To be honest I wouldn't even consider removing the props for transportation for two reasons
1) It's not designed for this and you will almost certainly loose some thread locking compound. At a guess, as with the MM, you are meant to use new screws whenever you replace a pair of prop blades.
2) given how tiny the screws are I am very wary (scared) of cross threading them when refitting them.
That said you are probably committed now, the big problem is how due you exert enough force down the axis of the screwdriver to stop it ramping out of the cross head whilst not possibly damaging the motor or the drone's arms. Does the screwdriver have a hexagon on its handle such that you could fit a spanner to it?
One bizarre thing that has occasionally worked for me in connection with a screw with a damaged cross is to try tightening screw by the tiniest amount to see if you can break the stiction holding it. Tightening should be making the screwdriver engage with undamaged flanks of the cross.
Is the screwdiver's cross still in good shape?
I have one idea but it would entail sacrificing the props to expose the screw i.e. cut away the prop hubs and then use pliers or a vice to grip and loosen the screws one at a time .
BUT BEFORE you try that wait and see if any one screams blue murder about having steel tools near the motor rotor. I honestly have no idea if it would be detrimental to the rotor's magnetism.
You would also need to tape over any and all opens around the motor to prevent debris getting it.
1) It's not designed for this and you will almost certainly loose some thread locking compound. At a guess, as with the MM, you are meant to use new screws whenever you replace a pair of prop blades.
2) given how tiny the screws are I am very wary (scared) of cross threading them when refitting them.
That said you are probably committed now, the big problem is how due you exert enough force down the axis of the screwdriver to stop it ramping out of the cross head whilst not possibly damaging the motor or the drone's arms. Does the screwdriver have a hexagon on its handle such that you could fit a spanner to it?
One bizarre thing that has occasionally worked for me in connection with a screw with a damaged cross is to try tightening screw by the tiniest amount to see if you can break the stiction holding it. Tightening should be making the screwdriver engage with undamaged flanks of the cross.
Is the screwdiver's cross still in good shape?
I have one idea but it would entail sacrificing the props to expose the screw i.e. cut away the prop hubs and then use pliers or a vice to grip and loosen the screws one at a time .
BUT BEFORE you try that wait and see if any one screams blue murder about having steel tools near the motor rotor. I honestly have no idea if it would be detrimental to the rotor's magnetism.
You would also need to tape over any and all opens around the motor to prevent debris getting it.
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Thanks so much for the reply! Im traveling right now. I just got the drone two days back. I have to take a good look at how the propellers are mounted to get exactly what you suggested. And I guess the screwdriver's still got it good. I would definitely try the tightening idea within limits.
I could only agree to those two reasons not to remove the propellers. I read about how it's tightened using some threadlock. However the youtube video I saw made me think it's gonna be an easy job.
Thanks again! Will let you know if I could get it out.
I could only agree to those two reasons not to remove the propellers. I read about how it's tightened using some threadlock. However the youtube video I saw made me think it's gonna be an easy job.
Thanks again! Will let you know if I could get it out.
It's just the slightest of tightenings once it moves, if it moves, that should be enough.
One other solution has just come to mind, it is probably safer and better than the previous method.
I assume the screws unscrew anti clockwise, if so put the blades in the position shown in the attached. 'Jam' or lock the a blade's hub to its screw then turn the blade anti clockwise.
Methods of jamming, small slivers of wood (from say matches) jammed down between the outer edge of the screw's head and the inside of the hub. The gap may be too small for that to work. If that proves to be the case then place a small, note small, bead of glue over the above gap, (small because you do not want the glue to penetrate so far the it reaches the motor's rotor) and allow it to sink into the above gap or work it into the gap, then let it set.
It might grip the plastic of the blade hub and the metal of the screw enough such that turning the blade anti clockwise will break the screws' stiction.
Try the wood sliver first because it is possible you can, once the screw is loose, remove the slivers and unscrew the screw via normal means. If you end up gluing and the gluing works, I doubt you would be able to free the blade from the screw so cut one blade off at its hub/root then unscrew that screw. That should leave the remaining blade room to swing in complete circles.
Writing that also brought to mind a variation on the method of post #2. It depends on how strong the plastic of the blade hub is but if it is not ridiculously strong it might be possible to crush the hub to the screw with molegrips/visegrips or appropriate pliers such that the hub grips the screw enough to turn the molegrips etc anti clockwise and break the stiction. If so you could then unscrew the screw using the screwdriver.
Again I would wait and see into anyone complains about using steel tools near the rotor.
If you use the latter method I would consider the blades scrap.
I assume the screws unscrew anti clockwise, if so put the blades in the position shown in the attached. 'Jam' or lock the a blade's hub to its screw then turn the blade anti clockwise.
Methods of jamming, small slivers of wood (from say matches) jammed down between the outer edge of the screw's head and the inside of the hub. The gap may be too small for that to work. If that proves to be the case then place a small, note small, bead of glue over the above gap, (small because you do not want the glue to penetrate so far the it reaches the motor's rotor) and allow it to sink into the above gap or work it into the gap, then let it set.
It might grip the plastic of the blade hub and the metal of the screw enough such that turning the blade anti clockwise will break the screws' stiction.
Try the wood sliver first because it is possible you can, once the screw is loose, remove the slivers and unscrew the screw via normal means. If you end up gluing and the gluing works, I doubt you would be able to free the blade from the screw so cut one blade off at its hub/root then unscrew that screw. That should leave the remaining blade room to swing in complete circles.
Writing that also brought to mind a variation on the method of post #2. It depends on how strong the plastic of the blade hub is but if it is not ridiculously strong it might be possible to crush the hub to the screw with molegrips/visegrips or appropriate pliers such that the hub grips the screw enough to turn the molegrips etc anti clockwise and break the stiction. If so you could then unscrew the screw using the screwdriver.
Again I would wait and see into anyone complains about using steel tools near the rotor.
If you use the latter method I would consider the blades scrap.
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FlyBackOU812
Well-Known Member
FlyBackOU812
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I almost did the same thing but b4 I reamed it out i got me a nice quality one. Look for one that has 3 detachable heads with 3 different size. Mini philip heads... take that one with you so you can match up the size.mthose ones they give you suck
FlyBackOU812
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Need help in unscrewing propeller
- Thread starteranjoeaj
- Start dateYesterday at 4:03 PM
- Tagsunscrew
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anjoeaj
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JoinedJan 15, 2021Messages2Reactions0Age31LocationDublin
Hello guys!
I'm new here! I was unscrewing the propellers on my mini 2(was packing for an overseas trip). I could unscrew all but the rear left one doesn't turn a bit. The screw head started wearing off. Any tips on unscrewing this one?
Thanks in advance!
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PhiliusFoggg
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JoinedJul 24, 2019Messages2,281Reactions1,704Age50
To be honest I wouldn't even consider removing the props for transportation for two reasons
1) It's not designed for this and you will almost certainly loose some thread locking compound. At a guess, as with the MM, you are meant to use new screws whenever you replace a pair of prop blades.
2) given how tiny the screws are I am very wary (scared) of cross threading them when refitting them.
That said you are probably committed now, the big problem is how due you exert enough force down the axis of the screwdriver to stop it ramping out of the cross head whilst not possibly damaging the motor or the drone's arms. Does the screwdriver have a hexagon on its handle such that you could fit a spanner to it?
One bizarre thing that has occasionally worked for me in connection with a screw with a damaged cross is to try tightening screw by the tiniest amount to see if you can break the stiction holding it. Tightening should be making the screwdriver engage with undamaged flanks of the cross.
Is the screwdiver's cross still in good shape?
I have one idea but it would entail sacrificing the props to expose the screw i.e. cut away the prop hubs and then use pliers or a vice to grip and loosen the screws one at a time .
BUT BEFORE you try that wait and see if any one screams blue murder about having steel tools near the motor rotor. I honestly have no idea if it would be detrimental to the rotor's magnetism.
You would also need to tape over any and all opens around the motor to prevent debris getting it.
Last edited: Yesterday at 4:47 PM
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anjoeaj
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JoinedJan 15, 2021Messages2Reactions0Age31LocationDublin
Thanks so much for the reply! Im traveling right now. I just got the drone two days back. I have to take a good look at how the propellers are mounted to get exactly what you suggested. And I guess the screwdriver's still got it good. I would definitely try the tightening idea within limits.
I could only agree to those two reasons not to remove the propellers. I read about how it's tightened using some threadlock. However the youtube video I saw made me think it's gonna be an easy job.
Thanks again! Will let you know if I could get it out.
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PhiliusFoggg
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It's just the slightest of tightenings once it moves, if it moves, that should be enough.
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PhiliusFoggg
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Premium Pilot
JoinedJul 24, 2019Messages2,281Reactions1,704Age50
One other solution has just come to mind, it is probably safer and better than the previous method.
I assume the screws unscrew anti clockwise, if so put the blades in the position shown in the attached. 'Jam' or lock the a blade's hub to its screw then turn the blade anti clockwise.
Methods of jamming, small slivers of wood (from say matches) jammed down between the outer edge of the screw's head and the inside of the hub. The gap may be too small for that to work. If that proves to be the case then place a small, note small, bead of glue over the above gap, (small because you do not want the glue to penetrate so far the it reaches the motor's rotor) and allow it to sink into the above gap or work it into the gap, then let it set.
It might grip the plastic of the blade hub and the metal of the screw enough such that turning the blade anti clockwise will break the screws' stiction.
Try the wood sliver first because it is possible you can, once the screw is loose, remove the slivers and unscrew the screw via normal means. If you end up gluing and the gluing works, I doubt you would be able to free the blade from the screw so cut one blade off at its hub/root then unscrew that screw. That should leave the remaining blade room to swing in complete circles.
Writing that also brought to mind a variation on the method of post #2. It depends on how strong the plastic of the blade hub is but if it is not ridiculously strong it might be possible to crush the hub to the screw with molegrips/visegrips or appropriate pliers such that the hub grips the screw enough to turn the molegrips etc anti clockwise and break the stiction. If so you could then unscrew the screw using the screwdriver.
Again I would wait and see into anyone complains about using steel tools near the rotor.
If you use the latter method I would consider the blades scrap.
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FlyBackOU812
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JoinedMar 28, 2020Messages59Reactions0Age54LocationVa Beach Va- 12 minutes ago
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To FlyBackOU12 ahh let me rephrase my original question.
You said "get you a quality mini , for your Mini".
What are "mini" and "Mini"?
If I went into a hardware store and asked for a "mini" or a "Mini" the response would be "mini what". And remember that in addition to the suggestion to get a 'mini something' the thread concerns a presumably entirely different sort of mini i.e. the DJI Mini 2.
There is no need to screen capture the thread as an answer and if fact I am none the wiser for the screen capture of the portion of the thread that preceded my question.
I did however notice your subsequent post mentioning "Mini philip heads." so I will assume that your first post relates to buying either good quality screwdriver bits or good quality screwdrivers, am I correct? If so might not " I meant screwdriver bits" etc. have been or be, a better answer than that screen capture?
You said "get you a quality mini , for your Mini".
What are "mini" and "Mini"?
If I went into a hardware store and asked for a "mini" or a "Mini" the response would be "mini what". And remember that in addition to the suggestion to get a 'mini something' the thread concerns a presumably entirely different sort of mini i.e. the DJI Mini 2.
There is no need to screen capture the thread as an answer and if fact I am none the wiser for the screen capture of the portion of the thread that preceded my question.
I did however notice your subsequent post mentioning "Mini philip heads." so I will assume that your first post relates to buying either good quality screwdriver bits or good quality screwdrivers, am I correct? If so might not " I meant screwdriver bits" etc. have been or be, a better answer than that screen capture?
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FlyBackOU812
Well-Known Member
These forums confuse me. I realized after making my first comment yall were full conversations past that I had replied. Chatting in these forums are brand new to me me but im starting to learn it more and more as I go. Should have seen me couple weeks ago on my first attempt lol. People must have thought I was on hard drugs ? im not sure what you mean by screen capture but im assuming i did something by accident. Once I realized I was far behind conversation I scrolled down and tried V to find the end but then I went to far I thought and tried to back up so then I was trying to fix that screw up and I was just clicking on icons that I had no idea what they were for but I was trying to help belive it or not. Then I got frustrated so Elvis left the building for a bit until now
FlyBackOU812
Well-Known Member
In order to understand my delima itvwould take a lotvof explaining for me and a lot of understanding for you you. But just know I'm a very good handy man ii have good understanding of how everything around me works much more so than most. With the only exception being computers and technology and tha because of my age. Lim 54 years old so I never learned how to use them. When I left high-school there was no internet or Facebook or social media of any kind. So you'd have to first be able to understand how that was like for me. Once I was out of high school I wen straight into construction and thats what I've done all my life so I never needed to learn it. My first dealing with computers or even a keyboard was in 2011 when I got my first smart phone. So my only knowledge of computers is all app based technology. Right now I couldntvturn on and start up a real computer. So if you can imagine how hard all this is for me then that will tell you how much I was going through just to help you
Ok, if you look at the attached photo of my computer screen it shows two button if find very useful, the text the goes up in a post is rarely what I type, and thus needs editing. That's my story and I am sticking to it.
You should see the same under your posts, On an android phone the edit it in the 3 dot menu below the relevant post near the lower left conrner
You should see the same under your posts, On an android phone the edit it in the 3 dot menu below the relevant post near the lower left conrner
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FlyBackOU812
Well-Known Member
I'm not even sure if you're talking to me or not lol. If so, im not understanding what you mean. I see edit and delete but I I also see something should metal and the motors but im not seeing anyone else you're talking to lol
FlyBackOU812
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hiflyer201
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An example of what happens when two people use the same thread for somewhat different problems/situations.... no one can tell who’s responding to who.... just saying. 
KB9Radio
Well-Known Member
Personally, I would lock on to it with a vise-grip (locking pliers) and unscrew it. Then replace it with a new set of props & screws. Also, order a new set of miniature screw drivers to avoid the problem in the future. I don't have a mini, but judging by the photos some people have posted, it looks like a small vise-grip would turn it right out of there.
FlyBackOU812
Well-Known Member
I'm not to sure telling someone to use vice grips to grip the motor housing is sond advice not knowing how mechanically inclined said person is. There are plenty of other ways I think of that would be far safer than that on the housing
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