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Could you watch this video and tell me what's wrong with my gimbal?

CoolBeans

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So I trusted obstacle avoidance too much (only had it on front & rear as well) and did the rookie thing of going practically sideways and getting stuck in the world's biggest tree in Costa Rica.

A local monkey man did the most jaw dropping climb to about 120ft and knocked it out (I *thiiink* he was trying to grab it)

I thought the only real damage was a broken prop, but today I tested it more and realised the gimbal springs upwards when it's turned off. Hence the "gimbal overloaded" message when looking down, and it springs back up.

It's like there's 2 rubber bands inside, one pointing the camera down and the other pulling it up and they should be in balance, but the one pulling it down has broken?

Any tips how to fix would be amazing. ??
 

So I trusted obstacle avoidance too much (only had it on front & rear as well) and did the rookie thing of going practically sideways and getting stuck in the world's biggest tree in Costa Rica.

A local monkey man did the most jaw dropping climb to about 120ft and knocked it out (I *thiiink* he was trying to grab it)

I thought the only real damage was a broken prop, but today I tested it more and realised the gimbal springs upwards when it's turned off. Hence the "gimbal overloaded" message when looking down, and it springs back up.

It's like there's 2 rubber bands inside, one pointing the camera down and the other pulling it up and they should be in balance, but the one pulling it down has broken?

Any tips how to fix would be amazing. ??
its possible you snapped that ribbon cable and there is not fixing that unless you take it apart and replace.
Little research on YT should get you up to speed.

Phantomrain.org
Gear to fly your Mavic 2 in the Rain/Snow
 
I saw the same sort of behaviour i.e. returning to a certain position (I can't remember what the position was) on one of the M2P/Z I have played with but that gimbal and camera were and still are, working perfectly.
I was concerned at the time but it gave no warnings and as far as I know is still working perfectly. With the others the gimbals sat more or less where they were left ( I did the same sort of 'testing' as you did.)

From memory I tried to dismantle the gimbal enough to see what was the cause but I couldn't figure out how to remove the actual camera from the gimbal without applying significant force and I wasn't prepared to do that. What I saw suggested that the behaviour was due to the natural set of the individual strands of the data cable where it passes through one of the pitch pivots. I didn't see anything 'wrong'.
Incidentally removing the gimbal assembly is very easy BUT one of the screws you need to remove to remove the gimbal is sealed/marked so if your drone is still in warranty you would probably void the warranty.
BTW if you are thinking of sending it to DJI for repair browse the threads in here for discussions of post brexit import duties, they are a right kick in the .....
 
More over, if your planning on sending it to get a repair, best to send it ASAP as Chinese new year starts Feb 12th, and DJI shuts down for a good 2 weeks and then takes about another 2 weeks to get up to speed..So box that thing up! :p
 
Sorry but I think rushing a decision could be a costly mistake, the import duty on an M2P could be quite steep. Best check things out first and see if the import duty situation gets clarified, maybe DJI will start doing warranty work in the UK. If duty is applied at Dutch ports as care refresh etc. repairs from the UK arrive it has to be hurting them too. Or maybe a UK repairer will be authorised etc.etc.
 
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Coolbeans
Try without the battery in place.

The pitch motor is a digital step motor. If it has residual current it may try to stay in one location. Hence the spring effect.

The comment about the centre PTZ cable is credible but not very likely. (its a twisted multi-wire cable. Most of its torsional strength is from its insulation)

From the strength of the reaction you get I would guess that the pitch motor has been slightly damaged by the impact.
One other thought was that the camera inside is loose but that said there is not much room to move about inside the housing.

Try a gimbal calibration, observe the action and result.
If all is well do not worry about it.

If you want to check out the loose camera idea, just remove the back aluminium camera cover and mind the thermal paste. See if there is any forward/backwards looseness of the camera in its housing.
The camera is held at the front by three tiny screws, screwed into the cameras plastic case to hold the camera tight forwards in the aluminium case.

If you do need to get to the front screws you have to remove the front filter by an anticlockwise twist. Then pries the dark shroud off forwards with a plastic tool. There will be three tiny philips cross-head screws beneath three dobs of silicon sealant. Just scrape some of the sealant off and undo with a screwdriver. If at this point you disconnect the cable connector on the back of the camera you can withdraw the camera out of the back of the housing and inspect the PTZ cable where it enters the camera case.
 
If you want to check out the loose camera idea..........................................lant off and undo with a screwdriver. If at this point you disconnect the cable connector on the back of the camera you can withdraw the camera out of the back of the housing and inspect the PTZ cable where it enters the camera case.
Thanks for that info. I think it's what I lacked in my previous attempt
 
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