I'm sure I speak for us all when I say we are looking forward to your results!
Mavic pro battery & antenna mod!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter jkantiques
- Start date
I'm sure I speak for us all when I say we are looking forward to your results!
I have my fpvlr antennas on the way. I sure hope they're working well for you.
I'm particularly interested in their directionality and how much signal loss there is outside of their angle of operation.
Shouldn't be hard for someone brave to do that test. Like if you went say 1km away. Then turn your RC left or right 90 degrees...
Intrglctcrevfnk
Well-Known Member
Yep. I plan on doing a thorough test this weekend.
Winds yesterday were crazy high as a cold front came through, but they were calming down in the afternoon when I took a quick flight. KP index was a 6 too so I was scared about that.
Will report back this weekend on it!
I just did a 10,000 ft. run last night, it's cold here in NJ.
so I flew from inside my house, sitting at my
kitchen island which is 7 ft. from my glass
doors. this again is using the 9dbi yagi 2400mhz antennas.
I will post screen shot when I get home from work tonight.
so I flew from inside my house, sitting at my
kitchen island which is 7 ft. from my glass
doors. this again is using the 9dbi yagi 2400mhz antennas.
I will post screen shot when I get home from work tonight.
Intrglctcrevfnk
Well-Known Member
Have you made any plans for a dipole antenna for the Mavic? I like the Yagi but since I have the SMA connectors I was going to get something that was closer looking to stock for use also.
A 6dbi omnidirectional or a 5dbi dipole. Only thing I don't like about the dipole's I've seen so far is their frequency response around 2400mhz.
Got any suggestions?
EDIT: so I did manage to remove the stock antennas without any damage. (There is one side with a lip and one without. Turn it 90* and leverage against the side with the lip- pops right out). If I can't find what I need I could get a little hardware and create an SMA end on the antenna. Would need a female UFL/IPEX to male SMA cord and some enginuity...
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My own personal suggestion if you test this would be to set the DJI Go 4 app to hover when signal lost, and not return to home.
So at a signal lost it will have, then you can play and turn around different directions to so when it reconnects, when you loose it again, walk a little closer to see if it makes a difference in reconnecting. Well I'm sure you get the point.
If it goes into RTH you won't be able to find the estimated angles best pointing at the mavic beucause it will start flying back to you.
Also maybe have someone at the location you fly to so when it goes into hover from signal loss you still have someone eyes on it and they can make sure no one approaches the mavic and does something stupid to get hurt.
Just maintain communication with the person watching the mavic over the phone. Maybe have them record video so you can see how the mavic reacts when it looses the signal.
It will be interesting to see your findings. Please mention when you report back what kind of terrain your flying, trees, buildings, howmhigh and all that good $%%*
Intrglctcrevfnk
Well-Known Member
I hear ya- that would be a solid way to test the tx/rx on the Yagi antennas. Mine was a little less scientific but I did get some observations about the directionality of the antennas. Think I might open up another thread for an in depth review, how I modded the controller, and other observations. Haven't seen anyone else do it here for the community.
But quick overall is that these antennas are great and I don't regret getting them! It allowed me to fly further than I had in the same geographical areas with the stock antennas or with stock antennas and a parabolic reflector. Flew it in a dense urban area (Memphis, TN) with a ton of potential radio interference all around. Now I've been pushing my distance further and further as I get more and more used to the Mavic. Maxed out at 5600ft distance at 385ft altitude for now using the Yagi's this weekend.
I do think I could go further, but to my east there were a large amount of high voltage power lines (the big infrastructure ones). Also a hospital I wanted to avoid. When I flew to the west I was trying to get back over where I live from my brother's house. Broke VLOS rules as a hobbyist... I have run into the same interference when getting over a church between here and there. Not sure what is happening around it but it's instant signal issues.
What I really noticed about the Yagi's was the downlink was solid as a rock. Even if I got enough interference to loose the uplink (controller) the downlink would have 2 of 5 bars (HD feed). Also had it on custom 10hz width and selected the lowest interference channel I could find on DJI GO 4.
I really need to get out in the country and give it a distance test to really check out what these antennas will do. I'd be scared to set it to hover on lost signal a mile away and would absolutely have to have a second person backup for such an experiment.
The attachment has 3 batteries worth of flight on it FYI. Just the map overview.
NOTE: The following is based off of what information you provided so far, and some assumptions. I usually don't like suggesting things without knowing all the specifics and facts. So this may change depending on your response.
Questions:
1: Does the the mavic power up with just the mod battery packs connected, without the mavic battery?
2: With the mavic battery and the mod batteries connected at the same time, does the mavic turn on, or do you still have to turn on the mavic smart battery before the mavic turns on?
Once I know the answers to these questions I can suggest the best method for using this mod, and connecting the mod.
I'm assuming this battery mod has no active components or circuitry (not including a resistor for the LED light) so when you plug them in they put the batteries are in parallel extending the capacity. It doesn't look like it has any diodes of anything to prevent reverse polarity or shorts in between the packs. But I can't be 100% sure since I didn't take one apart and don't own one.
So you use the Y splitter. The other packs you add on, are they also 3S packs?
The ideal batteries in parallel would all be about the same capacity. But putting two additional 3900Mah 3S packs (one on each side of the mavic) would probably weight down the drone and defeat the extended run times. So the best you could do is use two 1900Mah 3S packs, one on each side, the two 1900 packs would come the closest to the capacity of the mavic 3S battery. If you didn't use a Y splitter I think it would be a better match to run a single 3800-3900 3S pack on top without the Y splitter to match closer to the mavics battery capacity.
And as I type this I find myself doubting what I'm typing because I don't have all the facts
Ok, Question. If you put the battery mod on the mavic and didn't turn on the mavic battery, does the mavic still power up? I'm trying to figure out if the mavic will still power up from the mavic battery turning on, or if the mavic battery communicates to the mavic and turns the mavic on?
Let me give you a "If this, then that" answer. The mod only uses two negative terminals and two possotive terminals. So it's possible the mavic doesn't power on with just the add on mod batteries. If this is true, then it would be best to add the mod batteries first, then the mavic battery pack, then turn on the mavic. This will put all the batteries in parallel first and when the mavic is turned on it receives a stable line of power from the combined packs.
But by turning the mavic on first and then connecting the additional batteries could cause a surge or inrush current from the additional batteries.
Now for the other "if this, then that". If the batteries from the mod only without the mavic battery power it up and turn it on then it might not make a difference when or how you plug them in. But I would suggest plugging both batteries into the Y first, then into the mod after a minute once you know the two batteries connected in the Y splitter are stable.
It's critical that all the batteries are at the same voltage or as close as possible to prevent one battery from dumping and trying to charge another battery pack. So when fully charged a pack running 3.7V nominal voltage cells should be at 12.6V fully charged.
Scott
Well since this thread seems more about the mods and buying them so o think a new thread would be good.
I've also thought about opening a different thread just about the batteries, wirering, mocrocontler firmware and basic electronics deep dive.
But for now only one person has the battery mod so I'm counting in his information to post best practice when using the battery mod since it didn't come with any instructions and the site doesn't post much.
Probably for the same reason the extenders don't post much, they don't want others to copy it. I don't want to copy ot, just understand it so someone doesn't crash or fry the electrical system in the Mavic. Or worse blow up some batteries.
Scott
This is more of a balancing charging FYI, and won't affect your mod.
I think I was able to identify the true leads to the individual cells by taking apart the 4 way charger that came with the fly more package. I'm used to measuring the balancing leads and checking the voltage of each cell, but as others have noted when you turn the battery on it shows the same voltage on these pins probably because the internal microcontroler and active components changing the flow of power.
So by looking at the charger block I was able to determine what I believe are the three separate balancing leads.
I'm thinking I might be able to mod the charging block and make one of them for checking each cell voltage. But I have enough projects on the plate, just thought I would share this information. By the way the USB port battery add on looks like a basic step down buck converter, and that makes sense to step down the 11.1V to 5V USB voltage.
I was bored one night in the basement with tornado warnings and decided to take them apart. Since I was in the basement I didn't do any tear down videos for it.
I originally grabbed the drone bag since it's now part of my gear incase something happens to find stuff and people from the air after a disaster. Same reason I grab my FLIR now during a tornado warning. I just need to 3D print a way to mount the FLIR one and iPod touch (6th gen) to the bottom of the mavic for a better aerial view.
Thank you,
Scott
I think I was able to identify the true leads to the individual cells by taking apart the 4 way charger that came with the fly more package. I'm used to measuring the balancing leads and checking the voltage of each cell, but as others have noted when you turn the battery on it shows the same voltage on these pins probably because the internal microcontroler and active components changing the flow of power.
So by looking at the charger block I was able to determine what I believe are the three separate balancing leads.
I'm thinking I might be able to mod the charging block and make one of them for checking each cell voltage. But I have enough projects on the plate, just thought I would share this information. By the way the USB port battery add on looks like a basic step down buck converter, and that makes sense to step down the 11.1V to 5V USB voltage.
I was bored one night in the basement with tornado warnings and decided to take them apart. Since I was in the basement I didn't do any tear down videos for it.
I originally grabbed the drone bag since it's now part of my gear incase something happens to find stuff and people from the air after a disaster. Same reason I grab my FLIR now during a tornado warning. I just need to 3D print a way to mount the FLIR one and iPod touch (6th gen) to the bottom of the mavic for a better aerial view.
Thank you,
Scott
Intrglctcrevfnk
Well-Known Member
I understand! Just got done putting together a little installation help post- about to do the review part now.
Here's the link to my thread:
Mavic FPVLR/Yagi Antenna Mod -Installation Guide and Review!
So which is the best antenna for doing what?
I believe there is still no comparisons being done between the different designs, and theoies, and what not.
And the battery mods, what should the general public be aware of when trying to use the mod which is now on sale from MaxxUAV and other sites. I didn't find any explanations on how to use them properly. i.e. how to connect and power on/ how the the mavic deals with the extra capacity? Will the DJI Go App calculate for extra capacity? and what not? And what is max pay load or extra weight the mavic can carry without afftecting its flight performance too much or what is the best capacity to weight ratio for the mavic to have two or 1 extra battery? What is the max battery capacity you can put on the mavic without problems?
I believe there is still no comparisons being done between the different designs, and theoies, and what not.
And the battery mods, what should the general public be aware of when trying to use the mod which is now on sale from MaxxUAV and other sites. I didn't find any explanations on how to use them properly. i.e. how to connect and power on/ how the the mavic deals with the extra capacity? Will the DJI Go App calculate for extra capacity? and what not? And what is max pay load or extra weight the mavic can carry without afftecting its flight performance too much or what is the best capacity to weight ratio for the mavic to have two or 1 extra battery? What is the max battery capacity you can put on the mavic without problems?
All good questions that I've been trying to figure out so people use this mod safely. At least MaxxUAV mentions something I've already pointed in a previous edit post and does say what pins it connects to.
They say on the add that "If you use both, you need two 3S batteries of same capacity", so are they saying if you only use one the capacity doesn't matter?
At least they have some kind of instructions and say that Adapter must be mounted on pin 2,3 and 5,6 from the left. (Connecting to the wrong pin WILL cause damage and your Mavic) You can find the PIN numbers the talk about on the charger, or follow the pictures they have I guess.
So they give more information then I've seen so far. I don't know if the mavic track battery capacity the same as the phantoms do and if it needs reset like some of the phantom battery mods? I still don't understand the LED statement. It says the LED is for letting you know when to connect the aux batteries. So do they expect you to run the mavic battery all the way down first then connect the AUX batteries?
And in my opinion all these mods are a little to early without proper testing and reverse engineering, the battery mod isn't worth more then $5 with the LED.
I'll make you one for $30, but I won't tell you how it works or if it works, lol. Give it another month and some other site will make the same thing for less until they will be selling for $5 or $10. Still no instructions included for that price, instructions are $50 extra,
As for max payload when I last researched it I could only find one thing about it on this video. He pulled a little over 2 lbs but also was receiving a battery over current error that was now logged to the mavic if it went to DJI for repairs. But he also only did a short run with a load, that's not to say it can take a 2lb payload the whole flight?
I did find a more recent video on a payload drop add on and they drop a first aid kit, but it was also probably empty since they don't disclose any max weight payload either.
The payload will matter, you could be over driving the motors and other components and DJI is monitoring everything these days so I think they will see it in the logs. I think they log and monitor everything for safety to prevent failures and also so they won't need to cover something under manufacture warranty if they suspect it was caused by something you did. Seems like a big risk for a lot of money to just get a little gain.
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The radio mod was done by Paul
Schaefer in Sebastian Florida,
There is no shop that I'm aware of in New Jersey for this .
Let me know if you need his link
WheelzWorld
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Somebody said it "seemed more stable" with the extra batteries giving some weight but is there a sweet spot?
Or a known max weight that the mavic handles correctly while flying? Without affecting too much the controls?
Or a known max weight that the mavic handles correctly while flying? Without affecting too much the controls?
Vilco
Well-Known Member
The one oayload dropper video releases from the left and you can see the mavic fighting to stay to level.
I would keep any weight level and as even as possible to the center. Not only won't the mavic fight less, but the less it fights the more battery time you will have. It's the same concept as why the mavic gets longer flights times when in motion, and less time when hovering because it's using more sensors and constantly trying to keep its self level and in the same spot when hovering.
Well it's empty but still weighs 1lb and awkwardly big.
Looks like he tied the string dead center also, good move on his part. I think he was lucky the string was long or it could have kept climbing if he forgot to turn off the bottom sensors, I've seen it happen.
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