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Photos look like trash

I am taking memory card out and transferring to iPad via SD to USB-C
Your real image files on the SD card, in a folder called 100MEDIA, which is inside the DCIM folder:
i-R2Spm6w-XL.jpg


If you are shooting jpg, the files will be approx 5-8 MB

Those tiny preview files are useless and you can stop your app from wasting space with them by turning off the cache to SD card and Cache locally settings here:
i-R6zg8c6-L.jpg
 
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JPG + RAW seems to have fixed it. Thanks for all your help. Need to find new forum for newbies i guess.
jpg + raw hasn't changed anything.
Were you shooting raw only before?
What files are you seeing in the 100MEDIA folder?

If you were shooting raw only, those tiny images were included preview images inside the raw images but you probably don't have a program that reads the .dng files.
 
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Seems you were shooting dng only but not using RAW processing software (like Lightroom mobile) to read the files, so all you got was the thumbnail. Now you shoot dng+jpeg you get the full size jpeg as well and that's what you've now posted. So you're now not using the dng.

It's more about camera file formats and photo editing workflows than about the drone itself. Being on a tablet with limited flexibility compared to a computer doesn't help, but there are likely many solutions that can be found on photo-centric forums.
 
Last edited:
jpg + raw hasn't changed anything.
Were you shooting raw only before?
What files are you seeing in the 100MEDIA folder?

If you were shooting raw only, those tiny images were included preview images inside the raw images but you probably don't have a program that reads the .dng files.

Yes shooting in RAW before. Maybe I shouldn’t have an iPad, maybe a MAC is the way to go.
 
Your real image files on the SD card, in a folder called 100MEDIA, which is inside the DCIM folder:
i-R2Spm6w-XL.jpg


If you are shooting jpg, the files will be approx 5-8 MB

Those tiny preview files are useless and you can stop your app from wasting space with them by turning off the cache to SD card and Cache locally settings here:
i-R6zg8c6-L.jpg

I cant even find those settings that you show.
 
No. Don’t give up mate.
We will help you through this :)

Firstly don’t shoot in raw at all. Leave this for when you get some time up. RAW is basically if you want to process your own pics.
I’m busy right now but will check in again later and help
 
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No. Don’t give up mate.
We will help you through this :)

Firstly don’t shoot in raw at all. Leave this for when you get some time up. RAW is basically if you want to process your own pics.
I’m busy right now but will check in again later and help

Thanks a million! I’ll jump back on here after work later. I appreciate your encouragement, I’m at my wits end with this thing.
 
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I’m at my wits end with this thing.
The only issues are that:
1. You are using an apple device that makes it hard to see what's going on
2. You don't have a graphics program that can read the dng (raw) files.
Forget raw for now and swap to jpg only and you'll be fine.
 
NOS77: Many droners use an iPad exclusively to edit and manage their images and videos. Lumafusion is the app most use and it's about twenty bones. People here rave about how easy it is to do the same thing we do on computers with the iPad, or allegedly so anyway. :) And, Adobe Lightroom MOBILE is also a really good suggestion. You might think about giving one or both of those a shot if you don't have a desktop or notebook confuser.

Anyway, the advice to stick with JPG files for now is a good one and don't even worry about video until you get the still photo business all figured out. Lumafusion, Lightroom Mobile, or Photoshop Mobile are some of the best mobile apps to use, or so I've read.
 
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Your real image files on the SD card, in a folder called 100MEDIA, which is inside the DCIM folder:
i-R2Spm6w-XL.jpg


If you are shooting jpg, the files will be approx 5-8 MB

Those tiny preview files are useless and you can stop your app from wasting space with them by turning off the cache to SD card and Cache locally settings here:
i-R6zg8c6-L.jpg
 
I don't know if this helps but I use a ND-8 filter and shutter opening to take pictures. I shoot is 1080 only.
 

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I don't know if this helps but I use a ND-8 filter and shutter opening to take pictures. I shoot is 1080 only.
It doesn't help.
It does nothing to affect the look of the photo and just forces the camera to use a slower shutter speed to get proper exposure.
Unless you have a particular reason to want a slower shutter speed, there is no reason to use an ND filter for drone photography (stills).
 
I've not upgraded to the Mavic II yet because of the curved horizon issue. That would just not be acceptable for me. I'm waiting for some kind of software fix. How have you MP2 guys dealt with the issue?
Actually, what do you use for photo editing? I use lightroom and I have to manually choose the DJI lens in lens correction and the issue actually goes away. If I shot more video, I would want to make sure the software I used to post-process can handle the curving, but most I have heard about (premiere pro, Davinci Resolve) appear to handle the curving without too much difficulty.
 
Yes shooting in RAW before. Maybe I shouldn’t have an iPad, maybe a MAC is the way to go.

That's what you see if you import a DJI raw (DNG) image directly into Photos on iOS. An iPad is quite capable of dealing with DNGs, but you need to install an image editing program that will handle raw files. JPEGs will import just fine, so if you are shooting JPEG or JPEG + RAW it will use the JPEG instead.
 
Actually, what do you use for photo editing? I use lightroom and I have to manually choose the DJI lens in lens correction and the issue actually goes away. If I shot more video, I would want to make sure the software I used to post-process can handle the curving, but most I have heard about (premiere pro, Davinci Resolve) appear to handle the curving without too much difficulty.

Many Thanks! I use DaVinci Resolve. I didn't know that there was a filter for the DJI lens specifically. I may need to upgrade to the paid version to take advantage of this correction, but it would be worth it.
 
It doesn't help.
It does nothing to affect the look of the photo and just forces the camera to use a slower shutter speed to get proper exposure.
Unless you have a particular reason to want a slower shutter speed, there is no reason to use an ND filter for drone photography (stills).
Wouldn’t you want an ND 32 or ND 16 for when it’s very sunny?
 
Wouldn’t you want an ND 32 or ND 16 for when it’s very sunny?
No why would you think that?
Your camera can adjust the shutter speed and aperture to vary the amount of light coming through and get proper exposure.
You don't need to put sunglasses on it at all.
If you are shooting stills, unless you have a particular reason to want a slower shutter speed than otherwise possible, there is no need to use ND filters on your drone.
 
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