Lol thanks, sameI am using Capture One which now supports DNG. All I need now is a drone.
Makes sense same on my Olympus EM-1 which is also Micro 4/3 Don't suppose you have compared to Autel Lite+ by any chance??I have done the same assessment a while back. For the main camera, you get the maximum corner sharpness at F5.6. F8 is also sharper than F2.8, but less sharp than F5.6. F5.6 is the sweat spot.
View attachment 143733
Honestly.... if you do some pixel peeping on the two images, F5.6 is sharper all over when compared to your F2.8.I have done the same assessment a while back. For the main camera, you get the maximum corner sharpness at F5.6. F8 is also sharper than F2.8, but less sharp than F5.6. F5.6 is the sweat spot.
Honestly.... if you do some pixel peeping on the two images, F5.6 is sharper all over when compared to your F2.8.
Thank you so much! Would you mind posting the center crop or the DNG for comparison?I have done the same assessment a while back. For the main camera, you get the maximum corner sharpness at F5.6. F8 is also sharper than F2.8, but less sharp than F5.6. F5.6 is the sweat spot.
View attachment 143733
Thank you so much! Would you mind posting the center crop or the DNG for comparison?
I see, thanks again!For center crop, there is no difference in terms of sharpness between F2.8/F5.6/F8, even for pixel peepers.
I'm assuming your Hasselblads were a much larger format sensor/film. Smaller sensors like the m4/3 on the M3 can be diffraction limited by like f/6, so shooting beyond that gives diminishing/negative returns on sharpness.I may just be old but why would you take a landscape at 2.8? Is that a drone thing? Normally, any lens performs best at two to three stops down. Back in the dark ages, I used to shoot at f/16 on my Hasselblads.
There is some strange effect on the F5.6 photo, look at the shadows of the trees on the white roof, there is like a white and grey outline in the perimeter of the shadows, the F2.8 doesn't have that, any idea why that happened?I have done the same assessment a while back. For the main camera, you get the maximum corner sharpness at F5.6. F8 is also sharper than F2.8, but less sharp than F5.6. F5.6 is the sweat spot.
View attachment 143733
Looks like a highlight recovery artifact. I'm curious if @SkywalkerFeng shot those samples as JPG or raw, and if there's any adjustments applied to them.There is some strange effect on the F5.6 photo, look at the shadows of the trees on the white roof, there is like a white and grey outline in the perimeter of the shadows, the F2.8 doesn't have that, any idea why that happened?
Looks like a highlight recovery artifact. I'm curious if @SkywalkerFeng shot those samples as JPG or raw, and if there's any adjustments applied to them.
Thanks for clarifying!You are correct, these are highlight recovery artifact from Lightroom post-processing. Both samples are DNG files, applied the same post-processing in Lightroom.
I understand that. 7.1 is what I use on M43. However, my question remains, why use 2.8?
f5.6 here from both Mavic 3 and Autel Lite+
Hi everyone,
I have a hard time finding DNG RAW files from the DJI Mavic 3 main camera, shot at f/5.6 and f/8. Could I ask you to share some? I'd use them to assess corner sharpness.
thanks, geb
Shutter speed considerations in low light. Hyperfocal distance on the platform is like 50 feet, and lens sharpness is so close to the stopped down performance that it's really just a question of using the aperture necessary to get the shutter/ISO you want for the shot. I don't really pay attention to what my aperture is even set to in flight.I understand that. 7.1 is what I use on M43. However, my question remains, why use 2.8?
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