett8883]

Regardless of what Adobe says, if the image has high dynamic range (e.g.: very dark areas, and very light areas), I will shoot anywhere from 3 to 5 images. Photoshop now does such a great job with this its is really easy to load them into the ACR (Adobe Camera Raw), right click and merge to HDR, then edit the final result.

As an example, I am thinking of an image such as shooting inside a dark house with a window showing a beautiful view. I want the details inside the house, as well as the details outside the window. This could easily be a 3 to 4 stop difference.

Look I’m trying to show you the optimum way to it. I understand that you can do it different ways and get decent results but I’d rather teach people how to do it the best possible way rather than a less than optimal way.

In your example with details inside the house and outside the house with a 3-4 stop difference between inside and outside you’d only need 3 photos: -2,0, and +2 there’s your 4 stops. You don’t need to have every stop between your indoor and outdoor areas accounted for and certainly not every 1/2 stop which is crazy.

The reason you might take a 5 photo 1 stop interval AEB is so you can decide later if you really only need two stops in your HDR, in which case merge photos -1 with +1, or if you really do need four stops in which case do -2,0, and +2. Anything more than that and you are just subjecting your photo to artifacting unnecessarily.

 

[Dale D]

I have that option, but find that Photomatic Pro gives me more options.

I have used that and it is just fine too

 

[hiflyer201]

Tired of clicking on like...I'M really enjoying the heck out of this thread

 

[Meta4]

HDR is something that is very appealing the first time you see it.
But it's overused and often overdone..
The best HDR doesn't look like it's HDR at all.

Here's what's most useful about AEB for me:

I shoot brackets of three when I'm shooting subjects which can be tricky for metering (whiich is most of the time).
The white parts and bow wave can easily be burnt out in bright sun.
But shooting brackets, I have a couple options to maximise my chances of an acceptable shot, particularly with a fast moving subject that I can't do again if I miss the first time.

 

[brett8883]

Use HDR as sparingly as possible.

HDR is something that is very appealing the first time you see it.
But it's overused and often overdone..
The best HDR doesn't look like it's HDR at all.

Here's what's most useful about AEB for me:

I shoot brackets of three when I'm shooting subjects which can be tricky for metering (whiich is most of the time).
The white parts and bow wave can easily be burnt out in bright sun.
But shooting brackets, I have a couple options to maximise my chances of an acceptable shot, particularly with a fast moving subject that I can't do again if I miss the first time.

i totally agree! HDRs shouldn’t look like HDRs. If you can tell a photo is HDR it isn’t done right.

 

[Dale D]

Use HDR as sparingly as possible.

i totally agree! HDRs shouldn’t look like HDRs. If you can tell a photo is HDR it isn’t done right.

We used to say that most of the older HDR's looked "cartoonish." E.g.: exaggerated colors. If it doesn't;t look natural, then it is a bad image.

 

[RonanCork]

The way you are doing it can often be the best way to do it.

For high dynamic range scenes you can select all the bracketed photos and right click and select “Merge to HDR”. Best practice is to only use this method if it is really necessary because even done perfectly you still bring some softness into the frame and honestly most of the time people overuse this and make their photos look like junk.

Lots of people merge 5 photos and they seem to be happy with the results but it’s my opinion that you should use no more than 3 and 2 is usually plenty.

Also stop using that ND filter for photography. it’s working against what you want to get sharp crisp photos.

Hey,

Was posting a similar thread recently and just realized I had posted this thread last year.

When you said stop using that ND filter for photography. it’s working against what you want to get sharp crisp photos - can you go into detail? - as I never realized this. I had the ND filter on my drone (now an Air2S in fact as I sold my MA2 last month) as I was shooting video and didn't bother to take it off.

I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts.

Thanks Ro

 

[Meta4]

When you said stop using that ND filter for photography. it’s working against what you want to get sharp crisp photos - can you go into detail?

All the ND filter does is to reduce the light, preventing (a lot) from getting to the sensor.
That's great if you have a particular need to force a very slow shutter speed (pretty rare with drone photography) and can be a real problem with general photography.
The ND filter does nothing at all to "improve" the look of your image, it doesn't change the colour, contrast or anything else.
It just stops a lot of light from getting through.
How much?
AN ND16 filter cuts 94% of the light.
An ND32 cuts 97%
If you are shooting stills with a drone, don't do it with an ND filter.

 

[RonanCork]

All the ND filter does is to reduce the light, preventing (a lot) from getting to the sensor.
That's great if you have a particular need to force a very slow shutter speed (pretty rare with drone photography) and can be a real problem with general photography.
The ND filter does nothing at all to "improve" the look of your image, it doesn't change the colour, contrast or anything else.
It just stops a lot of light from getting through.
How much?
AN ND16 filter cuts 94% of the light.
An ND32 cuts 97%
If you are shooting stills with a drone, don't do it with an ND filter.

Thanks for that Meta4 and others. Really appreciate the details feeback guys
Thanks Ro

 

[Dale D]

Thanks for that Meta4 and others. Really appreciate the details feeback guys
Thanks Ro

I totally agree that still images are best taken without a neutral density filter. ND filters are used to create motion blur in videos and timelapse photography, but they compromise the light reaching the sensor. It is, of course, impossible to do a combined video,and take still pictures on the same flight using an ND filter. You would have to land the drone, remove the filter, and go back out for the unfiltered stills. Hardly anyone would do that. So in my filming, I usually just leave the ND16 filter on the lens for both video and stills, fully understanding the liability of getting a softer still image. They are still acceptable as demonstrated by this image (Nubble Lighthouse,Maine). This was taken with Mavic 2 Pro and ND 16 filter. Processed DNG in Photoshop.

 

[brett8883]

Hey,

Was posting a similar thread recently and just realized I had posted this thread last year.

When you said stop using that ND filter for photography. it’s working against what you want to get sharp crisp photos - can you go into detail? - as I never realized this. I had the ND filter on my drone (now an Air2S in fact as I sold my MA2 last month) as I was shooting video and didn't bother to take it off.

I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts.

Thanks Ro

I would just add that the drone is always moving, it’s vibrating and drifts to some degree. Also things are moving in the shot wether it be clouds or leaves etc. So the longer your shutter is open the more blur will be introduced.

Having said that there’s some upper limit of sharpness possible due to the resolution of the sensor and the resolving power of the lens so if it is actually noticeable depends on the shutter speed.

A photo taken at 1/8000 isn’t going to be any sharper than one at 1/4000 I’m just saying set yourself up for optimal conditions by controlling the things that are in your power to control.

For instance a photo taken at 1/500 without an ND will likely be plenty sharp but the same photo taken with an ND 16 would require a shutter speed of 1/30 and will almost certainly introduce some blur.