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Mini SE New drone owner starting out.

Max Headroom

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Cumbria U.K
I have only flown the drone on three days as the weather has been very wet and way too windy (usual weather in the U.K) on the days when there was less wind i managed to get some practice in and some footage to play with and i was surprised how it coped in the gusts of wind being so small and light.

I have never done any editing before but thanks to a couple of members who suggested CapCut i am now using the desktop version.

I am still getting used to the controls so the video does stutter occasionally.

https://www.capcut.com/

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Wet in the UK? Say it isn't so! 🤣

If you aren't already, try flying in Cine mode. It can help make the video smoother as it reduces some of the jerkiness. Otherwise, it looks like you off to a good start!
 
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Not bad Max. Just work on smoothing out your turns.
 
Thanks, i was running in cinema i guess 2.7k at 30fps is not ideal even in cinema i might try 1080 in 60fps and see it it helps.

I am running a video through Capcut as i didn't know it has an option to stabilise.
 
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Wet in the UK? Say it isn't so! 🤣
It's not so ! Lovely sunshine today (at least down South), and fairly chilled winds no less ! If I didn't have so much footage backed up awaiting edit I would be out there in it flying now !

I have never done any editing before but thanks to a couple of members who suggested CapCut i am now using the desktop version.
It's great that you are getting into the editing. I have some top tips on that subject, but first we gotta fix the inputs ;)

Cine mode is going to help a lot in slowing things down, and making yaws less jerky, but you should probably pop into your advanced gimbal settings and chill out the movement times / smoothing in there so that you get silky smooth camera tilts. Likewise you can adjust Yaw rates in Cine mode so that you don't jerk round the corners.

However, also consider adjusting rates for Normal mode too, which you need for when you are filming at the upper heights, where Cine Mode would be too slow. So there we just need to chill the yaws out again. In Sport mode we should leave them, so that we can instantly switch to a much more responsive mode for better control in emergencies.

On the day, we should try and fly straight lines and / or 'intentional' routes following prominent ground features for as much of the time as possible, and for as long as possible on each 'shot', before we turn, or correct direction etc, which will probably be an edit point later, as we don't want ANY of that correctional stuff in the final video... we can start following a tide-line, but the very second that camera jerks a bit to correct the course, that shot is dead, and needs cutting before it, hence the advice above...

And as time goes on, you will naturally become better at smoothing out your own inputs via the sticks - always try and 'fade in' to changes in inputs rather than just 'doing them' ! After a while you get really good at moving sticks like you are gliding them through treacle, which all but eliminates that jerky correctional stuff, and makes much more of your footage usable. And once those type of inputs become part of muscle memory your attention is more free to focus on shot design, and figuring out what are the best / most cinematic / interesting moves to make in any particular fly site...

1080 in 60fps
No that won't help. The problem with jerkiness is in the control settings and pilot inputs, not the frame rate of the camera. 60 FPS is only noticeably better for fast, low motion, or when you want to slow a clip down to half speed within a 30 FPS project with no loss of (time-based) resolution. If most of your footage is from on high and not racing around all over the place then 30 FPS will be enough, and anything more is just a waste of file size, disk space and upload time !
 
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Cine mode is going to help a lot in slowing things down, and making yaws less jerky, but you should probably pop into your advanced gimbal settings and chill out the movement times / smoothing in there so that you get silky smooth camera tilts. Likewise you can adjust Yaw rates in Cine mode so that you don't jerk round the corners.

Thanks for all the advice i will try it all the settings and see if it'll help.

I wasn't aware you could change gimbal settings on the Mini 2 SE i will have to look.
 
I myself am probably the worst drone photographer on the forum lol If I am trying to take a decent video I always revert back to CINE mode myself when I do take videos I use DaVinci to edit Its seems more complex BUT ther are plenty of tutorials on youtube to get you going.
It's not so ! Lovely sunshine today (at least down South), and fairly chilled winds no less ! If I didn't have so much footage backed up awaiting edit I would be out there in it flying now !


It's great that you are getting into the editing. I have some top tips on that subject, but first we gotta fix the inputs ;)

Cine mode is going to help a lot in slowing things down, and making yaws less jerky, but you should probably pop into your advanced gimbal settings and chill out the movement times / smoothing in there so that you get silky smooth camera tilts. Likewise you can adjust Yaw rates in Cine mode so that you don't jerk round the corners.

However, also consider adjusting rates for Normal mode too, which you need for when you are filming at the upper heights, where Cine Mode would be too slow. So there we just need to chill the yaws out again. In Sport mode we should leave them, so that we can instantly switch to a much more responsive mode for better control in emergencies.

On the day, we should try and fly straight lines and / or 'intentional' routes following prominent ground features for as much of the time as possible, and for as long as possible on each 'shot', before we turn, or correct direction etc, which will probably be an edit point later, as we don't want ANY of that correctional stuff in the final video... we can start following a tide-line, but the very second that camera jerks a bit to correct the course, that shot is dead, and needs cutting before it, hence the advice above...


No that won't help. The problem with jerkiness is in the control settings and pilot inputs, not the frame rate of the camera. 60 FPS is only noticeably better for fast, low motion, or when you want to slow a clip down to half speed within a 30 FPS project with no loss of (time-based) resolution. If most of your footage is from on high and not racing around all over the place then 30 FPS will be enough, and anything more is just a waste of file size, disk space and upload time !
I know many Pros that are Drone videographers. Everyone has seen their work. What is described in the above post is how the professionals do it. They adjust their rates to overcome any bad tendencies they have while controlling by hand.
NOW--There are many other adjustments that are made. Many of these you cannot adjust with DJI Drones. Still if you are gonna want to take better videos, THIS is the best way to start....Start your research there!
 
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MORE ADJUSTING!!!
here you go! I think you can adjust these with a mini? this is an air 3 vid but the lesson is the same
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Could someone confirm this video posted here has the same stutter to rule out its not my PC that is causing the issues, thanks.

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Neither that video or the one you made above did any stuttering for me, but then I am on a bit of a monster PC for graphics. Your system may be struggling to playback that resolution and frame rate (50FPS) if it hasn't got a half decent graphics card in it... way to find out would be to step down the youtube playback resolution and see if it is smooth for you at any lesser data rate.
 
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Thanks I have changed the gimbal and yaw settings as suggested above and will give the video settings a try

I have edited the video to cut out the parts i do see and it now for me looks a lot better, could members have a look and let me know, thanks.

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Excellent work - not often that people are willing to re-edit to try and get a better result, so bonus points for perseverance, and, because of that approach, your video is getting better all the time...

Still a way to go though... let me try and explain.

First off, let's fix an easy one - lose the novelty pound-shop transitions. Watch any BBC or other broadcast quality documentary, and I guarantee you will not see a single one of those ! Outside of trendy pop video nonsense, there are only 3 types of transitions that anyone serious actually uses - the straight cut (or no transition at all), the fade in/out and the cross-dissolve. All others should go in the bin because they instantly reveal your amateur status if you choose them ;)

OK, now, still a couple of shots shouldn't be there at all; the slow rise whilst looking out to sea, complete with its sudden jerk toward the end), and then weirdly fast180 degree pan and then inexplicably back again 3 seconds later starting at about a minute in. Now, of course I do appreciate you were here to learn to fly as well as making video, so these moves are eminently forgivable but that is no reason to put them in your public videos ! :) Nothing wrong with that slow rise per se, except that what we are looking at is (forgive me) possibly the dullest example of sea and sky we have available to these shores ! :) That's not your fault of course, but again, you don't have to show it unless something good or visually interesting happens ! Other shots are good, and only warrant criticism for their lack of variation and the amount of repetition going on (see dull location) but you have minimised this by keeping the video short, so that's all to the good.

Let's address the music quickly now. Good points - you have chosen something that very much fits the feel of the location and weather on the day, doesn't attract too much attention to itself whilst not being musically uninteresting, and is consistent throughout in terms of equal loudness, which are all good things in terms of enhancing viewing experience. But your video is not doing the same sort of transitions that the music is. You almost hard cut (or at least VERY short fade) the video in at the start as the music fades in over a much longer period, for example. That is a clear indicator that the footage (and especially that first shot) should fade in at a similar speed as well. In fact the slow, evolving chordal shifts throughout the music virtually dictate that all the clips in this should be fading or crossfading to match it - that way it will feel less 'plonked on' and less like music and video are disparate elements. In later videos, when you've had a bit more XP we can go on to learn about selecting shots relating to the melodic and chordal shifts within the music, and timing cuts to the pulse within it (if one exists) but let's not worry about everything all at once hey ?! :)

And now we can offer a quick word or 2 about (colour) grading... am I right in assuming this hasn't had any ?
Don't know what color profile you filmed this in, but we are lacking sharpness, saturation, and we need a bit of levels correction. There are more than enough videos online that show you that, so I probably don't need to go into it further here.

So, lastly, Having eliminated most of the flight erraticism, the main thing that is opposing you now is that the location itself is actually quite dull, and with not much in the way of variation or wildly interesting things to see, which makes us have to work a lot harder as pilots to try and show the location in as many interesting and varied ways as possible and thereby produce an interesting video out of a dull location. For that reason I would use this video (which I wouldn't publish at all) as my 'scout flight' from which to plan some proper intentional shots next time you fly this location. Looking at your footage, we can plan exactly which shots we need next time. To my eyes these would include:

1. Long, fast, low tracking shot about 2m above wave level following the curve of the shoreline and moving directly along the breakers at 60 FPS so you can slow it down by half later in your 30 FPS project...
2. Slower but equally low tracking shot over the part where the sandy beach meets rocks and vegetation.
3. A travelling side-pan or back-drift shot along the cliff face, pointing obliquely at it.
4. A high pass over the beach with camera 90 degrees down, probably over the shoreline, and again at 60 FPS.
5. A VERY slow pan round from the expanse of the sea to the coastal village, possibly combined with a slow rise....
6. Following on from that a medium speed, medium height travelling shot over the village following the cliff-line curves, but with focus on the buildings and lush green vegetation.
7. A low(ish) fast travelling shot in from the sea towards the cliffs and rising to reveal the village

And then some B-roll stuff to cut into all that to further make it interesting.

1. Static camera parked on the beach filming the birds nice and close, both on the ground, and flying close to it
2. Locked off static shots of say wind blowing grasses / reeds or bits of slowed down ocean spray (if you could find any!)
3. 5 minutes of location soundtrack recorded stationary on the beach, to use in conjunction with music.
4. Perhaps film yourself (hand-held) walking a sandy path to the beach, or down some perilous steps - you know, to 'tell the story' of the day a bit more...

And when planned shots go wrong (as they inevitably will sometimes), and you find yourself inadvertently having to climb suddenly, or jerkily move to avoid something, just go back and start that shot again, and only use the one that worked in the final edit !

And that's probably more than enough whittering on from me today, so I will pause here until your next iteration, should you want to rise to the challenge !
 
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have edited the video to cut out the parts i do see and it now for me looks a lot better, could members have a look and let me know, thanks.
Hi Max,
Unfortunately your video is quite boring! Why is that? Well, most of the time you only show water and when there is something more interesting to see. Example: at 1:10 you pan far too quickly to the right, you see a village, then you pan far too quickly to the left to the sea. Then during a very long shot (from 1:22 to 2:00) you only see water. An interesting video should consist of different shots: long shots, medium shots, close-ups, medium close-ups and close-ups. Close-ups are the salt in the film soup! You should also always include ground shots to make the video more entertaining. This is the only way to make a video entertaining and worth watching! One more thing: you should get rid of these strange ‘cube fades’, because unfortunately they look pretty amateurish!
I hope you're not offended by my rather harsh criticism! Try to proceed as described above and you will see for yourself that it firstly looks much better and secondly is much more entertaining for the viewer!
cheers, Paul
Good Luck!👍😉
 
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Unfortunately your video is quite boring! Why is that? Well, most of the time you only show water and when there is something more interesting to see. Example: at 1:10 you pan far too quickly to the right, you see a village, then you pan far too quickly to the left to the sea. Then during a very long shot (from 1:22 to 2:00) you only see water.

This was only my third outing and i was still getting used to the controls on a dull and windy day, i haven't done any editing before so its all been (and still is) a steep learning curve.
 
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This was only my third outing and i was still getting used to the controls on a dull and windy day, i haven't done any editing before so its all been (and still is) a steep learning curve.
Of course it's not so easy at the beginning, you have to learn how to fly first and then you have to learn how to film! If you've never filmed before, it takes time to learn that too!
 
I think i may have found the problem i dont think the onboard graphics are up to the job -

View attachment 177280
Yep, that'll be it ! You want a dedicated nvidia GPU and something from the threadripper (or just below it) range of Ryzens for this sort of thing. but you can still practice your video editing techniques on 1080P vids until you are ready to move towards 4K...
 
I have taken some shots of some really nice places BUT My videos are terrible. I have friends that do this for a living and I hear things like "Whats the subject" OR "You know their supposed to be in focus." OR "Did You convert grandmas old videos to digital"? It takes time unless you have the talent and even then you gotta work at it. I myself will stick to the Flying side of things and just watch everybody elses stuff. Their are some Very talented Videographers on this forum they make videos I could only dream of making! Keep at it and hit those people up with questions.
You are gonna need a new Computer tho. If you want to pursue this as a hobby get a nice machine like stated above ( I use an Acer Hero 5 Laptop). IF you want to make a job OR career out of it then Get a MAC.
 
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I have taken some shots of some really nice places BUT My videos are terrible. I have friends that do this for a living and I hear things like "Whats the subject" OR "You know their supposed to be in focus." OR "Did You convert grandmas old videos to digital"?

Thanks for your honesty.

To be honest i am never got the drone with the intention of making brilliant videos that the whole world would want to watch i got it as i live in the countryside and near the Lake district and have always been fascinated by the view of places i have known for donkeys years when viewed from the air, take the first picture (taken from my blurry video) which is the coast road which goes from my town to the next passing a little village called Newbiggin people here may think its crap but i think its brilliant (yes i am easily pleased) the second shows the monument in our town in the distance (again from my video) with another closer up i will be videoing it when i have more confidence.




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