Error (code:200) Cannot Takeoff. Check if USB is connected

[hewo]

receptacle mangled? not the cable side but the expensive device side receptacle.
brute handling inserting de-inserting might have permanently damaged receptacle.
swap out the factory 5centimeter length cable ribbon and chk response. fried elex also may have occurred by brute insertion wrongway. the rc is not idiot proofed its receptacle for charging. the drone usbC is idiot proofed against wrongful insertion de-insertion of cable gender.

 

[krikite]

I honestly don't think this has anything to do with the cables. I tried many different types of cable in the two ports it still dislays the same error.

 

[CappyJD]

I have the Mavic Air and getting Error 200 takeoff failed, tried everything turned out to be a corrupt SD card, put new card in and formated works great now.

 

[Exphantomflyer]

I have the Mavic Air and getting Error 200 takeoff failed, tried everything turned out to be a corrupt SD card, put new card in and formated works great now.

ive seen a few posts on facebook pages about SD cards causing an issue.

 

[Poezilla]

My DJI Go app said that the Mavic Air needed a firmware update, so I did it. And then I could not take off due to the 200 error can't take off. The only way to fix it was to download DJI Assistant 2 on the PC connect the drone to the USB on the PC and re-load the firmware. I also reformatted the SD card with the PC for good measure, but I know know if there is a reformat on the DJI Go app or not. Anyway, the drone now takes off again, thank god.

 

[yonasin]

I encountered the same problem with my M2P after having it half a year hibernation. I reinstalled the firmware on my aircraft, and found my RC wouldn't be recognized by my Mac (it still charged occasionally). After several trials of turning on and off my rc and Mavic 2, it managed to get some imagery (rc connected normally to Mavic 2 from the start) and seemed to be working normal with its rotors able to rotate. The display on my phone rather looked like those when it gets interference and distorted caused by some high voltage structures (and I encountered this phenomenon with stripes first in a park today, strangely).

I reckon the rc isn't the cause of error 200, although it's best to establish its connection with Mac/PC (I am still wondering how to).

 

[Felix le Chat]

Just a couple of observations and suggestions (Mavic 2 user since 2019)

1) Flashing to newest firmware does cause problems with the Mavic 2's, sometimes it is the disparity between the GO4 app version and the firmware version - older flight apps tend not to work well with newer firmwares.

2) Are you using the original RC1A/1B? or the RM500 'Smart controller'? The original RC's can be linked to the DJI Assistant software via USB-microUSB as a separate component to update to latest firmware version, which you are better off doing.

3) The image breakup you describe is familiar to me. Made the mistake of flashing my Mav.2 Zoom to a firmware above v.**.**.0670 and as soon as I tried putting the bird in the air after the 'upgrade': the control signal was utterly useless on the 2.4-2.48gHz band... I didn't 'upgrade' the Mav.2 Pro and it is still flying perfectly on 2.4-2.48gHz four years later.

Another possible cause is the most pedestrian one: the OTG cable - try buying a replacement.

Last question - how well is the controller holding the battery charge? Can you charge to the full 100%? Afterwards, without use: does the controller substantially lose charge more quickly than it used to? There are two possible causes - your internal controller battery is old and tired - you may need to replace it. The other cause is a chip and resistor malfunction on the main controller board which is not possible to repair without buying a complete new main board... and they are expensive.

DJI software and MAC computers aren't the best mix - it would be really useful if you could borrow the use of an old PC/laptop running windows 8 (or 10). Assistant 2 still works perfectly on my Windows 11 based system and I recently used suggestion 2) to re-flash my original RC1A and RC1B controller firmware (not update it!!)