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Battery mod thread

But using the original BMS board and substituite only the cells will work , right ?
The mAh in in some ways hardcoded in the FW ?
 
But using the original BMS board and substituite only the cells will work , right ?
The mAh in in some ways hardcoded in the FW ?
Yes you can using normal BMS .....but if you really want to increase autonomy you need to discarge the litio-ion until 2,9 volts and normal bms cut at 3.15 v.
About no dji battery the parameter is still not hard coded = is visible but dji blocked it cutting max and min value on fw 0500
 
Ok, thanks for the info.
Will the warnings and the time remaining to return to the home point remain in Debug mode?
How do you enable Debug mode?
 
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Not so easy to disassemble the original battery but knowing the right points to insist on is certainly feasible.
In the photo of the cap you can clearly see the glue that should be able to cut with a very thin blade.
I seemed to understand that before swapping the cells it is safer to charge or discharge the original and new cells to 3.8V per cell,
first disconnect the positive pole, then the negative pole and finally the balance cable.
Everything is reassembled in reverse steps.
My next pass will be to try to mount a pair of VTC6
 
VTC6 installed, no problem :cool:
First nigth flight !
Not bad but I was hoping for something better.
25min with 41% battery, 3.2V at the landing.
Perhaps the first charge is not indicative.
Tomorrow I will try another outdoor discharge then I will try the hover test in the room and I will post the 2 graphics, original Cells vs VTC6
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But why you dont use the same holder, the original?,
Because disassembling the original battery it is very difficult to keep the case intact as the cells are glued deep on the bottom with a very elastic glue.
I've e used only 2 turn of electric tape at the bottom
 
Because disassembling the original battery it is very difficult to keep the case intact as the cells are glued deep on the bottom with a very elastic glue.
I've e used only 2 turn of electric tape at the bottom
Now how you have the battery open, you know if the glue could be removed by a heater
 
the labels shows each battery came from different factory. Same was noticed on DJI Mavic Air and Pro batteries labels. The LiPoHV cells inside were also noticed to be made by different manufacturers and found to be different quality.
 
I'd like to known if it is possible to charge the battery directly from pad on BMS with a LiIon charger without lock the BMS
I seem to see that charging the battery via the USB cable directly from the Mavic Mini, the charge never reaches 4.2V
 
so I've been following this thread for some time now and figured I'd give this a shot but just FYI be nice about my soldering jobs, I'm new to circuit board solder, I come from construction background for years and have a basic understanding of electricity.
Here is what I've done so far, I'm chargeing the battery mod right now, it's 2500mAh, it's 140 grams extra and I thought I'd just mount it to the top of the mavic mini. Please give me your idea's or thoughts on my project so far or concerns, after charging the pack I'm going to do just a hover test to see the time. I'll keep updating.
 

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also forgot to mention once everything was soldiered up and done, before I started the charge I test it with a quick plug in and turn on to see if it would detect the battery pack and it does. with just the standard mavic mini battery(casing stripped) I checked the voltage and temperatures then plugged in the pack and it instantly changed, so that tells me it works, I still have full telemetry.
Also, need some ideas on how to mount this thing on the top of the mavic.
 
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I don't quite understand what is the board you have mounted between the additional battery and the original.
I wonder why you didn't simply mount 2 other LiIon cells in parallel, you would have solved it with 90g instead of mixing 2 LiPo + LiIon technologies and add 140g
 
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