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Photo quality?

Possibly - very slight. At 100%. Not a real problem, and certainly not remotely "absolutely horrendous", which was how you described it earlier. Where are the examples of that?
Sure - here's an example of the 'false colour' moire that i've seen creeping in to example files I've looked at. Agreed, it is likely only going to be an issue on bright, strong contrast, highly patterned situations. Examples here are from the jpeg file (which has auto corrected the moire in camera) and the processed DNG. I'm sure it's something that will be fixed, either via full support in Camera RAW or some other improvement.
 

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Sure - here's an example of the 'false colour' moire that i've seen creeping in to example files I've looked at. Agreed, it is likely only going to be an issue on bright, strong contrast, highly patterned situations. Examples here are from the jpeg file (which has auto corrected the moire in camera) and the processed DNG. I'm sure it's something that will be fixed, either via full support in Camera RAW or some other improvement.
I'd like to take a look at the unprocessed DNG - is it available somewhere?
 
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Scrutinizing a 20MP image at 100% magnification on a typical monitor is similar to looking at a print roughly 5 feet wide from a few inches away. Many of the tiny imperfections you may see on your computer are not going to be visible in a print, especially at typical viewing distances, and most certainly not when viewing a web-size image.

Most cameras these days do not have AA filters and moiré is simply not an issue outside of some very specific scenarios. Extremely minor moiré visible at 100% using a raw converter that hasn't been updated for the M3 yet is a non-issue for 99.9% of users. Moiré is also not difficult to fix in post - fashion photographers in particular deal with this all the time. If you have some incredibly specific application where this is an issue, then buy something else.
 
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I examined his DNG files in Adobe Camera Raw 14. All of his images are captured at F2.8. The soft corners should be improved, if he stop down the aperture to F5.6.
Well, what we have seen in the past, that this is certainly is applicable in "traditional" SLR-/SLM photography with well-built lenses, but as with the M2P, changing the aperture higher than f 4 made the image overall softer and soft corners not sharper. It even was no real difference beyond f 2.8 most of the times. It may have changed with the bigger sensor, but I guess, we have to live with soft or shifted softness or test a bunch of them and decide which is best as a better lens formulare certainly would need more space. I returned my first M2P for ridiculous soft areas (thread might be here somewhere). My 2nd is ok, while the left corners a still a bit softer than the right.

Interesting to see more real world DNG and not from promotional or selected drones.
PS: Certainly the converters will gain in performance, but visible declining sharpness from centre to corners without any post-sharpening is something that should not be primarly corrected in software (if even possible to the same extent).;)
 
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I wish I can believe what you said - but my experience with the Mavic 3's main camera under different aperture tells otherwise. Although not a huge difference, the corner image quality under F5.6 is always sharper than F2.8. F8 is also sharper than F2.8, but less sharp than F5.6. F5.6 seems to be a sweat spot.

Mavic3Corner.jpg
 
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Well, what we have seen in the past, that this is certainly is applicable in "traditional" SLR-/SLM photography with well-built lenses, but as with the M2P, changing the aperture higher than f 4 made the image overall softer and soft corners not sharper. It even was no real difference beyond f 2.8 most of the times. It may have changed with the bigger sensor, but I guess, we have to live with soft or shifted softness or test a bunch of them and decide which is best as a better lens formulare certainly would need more space. I returned my first M2P for ridiculous soft areas (thread might be here somewhere). My 2nd is ok, while the left corners a still a bit softer than the right.

Interesting to see more real world DNG and not from promotional or selected drones.
PS: Certainly the converters will gain in performance, but visible declining sharpness from centre to corners without any post-sharpening is something that should not be primarly corrected in software (if even possible to the same extent).;)
Referring to your mention of software: I contacted Adobe support this morning, and while the rep didn't have an exact date for a M3 camera profile, he said that typically it is at least a month, from the date they get a copy of the camera, before a point update for ACR and LR adds a specific profile. He didn't know when they received a copy. So, that may be a stock answer, but we might have a few weeks before we get the profile. I guess there wouldn't be a profile for the telephoto camera since it only produces JPGs?
 
I wish I can believe what you said - but my experience with the Mavic 3's main camera under difference aperture tells otherwise. Although not a huge difference, the corner image quality under F5.6 is always sharper than F2.8. F8 is also sharper than F2.8, but less sharp than F5.6. F5.6 seems to be a sweat spot.

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That would be consistent with M4/3 cameras. Most lenses are sharpest around f4.0, and f5.6 a good all round setting in good light (f11 equivalent full-frame depth of field). f8 is getting toward diffraction-limited on M4/3. f11 will definitely be softer overall.
 
I wish I can believe what you said - but my experience with the Mavic 3's main camera under different aperture tells otherwise. Although not a huge difference, the corner image quality under F5.6 is always sharper than F2.8. F8 is also sharper than F2.8, but less sharp than F5.6. F5.6 seems to be a sweat spot.
There is no objection to what I've tried to tell beforehand: the M3-sensor is bigger so you will see an increase by stopping down probably up to f 5.6. The one inch is smaller, so mostly f 4 is already sufficiant. But even with stopping down, and I see that f 5.6 is quite fine with yours, you'll have those outer edges soft and higher apertures will suffer from overall diffraction and some parts of the images, especially the vignetted corners, remain.

It's a tribute to that small built I guess.
 
That would be consistent with M4/3 cameras. Most lenses are sharpest around f4.0, and f5.6 a good all round setting in good light (f11 equivalent full-frame depth of field). f8 is getting toward diffraction-limited on M4/3. f11 will definitely be softer overall.

A 20MP 4/3 sensor is diffraction limited beyond F6.3. By F8 the image will degrade in a way that is noticeable. Sharpness falloff is gradual though, so everyone is going to have a different threshold for what they view as acceptable sharpness.

A 20MP 1" sensor such as the one in the M2P and Air 2S is diffraction limited beyond F4.
 
The Mavic 2 Pro has issue with the glass & aperture in some case making it soft. I got the M3 last night & did a few shots in the dark & I am impressed! This image is resized 50% with no compression.
f/5, 1/15s, ISO 100. Underexposed to get better shutter speed. I was not going for long shutter. My M2P could not have been this good. The shadows came out much better without introducing more noise! I would also say it's better than my GH5! I also attached a crop.
Update Link to Sample folder DNG: M3 Samples - Google Drive

Cheers, Jon
 

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The Mavic 2 Pro has issue with the glass & aperture in some case making it soft. I got the M3 last night & did a few shots in the dark & I am impressed! This image is resized 50% with no compression.
f/5, 1/15s, ISO 100. Underexposed to get better shutter speed. I was not going for long shutter. My M2P could not have been this good. The shadows came out much better without introducing more noise! I would also say it's better than my GH5! I also attached a crop.

Cheers, Jon
Looks promising. Can you upload the dng file? Thanks!
 
f/5, 1/15s, ISO 100. Underexposed to get better shutter speed. I was not going for long shutter. My M2P could not have been this good.
A reference picture by the M2P would have been nice.
It would have shown if the advantage is the calculated one stop ...😆

There's definitely noise reduction in the JPG automatically, so DNG is the way to go for direct comparison.
But the quality looks fine.

This image is resized 50% with no compression.
JPG is always compressed lossy.
 
The magic 2 pro is great for photography if you get a good lens, i have found DJI have poor quality control in the lens and that only about 3 in 20 that I tested are perfect. i can’t imagine the 3 being much different since it had a wider lens fir a larger sensor in a similarly small package.
I fully agree! My first MP2 had a very bad lens with a big blurry spot on the left sight. I could reorder my purchase. My second one has an acceptable lens and is good enough for its purpose.
But the name Hasselblad for this lens is a laugh!
Ton, 100% photographer.
 
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I've had a look at some sample DNG files from various sources and false colour fringing (moire) on fine details on the M3 is absolutely horrendous. The camera produced jpeg doesn't show the issue so there must be some form of correcting filtering being done in camera but if you work with raw files then the moire issue is a real problem that I can't find a solution too (without manually having to 'brush out' the offending bold colour patterns).
I saw this in the DNG files, and mentioned it in another thread, someone mentioned a firmware update solved the issue.
 
Does anyone remember how much the Raw editing results improved on an earlier model like the M2P or A2S before and after Adobe adding support in Camera Raw? I'm used to proprietary Raws (Olympus ORF), where you can't edit new model Raws until they are supported unless you spoof an older model. With DNG being an open format, they are obviously readable immediately, before being fully supported. It would be interesting to know what corrections Lightroom can read now from the DJI info in the DNGs. I'm guessing things like distortion, CA and vignetting.
My old lightroom applies the correct corrections for the lens, so it doesn't need an update as it is written in the open spec.
 

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