Which 3 ND Filters Should i Get?

[MavicFT1P]

OK so I may decide to buy some PolarPro ND filters individually, as I can't see myself using
a lot.
If you guys could only have 3 ND filters in your bad, which would they be?

 

[PedroV07]

I’ve used Tiffen as well as Polar Pro. I like the Tiffen filters more as they dont give off a grainy texture when filming which was the issue I had with Polar Pro. Tiffen filters feel really good and well built.

 

[Thomas B]

I’ve used Tiffen as well as Polar Pro. I like the Tiffen filters more as they dont give off a grainy texture when filming which was the issue I had with Polar Pro. Tiffen filters feel really good and well built.

Never had this with my Spark, MPP or M2P with PolarPro.

If I could only have 3 ND filters I would get the 8, 16, and 32, but get a 4 pack of Cinema Series from PolarPro and get a hard case with them. A 4 is useful at sundown/sun up.

 

[WithTheBirds]

You might have missed an active thread- Gotta pick 3 Polarpro ND filters...which ones??

 

[MavicFT1P]

You might have missed an active thread- Gotta pick 3 Polarpro ND filters...which ones??

My Bad. Did a quick search but did not come up with that.
thanks for the Tip anyway.

It's for a Mavic Pro btw. So Tiffen Filters are not an option

 

[WithTheBirds]

My Bad. Did a quick search but did not come up with that.
thanks for the Tip anyway.

It's for a Mavic Pro btw. So Tiffen Filters are not an option

Your question as asked suggestedND strength to be your area of interest (brand might be a secondary consideration). To the extent that is true you might get your answer from the other thread. Are you more curious about which brand?

 

[MavicFT1P]

Your question as asked suggestedND strength to be your area of interest (brand might be a secondary consideration). To the extent that is true you might get your answer from the other thread. Are you more curious about which brand?

3 Things to Know Before Buying Mavic Pro Filters - ND & PL

The most important things to look for when buying filters for the DJI Mavic. Why & how to use filters for the best Mavic footage possible.

www.gettingstamped.com

In this article, The guy comments on the 3 Filters he uses, would choose to have.
And goes on to say he finds a PL filter is better the majority of the time.

Most interesting was the notion that ND/PL filter combos can be orientated to lose the PL effect?

If true, The 6 ND/PL filter set they offer here would be perfect for me.
I think choosing only 3 has to come from personal experience, so which 6 should be the new thread title.

Are SANDMARC a reputable brand/As good as PolarPro? (I would research this before checkout but would be good to know straight off the bat)

I'm actually not crazy about the Gold used with the PolarPro Cinema filters, so this set seemed attractive.

Pro Plus Filters - DJI Mavic

SANDMARC Pro Plus Filter: PL, ND4/PL, ND8/PL, ND16/PL, ND32/PL, & ND64/PL Filters

www.sandmarc.com

 

[WithTheBirds]

3 Things to Know Before Buying Mavic Pro Filters - ND & PL

The most important things to look for when buying filters for the DJI Mavic. Why & how to use filters for the best Mavic footage possible.

www.gettingstamped.com

In this article, The guy comments on the 3 Filters he uses, would choose to have.
And goes on to say he finds a PL filter is better the majority of the time.

Most interesting was the notion that ND/PL filter combos can be orientated to lose the PL effect?

If true, The 6 ND/PL filter set they offer here would be perfect for me.
I think choosing only 3 has to come from personal experience, so which 6 should be the new thread title.

Are SANDMARC a reputable brand/As good as PolarPro? (I would research this before checkout but would be good to know straight off the bat)

I'm actually not crazy about the Gold used with the PolarPro Cinema filters, so this set seemed attractive.

Pro Plus Filters - DJI Mavic

SANDMARC Pro Plus Filter: PL, ND4/PL, ND8/PL, ND16/PL, ND32/PL, & ND64/PL Filters

www.sandmarc.com

I don't know anything about sandmark.

PL filters are fiddly in practice for two reasons- they need to be rotated to achieve the desired polarising effect (this varies with camera orientation to the sun) which obviously must be done on the ground prior to launch -AND- you can end up with a very strange looking sky as the wide angle lens often reveals how the polarising effect varies over a wide field of view.

Your approach to this should be to consider what conditions you will be shooting in (time of day principally) and your desired frame rate then buy the filters you need.

You will rarely need an 64.... If your buying 6 get ND 4 to 64 and a CPL. The three you will probably use most are the 4,8 and 16.

 

[MavicFT1P]

FYI: This is for a M1P
I imagine if there is a small mark on the filter or camera, the PL effect could be introduced or eliminated
with some practice?
It's just that with PolarPro, To obtain a set of Standard AND Polarising filters ND4 through 64 you have to buy some
epic 12 filter pack that is very expensive.

interesting comparison

Failing all else, are these filters decent enough. SunnyFire?

Lens Filters Gimbal Camera ND4/8/16/32+CPL+MCUV Accessori For DJI MAVIC PRO 6 HD | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Lens Filters Gimbal Camera ND4/8/16/32+CPL+MCUV Accessori For DJI MAVIC PRO 6 HD at the best online prices at eBay!

www.ebay.com.au

 

[WithTheBirds]

FYI: This is for a M1P
I imagine if there is a small mark on the filter or camera, the PL effect could be introduced or eliminated
with some practice?
It's just that with PolarPro, To obtain a set of Standard AND Polarising filters ND4 through 64 you have to buy some
epic 12 filter pack that is very expensive.

interesting comparison

Failing all else, are these filters decent enough. SunnyFire?

Lens Filters Gimbal Camera ND4/8/16/32+CPL+MCUV Accessori For DJI MAVIC PRO 6 HD | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Lens Filters Gimbal Camera ND4/8/16/32+CPL+MCUV Accessori For DJI MAVIC PRO 6 HD at the best online prices at eBay!

www.ebay.com.au

What you may have missed is that unless the sun is directly above you the polarising effect varies when you rotate the drone. You need to set the angle of rotation on the ground and avoid any significant yaw for each take or you will end up with an effect that to most people will seem unnatural and can’t be corrected in post.

Maybe someone will chime in with some experience on sunny fire.

As a rule you get what you pay for.

 

[MavicFT1P]

cheers

 

[PedroV07]

Never had this with my Spark, MPP or M2P with PolarPro.

If I could only have 3 ND filters I would get the 8, 16, and 32, but get a 4 pack of Cinema Series from PolarPro and get a hard case with them. A 4 is useful at sundown/sun up.

Maybe I had a bad batch? Not bashing Polar Pro, I use their Katana and the mount for the Crystal Sky and love the quality. Would like to try the new filters for the M2P.

 

[WithTheBirds]

I’ve used Tiffen as well as Polar Pro. I like the Tiffen filters more as they dont give off a grainy texture when filming which was the issue I had with Polar Pro. Tiffen filters feel really good and well built.

The most likely explanation for grainy footage may have been under exposure or high ISO. No polar pro filter I have used or seen could be that bad optically.

 

[MavicFT1P]

This limitation you speak of with regard to PL filters, is it introduced when the gimbal rotates
Or when the gimbal pans?
Im going to assume the former

With respect as a noob, I cant see the polarising thing being a problem.

From what i've read they seem to have 90 degrees of "functionality" (hence the suggested ability to negate the effect by twisting/installing them a quarter turn this way or that)

The only time the gimbal rotates for me is in calibration (I didnt even know it rotated for the first 6 months)\ or, obviously when trying to keep the imagine stable in manevouring.
When im doing P-mode photography, im not yawing side to side violently.

I dunno maybe i like adjusting, fiddling with stuff.

Is there anyone here who supports PL filters for the majority of situations?

 

[PedroV07]

The most likely explanation for grainy footage may have been under exposure or high ISO. No polar pro filter I have used or seen could be that bad optically.

Makes sense, I did just get into aerial photography when I had them lol

 

[WithTheBirds]

In your situation I would be inclined to do a quick google to understand the application of polarising filters in general photography- you may then be in an informed position to understand if you need one or not.

In pre digital times they were an almost necessity for landscape photography to give definition to produce deep blue skies and overall enhances saturation. Most of that can now be obtained in post, The missing element is removing glare from reflective surfaces. The only real use I have for a polariser these days is if I want to reduce the reflections off water so that you can see down below the surface. Needing to dial in pre launch detracts from the usefulness and practicality. If you had ever used one you would appreciate that you are tweaking the angle with every new composition.

 

[Thomas B]

The most likely explanation for grainy footage may have been under exposure or high ISO. No polar pro filter I have used or seen could be that bad optically.

Use manual settings, make ISO 100, set your frame rate (I like 30-60). The correct withyour filters. The control image is what follow. Takes several tries to get a feel for it. I am not a pro.

 

[WithTheBirds]

Use manual settings, make ISO 100, set your frame rate (I like 30-60). The correct withyour filters. The control image is what follow. Takes several tries to get a feel for it. I am not a pro.

This isn’t a case of, or at least shouldn’t be a problem requiring, several tries to get right. Simply work backwards from whatever the metered exposure is without filters to determine the number of stops required to arrive at roughly twice the exposure that is double the desired frame rate. In your case shooting at 60 FPS and an indicated shutter speed of 1/500s you would need 2 stops (ND4) to get you back to 1/125s. It’s very straight forward.

 

[Thomas B]

This isn’t a case of, or at least shouldn’t be a problem requiring, several tries to get right. Simply work backwards from whatever the metered exposure is without filters to determine the number of stops required to arrive at roughly twice the exposure that is double the desired frame rate. In your case shooting at 60 FPS and an indicated shutter speed of 1/500s you would need 2 stops (ND4) to get you back to 1/125s. It’s very straight forward.

Thanks!

 

[MavicFT1P]

I shoot at 3840 4K/30fps all the time. 16:9 plus extra frames seems ideal.

Before this thread dies, Does someone mind quickly explaining what Is AUTO
with the Camera and what is NOT.

For example, do you need to turn off Auto White Balance to gain access to ISo/Shutter settings?

thx