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“I had originally solved this in HUGIN: but this was more by luck than judgement and it has stopped working properly now. HUGIN is really too complicated for me!”
“I had originally solved this in HUGIN: but this was more by luck than judgement and it has stopped working properly now. HUGIN is really too complicated for me!”
If it worked once it can work again. When I was using Hugin I wrote down settings that worked for different situations so I could repeat the stitch when necessary.“I had originally solved this in HUGIN: but this was more by luck than judgement and it has stopped working properly now. HUGIN is really too complicated for me!”
Good luck with that.If you post a link to a sample set of nine images I can play around a bit and possibly give you better suggestions.
Of course it is possible. Do this all the time in Photoshop without any issues. RAW is simply an image without any kind of compression, color space or anything else, it is simply what the sensor records and nothing more. It has less noise, a greater level of adjustments while keeping the quality high and RAW compression is lossless, additionally, all of these files can be post processed identically to help give a high level of consistency, and unlike JPEG files that also have a more limited color space, noise from compression and a lossy format, meaning each time you edit that file and save, it degridates the overall quality. In fact, if you take a JPEG file and resave it (I think) 26 times, it will look OK, but on that 27th save, your file goes to black and nothing else. You are of course welcome to use any technique you choose and works for the images you are wanting to make, but for all of the things you mentioned, RAW is still the way to go.The reason to convert the file format is that I do not know if its even possible to stitch RAW images.
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