ND Filters For Dummies

[Chaosrider]

I'm looking for a beginner set of filters to check out for my Minis.

Would this be a reasonable choice?

https://www.amazon.com/Filter-Compatible-Accessories-Coated-Filters/dp/B08S6XDGKN/ref=asc_df_B08S6XDGKN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=507895870747&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9001596419119127198&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030905&hvtargid=pla-1209923498776&psc=1

Other suggestions welcome! But I don't want to spend a lot more than this.

Thx,

MM...FPV?

 

[Ty Pilot]

High quality ND filters are truly Neutral and don't induce a color shift to the image. Some cheaper ND filters may introduce a slight color cast but can usually be put right in post. Bad ND filters have a heavy color cast and may even slightly distort the image.

I looked at the reviews from the page in your link and did not see one mention of any of this, so for 37 bucks it is probably worth it. I did see a complaint that the Circular Polarizer was actually fixed and non-rotatable but for the most part CP's are not totally effective on a drone unless you line the shot up on the ground, and only fly in that direction.

I like that you get an ND 32 as on bright days sometime a 16 is not enough. All in all, if I had a Mini 2 I might give this set a try.

 

[ThatBeardedDroneGuy]

For the price, and with Amazon's return policy, it's probably a safe gamble. I went with Freewell and they're pretty nice.

I went out to the beach today and ended up shooting a 32. I thought I'd need a 64 but it was too dark.

 

[MAvic_South_Oz]

SunnyLife have usually got a good wrap here on the forum, if you want to scroll through some of these threads / posts, they are certainly mentioned quite a lot.

Search results for query: sunnylife nd

I like this set, as said, the ND32 isn't often included in many ND sets, and is useful if you must fly on a bright sunny day during the peak and shoulder times of daylight (a few hours before / after noon, especially summer).

I also like that the MCUV is included, leave this on all the time for blue / early golden hour videography, and for photography.
I'll put an ND4 on once the sun pops up, but usually only when changing a battery, otherwise next flight, or might be ready for an ND8/16.

Of course you will use ND filters for video motion blur, and this kit doesn't leave a lot of room for creative photography use in general.

I have an ND64 in my old NISI set, have only used it once to see if I could get some tidal / water blur, but wasn't really effective.
One day I might be filming a noon-ish white sand beach, or snow on a sunny day, then it will likely be handy.

Note, that CPL should rotate, otherwise it would not be very useful !

 

[vindibona1]

As far as the selection and price it looks better than most. UV and CPL filters are pretty much useless. But the collection of pure ND filters is pretty good. Most cheap kits don’t include ND32 or 64, which IMO would be the most valuable.

But as others have said, the quality of build, the accuracy and neutrality might be jeopardized. But there is no way to know without trying them out.

One of the things about the use or non-use of ND filters is that they make the biggest difference when flying close to things, not when far away. I’ve debated getting filters for my Mini 2 but couldn’t justify the expense, probably because if I need that pure “cinematic” shot I also have the option of flying with my M2P…. Which I do have both ND and gradient filters for.

Having said that, for $37 it’s not a big deal. But I think, while a bit more expensive, were I to buy filters for my Mini 2 I’d be looking at the Skyreat brand. That is the brand of ND’s that I have for my Mavic2P and metered through a calibrated light meter, they were all within 1/10th F stop all the way across the board and no tinting that I could discern. Off the top of my head I think a set including the ND64 filter runs around $60 (I’lll check later). If you can return the filters if you don’t like them, then the $37 is a good bet… But make sure you won’t need the ND64 as you might end up spending another $20 to get it separately, which challenges the value of the kit you’re looking at.

 

[MAvic_South_Oz]

UV and CPL filters are pretty much useless.

I agree regarding the practical use of PL filters on a drone, but can you elaborate on your negative view on the MCUV ?

I've found they can really make photos / video colour pop, they can reduce problem air pollution / haze, don't affect shutter speed (no light to lens shift), and the main reason good protection for the camera lens.

There is some feedback they can help reduce lens flare, but I admit I rarely shoot into the sun if possible.

 

[ThatBeardedDroneGuy]

In the still photography world, I always keep a UV filter on every single lens. Also a good layer of protection for the lens glass.

 

[Chaosrider]

It's on it's way!

You guys are great, thx!



MM-FPV?

 

[vindibona1]

I agree regarding the practical use of PL filters on a drone, but can you elaborate on your negative view on the MCUV ?

I've found they can really make photos / video colour pop, they can reduce problem air pollution / haze, don't affect shutter speed (no light to lens shift), and the main reason good protection for the camera lens.

There is some feedback they can help reduce lens flare, but I admit I rarely shoot into the sun if possible.

All UV filters are not created equal. I've been photographing professionally for many decades and found that at best (for the most part) UV filters offer lens protection, but also putting another piece of glass over a lens can also cause image degradation. While I forget the brand now, there was only one UV filter that I ever used that helped improve the image... and those cost over $100 each (even back 20 years ago). Light fog or haze is easily dealt with in post with a little added contrast.

Personally, if you want better contrast I think a lens hood, helping to eliminate flare is a better solution than a UV filter. Besides, on something like a Mini 1/2 a lens hood can protect the gimbal from head on crashes. I believe a hood saved me at least twice now from expensive gimbal repair.

 

[Chaosrider]

All UV filters are not created equal. I've been photographing professionally for many decades and found that at best (for the most part) UV filters offer lens protection, but also putting another piece of glass over a lens can also cause image degradation. While I forget the brand now, there was only one UV filter that I ever used that helped improve the image... and those cost over $100 each (even back 20 years ago). Light fog or haze is easily dealt with in post with a little added contrast.

Personally, if you want better contrast I think a lens hood, helping to eliminate flare is a better solution than a UV filter. Besides, on something like a Mini 1/2 a lens hood can protect the gimbal from head on crashes. I believe a hood saved me at least twice now from expensive gimbal repair.

My main motivation for deciding to check out filters is to tame some of the intensely bright days we get here. I live at the boundary of a pine forest and a desert. Most of the soil around my house is decomposed granite, and it can get seriously bright.

Sometimes the camera gets confused between the dark green pine trees, and the bright white soil. Never mind the issues when there's snow on the ground, but that time is passing for this season.

Thx,

MM-FPV!

 

[Dale D]

High quality ND filters are truly Neutral and don't induce a color shift to the image. Some cheaper ND filters may introduce a slight color cast but can usually be put right in post. Bad ND filters have a heavy color cast and may even slightly distort the image.

I looked at the reviews from the page in your link and did not see one mention of any of this, so for 37 bucks it is probably worth it. I did see a complaint that the Circular Polarizer was actually fixed and non-rotatable but for the most part CP's are not totally effective on a drone unless you line the shot up on the ground, and only fly in that direction.

I like that you get an ND 32 as on bright days sometime a 16 is not enough. All in all, if I had a Mini 2 I might give this set a try.

For what it's worth- one of the reasons I sold my Mini 2 (bought as a temporary drone for travel in possibly prohibited country) was that it simply would not hold any filter. Believe me, I am as handy as anyone, and no matter whatever I tried I could not get the filter to stay on. It was a Freewell.

Dale

 

[Ty Pilot]

For what it's worth- one of the reasons I sold my Mini 2 (bought as a temporary drone for travel in possibly prohibited country) was that it simply would not hold any filter. Believe me, I am as handy as anyone, and no matter whatever I tried I could not get the filter to stay on. It was a Freewell.

Dale

Good to know. I currently don't own a Mini but was just giving my thoughts on the set that the OP mentioned. It will be interesting to hear his thoughts when he get them.

 

[Dale D]

Good to know. I currently don't own a Mini but was just giving my thoughts on the set that the OP mentioned. It will be interesting to hear his thoughts when he get them.

Not to belabor the point but there are very few places that the filter can actually attach to the lens/gimbal assembly. There are two tiny prongs that grasp the vent slots at the back of the gimbal but any touching of the filter will dislodge it immediately. I give the designers a very poor grade for this stupid design. I kept imagining that my expensive filter would just fall off at 200 feet in the air. And go and try to find that! So I never put it on and finally gave it away with the drone when I sold it off after my travels.

Dale

 

[ThatBeardedDroneGuy]

For what it's worth- one of the reasons I sold my Mini 2 (bought as a temporary drone for travel in possibly prohibited country) was that it simply would not hold any filter. Believe me, I am as handy as anyone, and no matter whatever I tried I could not get the filter to stay on. It was a Freewell.

Dale

Weird. I use Freewell filters and have never had an issue. No gimbal shake. No falling off. In my experience, they go on/off easily and work great. Sorry you didn't have a similar experience.

 

[Faster]

I have a Freewell UV filter installed on my Mini2 just for lens protection, never had a problem with it in more than 100 flying hours.

 

[Chaosrider]

For what it's worth- one of the reasons I sold my Mini 2 (bought as a temporary drone for travel in possibly prohibited country) was that it simply would not hold any filter. Believe me, I am as handy as anyone, and no matter whatever I tried I could not get the filter to stay on. It was a Freewell.

Dale

Well, that's not encouraging. I'm seriously not handy. I wouldn't even consider getting them until I saw a demo of how to put them on, which looked handy-simple enough even for me.

We'll see! They're on their way, and I'll report back with the results.



MM-FPV!

 

[Chaosrider]

Not to belabor the point but there are very few places that the filter can actually attach to the lens/gimbal assembly. There are two tiny prongs that grasp the vent slots at the back of the gimbal but any touching of the filter will dislodge it immediately. I give the designers a very poor grade for this stupid design. I kept imagining that my expensive filter would just fall off at 200 feet in the air. And go and try to find that! So I never put it on and finally gave it away with the drone when I sold it off after my travels.

Dale

Well, at 37 bucks for the lot of them, if it falls off, it falls off!

A comparatively cheap experiment in the Drone Realm!



MM-FPV!

 

[MAvic_South_Oz]

I would avoid flying sports mode with those fragile type fitting filters.
Recall when I first got NDs for my Spark, same sort of weaker type fitting than the round push on type, and flying sports mode one day to finish up a short cinematic flight, threw it around quite aggressively then came down and hovered about 50m away probably 10m alt, and literally saw my ND4 fall off !
You think I could find that sucker on low mowed parkland lawn type grass ?? (No.)
Never had a problem flying normal P mode with them on the Spark.

 

[RussOnTheRoad]

As far as the selection and price it looks better than most. UV and CPL filters are pretty much useless. But the collection of pure ND filters is pretty good. Most cheap kits don’t include ND32 or 64, which IMO would be the most valuable.

But as others have said, the quality of build, the accuracy and neutrality might be jeopardized. But there is no way to know without trying them out.

One of the things about the use or non-use of ND filters is that they make the biggest difference when flying close to things, not when far away. I’ve debated getting filters for my Mini 2 but couldn’t justify the expense, probably because if I need that pure “cinematic” shot I also have the option of flying with my M2P…. Which I do have both ND and gradient filters for.

Having said that, for $37 it’s not a big deal. But I think, while a bit more expensive, were I to buy filters for my Mini 2 I’d be looking at the Skyreat brand. That is the brand of ND’s that I have for my Mavic2P and metered through a calibrated light meter, they were all within 1/10th F stop all the way across the board and no tinting that I could discern. Off the top of my head I think a set including the ND64 filter runs around $60 (I’lll check later). If you can return the filters if you don’t like them, then the $37 is a good bet… But make sure you won’t need the ND64 as you might end up spending another $20 to get it separately, which challenges the value of the kit you’re looking at.

I am curious about your statement that distance plays a role in the efficacy on ND filters. How would you explain that?

 

[vindibona1]

I am curious about your statement that distance plays a role in the efficacy on ND filters. How would you explain that?

I'll try to give it a go to explain.

When you are far away from a subject, like up in the sky away from the ground, that which is far away moves very slowly in the frame and is perceived as "natural" almost regardless of shutter speed. But when you are close to a subject, as you might be a few feet off the ground, the changes in the subject matter change very quickly. In cinema video, subjects/object that are in close proximity to the moving camera, need some blur to the "look" to look natural. So when you're further from those subjects/objects the human perception doesn't need the blurring to look natural. So while you can still use your ND filter and 2x fps shutter speed ratio at distance, it only matters if you're passing close to things where the blur is required for a more natural perceived experience.

I'm sure someone can explain it better than I've done.