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Mavic Air 2 - Extended capacity battery mod - 7350mAh - Not my work

Hi can someone help me with this. With one battery I get a flight time of 24m, when I set my battery in 3s1p x 2 I only get a flight time of 17m...

Double battery..!!! Not sure what went wrong... (before test flight I balanced my battery)..
 

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Hai, dapatkah seseorang membantu saya dengan ini. Dengan satu baterai saya mendapatkan waktu penerbangan 24m, ketika saya mengatur baterai saya dalam 3s1p x 2, saya hanya mendapatkan waktu penerbangan 17m ...



Baterainya dobel..!!! Tidak yakin apa yang salah ... (sebelum uji terbang saya menyeimbangkan baterai saya) ..
Hi, apakah kamu bisa berbahasa inggris?
I think I need to know if you are doing 3s1p with only 1 cell being paralleled (for a total of 4 cells?) If you have only 4 cells then it will make sense if you dont even get more than 24m as the paralled cell will be discharging much more slowly than the other 2 cells, and this imbalance will quickly cause the voltage drop. For a full double cell, you need 3s2p meaning 6 cells. Do you have a circuit diagram to show what you have done?

English is the medium for 1000x better response, besides everyone else on this forum uses English.
 
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You need to rewrite the eeprom to match the new configuration or the readings will be off. Doesn't matter what flight distance it says though, voltage is voltage. Still, it'll behave oddly during charge and discharge. Come to think of it, it might not even reach full charge or balance at all unless each parallel cell had each serial pair... paired
 
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Hi, apakah kamu bisa berbahasa inggris?
I think I need to know if you are doing 3s1p with only 1 cell being paralleled (for a total of 4 cells?) If you have only 4 cells then it will make sense if you dont even get more than 24m as the paralled cell will be discharging much more slowly than the other 2 cells, and this imbalance will quickly cause the voltage drop. For a full double cell, you need 3s2p meaning 6 cells. Do you have a circuit diagram to show what you have done?

English is the medium for 1000x better response, besides everyone else on this forum uses English.
Hi Lee, thanks for your reply and sorry about the automatic language translation. Yes I think I've been wrong in the parallel wiring. So here's the wiring diagram you asked me to show you. Tell me what 3s1p and 3s2p are supposed to be. Because I don't have flasher battery so that's the only safest way for me to do it.. You can see in the picture that I only use one BMS and there is only one balancing cable connected to the BMS by default, while the other wiring is as I show in this photo diagram. So please tell me the mistake I made for this. Thanks
 

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Hi, apakah kamu bisa berbahasa inggris?
I think I need to know if you are doing 3s1p with only 1 cell being paralleled (for a total of 4 cells?) If you have only 4 cells then it will make sense if you dont even get more than 24m as the paralled cell will be discharging much more slowly than the other 2 cells, and this imbalance will quickly cause the voltage drop. For a full double cell, you need 3s2p meaning 6 cells. Do you have a circuit diagram to show what you have done?

English is the medium for 1000x better response, besides everyone else on this forum uses English.
Hi Lee, thanks for your reply and sorry about the automatic language translation.

Yes I think I've been wrong in the parallel wiring. So here's the wiring diagram you asked me to show you. Tell me what 3s1p and 3s2p are supposed to be. Because I don't have flasher battery so that's the only safest way for me to do it..
You need to rewrite the eeprom to match the new configuration or the readings will be off. Doesn't matter what flight distance it says though, voltage is voltage. Still, it'll behave oddly during charge and discharge. Come to think of it, it might not even reach full charge or balance at all unless each parallel cell had each serial pair... paired

Hi Nobbler, thanks for the reply. It's just that I don't have a BMS flasher to rewrite the EEPROM configuration. So I just worked on the hardware and tried to outsmart the software with it.
 
Hi Lee, thanks for your reply and sorry about the automatic language translation.

Yes I think I've been wrong in the parallel wiring. So here's the wiring diagram you asked me to show you. Tell me what 3s1p and 3s2p are supposed to be. Because I don't have flasher battery so that's the only safest way for me to do it..


Hi Nobbler, thanks for the reply. It's just that I don't have a BMS flasher to rewrite the EEPROM configuration. So I just worked on the hardware and tried to outsmart the software with it.
its not easy to get access to EEProm rewriting. You need the EV2300 kit and also the software that can unlock the battery data. Both are not free.
 
its not easy to get access to EEProm rewriting. You need the EV2300 kit and also the software that can unlock the battery data. Both are not free.
yes i know i have to have it, but i'm not talking about free or paid. But how to get more amperage without using software. because basically the default battery settings already support to do that .. And this is what we are talking about ..
 
yes i know i have to have it, but i'm not talking about free or paid. But how to get more amperage without using software. because basically the default battery settings already support to do that .. And this is what we are talking about ..
I actually dont have my MP1 anymore, but your modifications have been attempted here:

To clarify my own comments, it looks like you are making 2x 3S1P packs IE you are paralleling at the 12V output points of both batteries, and balance charging each cell (there are 6 in total, 3 per original pack, correct?)

You will need to read the thread thoroughly, I believe more than 1 person has done it.
 
I actually dont have my MP1 anymore, but your modifications have been attempted here:

To clarify my own comments, it looks like you are making 2x 3S1P packs IE you are paralleling at the 12V output points of both batteries, and balance charging each cell (there are 6 in total, 3 per original pack, correct?)

You will need to read the thread thoroughly, I believe more than 1 person has done it.
yes you are right, it's only 2x 3s1p which I paralleled directly through the balance line hoping to get the amperage increase effect, but that doesn't seem to work, then I asked those of you who have been successful in doing it, how to do it right, I can't be too much experimenting because my resources are limited, so I need to discuss it with people who have already succeeded in doing it to minimize errors and wasted resources in vain (yes I know it takes sacrifices in every experiment, it's just that right now I'm in a pretty good state "tight", but the work demands that this modification be done). I'm working on a documentary video with a fairly long duration so I need this so that I don't waste much time just landing, changing the battery, waiting for the gps lock and returning to the last shooting point.. but by increasing the flight time this saves a lot of time and money actually ..so anyway thank you for your support and your answers and concern. I hope to find a way out of this group...
 
yes you are right, it's only 2x 3s1p which I paralleled directly through the balance line hoping to get the amperage increase effect, but that doesn't seem to work, then I asked those of you who have been successful in doing it, how to do it right, I can't be too much experimenting because my resources are limited, so I need to discuss it with people who have already succeeded in doing it to minimize errors and wasted resources in vain (yes I know it takes sacrifices in every experiment, it's just that right now I'm in a pretty good state "tight", but the work demands that this modification be done). I'm working on a documentary video with a fairly long duration so I need this so that I don't waste much time just landing, changing the battery, waiting for the gps lock and returning to the last shooting point.. but by increasing the flight time this saves a lot of time and money actually ..so anyway thank you for your support and your answers and concern. I hope to find a way out of this group...
I'm so sorry I havent checked back to this thread for so long. Do you still need help? If you are using genuine battery cells from DJI, and all 6 cells are individually charged to maximum voltage and capacity, you will get extended flight time from the combination. However, in a nutshell that is one of the few combo;s that eventually add flight time. If you are for example using a pack that is not high enough in voltage or capacity, then your DJI pack will discharge and charge it instead of providing current to the drone,, hence you will lose flight time.

Anyway, for hacked packs like yours, you need to fly by voltage and not estimated remaining capacity (which is by itself and function of voltage, but it only caters for the original pack). You need to plot your own flight time remaining vs the voltage of the pack, and know when is 50% and 5% for critical landing.
 
I would be interested to know how much heavier this makes the drone? How much more strain there is on the motors having to carry the extra weight? I like the idea don't get me wrong, but if you are putting a ton more strain on the motors to keep it in flight, there is a risk there. Unfortunately, loosing 1 motor on these things brings it down.
I have an Air2s with a battery mod, but nothing near the increase in Mah as these guys did in the previous posts. I use a smaller lighter weight battery. It's also a High Voltage battery, allowing me to get more Mah relative to it's weight. I noticed, if I go up in weight, the motors get way to hot. I also noticed, if there is too much weight the area where the battery connects to the drone gets too hot. I noticed this because I noticed the plastic around the pins had become deformed by the heat. So, I only use a battery just strong enough to give me an extra 5-7 minutes of flight. This is just enough to get a full 30 second hyperlapse. I only use the extra battery if I want to do a 30 second hyperlapse. I fear using it on a regular basis due to possible motor or esc damage.
 
I have an Air2s with a battery mod, but nothing near the increase in Mah as these guys did in the previous posts. I use a smaller lighter weight battery. It's also a High Voltage battery, allowing me to get more Mah relative to it's weight. I noticed, if I go up in weight, the motors get way to hot. I also noticed, if there is too much weight the area where the battery connects to the drone gets too hot. I noticed this because I noticed the plastic around the pins had become deformed by the heat. So, I only use a battery just strong enough to give me an extra 5-7 minutes of flight. This is just enough to get a full 30 second hyperlapse. I only use the extra battery if I want to do a 30 second hyperlapse. I fear using it on a regular basis due to possible motor or esc damage.

I tested this a few weeks after your post with a MA2, and tried to plot the results:
 
I suppose there is limited English reviews of this mod.

In Malaysia and several countries in South East Asia, some skilled modders have access to raw DJI battery cells (through China).

By combining this with the existing cells you can have 3S2P configurations, for around US$70 you can modify your existing battery pack.

View attachment 110572

Here is how it performs:

Hover to 0 - 43:42s
Short flight to 9% (Auto Landing begins), no cancellation allowed - 40:28s (I spent a good 3 mins on the ground to check everything and lock gps)

Dat files to check the flight parameters:View attachment 110576
A few notes - Battery capacity was reprogrammed to 7350mAh, and so it is intelligent. You can see the remaining cap in mAh, and also % tracking it closely. RTH time is also accurate. But the dat file is somehow truncated in this file and it only records up to 1840s. Another roughly 10mins of flight was not recorded somehow...

Battery current is around 10A, flying very steadily and was around 2-5m/s speed. Motor speed on Front ard 7200rpm. ESC temp "~630", I assume is 63C. After land, the motor covers, arms, motors do not feel too hot to touch. They are definitely warmer than normal. As comparison, I previously tested Mavic Pro with extended batteries and they are so much warmer.

View attachment 110578

I just compare a normal standard battery in a normal flight.
Battery current is around 6.6A, flying very steadily and was very low speed. Motor speed on Front ard 6400rpm. ESC temp "~540", I assume is 54C. After land, the motor covers, arms, motors feels only slightly warm. Battery temp here is 47C


Based on the increase in load 10A vs 6.6A, the flight times are pretty makes sense. 7.35Ah/10A=44min. 3.5Ah/6.6A=32min

Lastly the weight is 390g total. So if you have a payload of about 150g, then the flight time will decrease to 21mins.
Im interested, Do you know if it can be shipped to Europe by any chance?
 
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Im intereted, Do you know if it can be shipped to Europe by any chance?
You may check DHL, fedex or UPS costs and requirements for a 1kg Lithium battery 20x20x20cm. Last I checked around 150USD, while the whole battery itself will cost around another 170USD from Malaysia.
If it’s still feasible to you, feel free to PM me and I will directly connect you to the maker. I suppose you need to pay a bit of handling costs as well.
 
You may check DHL, fedex or UPS costs and requirements for a 1kg Lithium battery 20x20x20cm. Last I checked around 150USD, while the whole battery itself will cost around another 170USD from Malaysia.
If it’s still feasible to you, feel free to PM me and I will directly connect you to the maker. I suppose you need to pay a bit of handling costs as well.
Can you try to dm me? seems like I can't, says that my message is spam for some kinda reason
 
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