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Video Histogram on the Mavic

Cerberus

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Ok, I have begun to dabble more into D-log and better video on the Mavic

and noted from some video tutorials that it is best if we use the Histogram on the DJI go 4 app and try to have all the shadows and midtones and highlights close to the middle..

so my question is, if any of those are way too high in the histogram, what can I do to lower them as close to the middle as I can?

Thanks in advance..
 
hmm, by adjusting the exposure?

but if memory serves me correct, you can't really directly adjust the exposure in the mavic right?
its fixed with the shutter speed, right? in other words, the exposure will only change when I change the shutter speed..

Am I correct in this?
 
In some ways it is ok to have the readings of histogram off to the left i.e a bit under exposed especially if shooting in RAW.
Then in A good editing programme you can bring the details out. If overexposed it is harder if not impossible to bring out the detail.
 
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In some ways it is ok to have the readings of histogram off to the left i.e a bit under exposed especially if shooting in RAW.
Then in A good editing programme you can bring the details out. If overexposed it is harder if not impossible to bring out the detail.

sounds reasonable... i'll keep that in mind. thankz
 
hmm, by adjusting the exposure?

but if memory serves me correct, you can't really directly adjust the exposure in the mavic right?
its fixed with the shutter speed, right? in other words, the exposure will only change when I change the shutter speed..

Am I correct in this?
Yes and also the ISO can be used as well.
 
hmm, by adjusting the exposure?

but if memory serves me correct, you can't really directly adjust the exposure in the mavic right?
its fixed with the shutter speed, right? in other words, the exposure will only change when I change the shutter speed..

Am I correct in this?
Yes and no...

Correct exposure is the function of two variables.

The amount of light that strikes the sensor and how long it is there. Back in the film days we had rule of thumb for bright sun. f16 at the recropical of the film speed.
ASA (ISO) 100 film would be f16 @ 1/100 sec, ASA 400, f16 @ 1/400 etc.

The Mavic lens has a fixed aperture f2.2, 5.5 stops larger than f16, each stop doubles the amount of light so to get the correct amount of light the shutter speed would have to be halved an equal number of times or around 1/2000 sec. This works for still images but will stop movement in every frame of a video, resulting in more of a " cartoon" effect.

To keep the shutter speed down to a speed that will introduce a bit of blur into the image we need a way of decreasing the amount of light at the lens. You can fly at dusk or dawn when the light is dim but this is restrictive. Another way to reduce the mount of light is put something dark in front of the lens, sunglasses for the lens. Fortunately these are available in the form of ND filters and the are marked to show exactly how much light they let through. An ND 16 filter will let through 1/16 of the light that hits it, making it equivalent to closing down a lens 4 stops. The f2.2 aperture is now effectively f11.
 
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