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Mavic 2m under the sea - survived

stevedevereux

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Hello folks, thought I'd share an experience with you. At home we have a pool with a salt water system. When phones or electronics get into the pool, we immerse in burning alcohol to remove the water, agitate for a while, allow to dry out and they generally work OK. One phone had funny colours in part of the screen afterwards. Water dissolves in alcohol and the alcohol gets right inside the device to remove the water. It's also more volatile than water so dries out faster. Putting your device in rice may dry the outside but on the inside ... it's there causing damage until it dries out. If there is salt in the water, is seriously damaging. We keep a closed plastic container of alcohol handy near the pool just in case...

So I decided to try hand launch and retrieve from a yacht while on holiday in Greece, tied up at the jetty to begin with before trying under sail. All went fine and I had the retrieved drone in my left hand and controller in my right. When I switched off the propellors, my hand was too far forward of the CofG and - gasp - it twisted down from my hand and fell behind the boat into the water as the propellor lift disappeared. Sank to the bottom 2m down. I jumped in and retrieved it back to the boat and removed the battery.

The strongest alcohol we had on board was 2 bottles of very nice gin. Plastic food container, Mavic in, filled it with gin then went hunting. Local store had some pure alcohol so I replaced the gin (no didn't try to drink it) with the pure alcohol. After agitating the container for quite a while, took the Mavic out and let it dry out. Ignored all the mickey-taking from my wife who was also irritated that the gin had all gone.

Now I wasn't dumb enough to stick another battery on it and try to fly it. I took it back to the UK where there is a place near London that does Mavic repairs. Sent it to them, it cost me £100 (about $135) to fix it; much cheaper than a new one. But it flies fine and everything works.

Hope this is useful to someone - but even better to not drop it in the sea to begin with.

Cheers, Steve.
 
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Thanks for the alcohol tip. I thought salt water was a death sentence for electronics but your tip at least gives a ray of hope.

If the alcohol saved the electronics, what required $135 to fix?
 
Sounds like a typical diagnostic & test charge from a shop, what did they invoice you for?

Ipa (Isopropyl alcohol) is probably the best thing to use to clean a PCB
 
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Sending it in was precautionary; I'm 80% confident that it would have flown OK. BUT - attach a battery, it shorts out, fries the drone and anything it's sitting on. Or take off, something fails in the control system, it flies off and doesn't RTH - crashes into a baby's stroller 10 miles away. I sent it to Electronic Equipment Repair Services - Game Consoles Macbooks Drones for a full diagnostic. They didn't replace anything far as I know.
 
Good result.
A common misconception is for people to dry out a device that is water logged. The whole rice thing is rather funny. Fine if you want to dry it out, but actually you don't want that to happen (not right away).
It's not so much the water that damages the circuits, it's the minerals/contaminants in the water drying out on the boards that do the most harm.
Here's a great video from a lady who know's what she's on about.
Short answer as Steve suggests, is to displace the water before it dries out.
 
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From previous experience it's better to flush out salt water with deionised water and then alcohol.

Salt disolves poorly in alcohol compared to water.
 
But you can make things alot worse

Allowing the salt water to penetrate deeper
Worth the risk, salt water is a killer to electronics, combined with oxygen salt rapidly accellerates oxidisation.

Any salt water left in there is going to rapidly corrode the PCB. If you can't get every drop out it's junk.

Removing covers and getting it submersed or flushed with deionised water or alcohol before corrosion starts is key.

If I couldn't get it opened straight awayafter recovery I'd probably go as far as to submerge it in fresh water to reduce oxidisation until I could.
 
The worst place for corrosion is under the ic's which normally keep an air pocket when just submerged but then having flowing water afterwards can cause water to run under the ic's with the particulates from the rest of the board causing the tracks to erode

that's my experience anyway

Used to work in the Returns department at an electronics company doing both fault finding and repair to component level on both through hole and surface Mount boards
 
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The salt in seawater is already dissolved in the water. Mixing salty water and alcohol would not cause the salt to precipitate out; there's no chemical reaction to cause precipitation. Anyway from experience with people ending up in our pool with a phone in their pocket, the neat alcohol has worked 100% of the time. And finding deionised water on a Greek island is probably trickier than finding alcohol ...
 
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Many years ago I had an HTC phone that went through an entire cycle of a clothes washing machine. Wife did the rice in zip lock bag for about a week...the thing worked good as new after that. Of course that wasn't salt water, so glad to know that the alcohol appears to be a fix for that.
 
Good result.
A common misconception is for people to dry out a device that is water logged. The whole rice thing is rather funny. Fine if you want to dry it out, but actually you don't want that to happen (not right away).
It's not so much the water that damages the circuits, it's the minerals/contaminants in the water drying out on the boards that do the most harm.
Here's a great video from a lady who know's what she's on about.
Short answer as Steve suggests, is to displace the water before it dries out.
I sat and watched the whole video - fascinating! Learned a few things.
 
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just watched it

I personally wouldn't leave a coupling / decoupling capacitor off

The smoothing cap maybe if I had to but unlikely

I would also of used a fiberglass pen to clean up the pad ether than the soldering iron, to much risk of damaging the pcb
 
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