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Sorry guys but I going to throw this 1 out there too and I’ll be done for a few days modified class @beanbubba thanks
OK, I will update the board now that you are done for the moment :)

If you think you are done for a while, please post a video for your best run. Thanks and nice flying sir!
 
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We have been debating the Mavic2 and sport or non-sport mode for long range flying and the jury is still out. The last 2 flights of our modified class champion seems to rule in the favor of slower flying is most efficient (34 versus 40 mph).

Would love to hear others commentary after examining his airdata logs.
 
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We have been debating the Mavic2 and sport or non-sport mode for long range flying and the jury is still out. The last 2 flights of our modified class champion seems to rule in the favor of slower flying is most efficient (34 versus 40 mph).

Would love to hear others commentary after examining his airdata logs.
5600rpm and PWM % in the low 40s. I run the same rpm and power on the way out but travelling 13.5-14.5m/s due to wind.

Winter air is also amazing up here and DA almost reached -3k ft. 20190205_222612.jpeg20190206_120317.jpeg
 
Battery chilled while charging and then warmed to 50c.

Top stock battery M2P flights to date. 10km out and back is my standard test flight to check wind etc.

3832km on this bird making it the most reliable I've owned.


Screenshot_20190205-201936.jpegScreenshot_20190206-122442.jpegScreenshot_20190206-122648.jpegScreenshot_20190206-122657.jpegScreenshot_20190206-122707.jpegScreenshot_20190206-122524.jpeg
 
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How can you see pwm stats on a standard M2P/Z

I see rpm on the controller, but in the 100’s (is it a x10 gauge?)

I’ve noticed that low to mid 500’s seems to give me the best distance(also coincides with no wind) or high 400’s if I’m with a tailwind.

I just run p mode with sensors off and max throttle.

Have you tested your drone ‘box stock’ to see what distance your battery methods can produce.

I’m in Aussie summer, so my flights are in the 30-38 degree Celsius ambient range. Lower temps mean it’s too windy and higher is too hot.

I just take the battery out the drone, wait a few mins and then put it on charge. Often I don’t fly again for a few days, so the battery likely lost a small portion of its charge.

Ps- are these batteries the ‘high voltage’ Li-Po cells? As I notice mine charge to 4.35-4.36, where conventional lipos don’t like going over 4.2(4.15 ideally)

Cheers.
 
How can you see pwm stats on a standard M2P/Z

I see rpm on the controller, but in the 100’s (is it a x10 gauge?)

I’ve noticed that low to mid 500’s seems to give me the best distance(also coincides with no wind) or high 400’s if I’m with a tailwind.

I just run p mode with sensors off and max throttle.

Have you tested your drone ‘box stock’ to see what distance your battery methods can produce.

I’m in Aussie summer, so my flights are in the 30-38 degree Celsius ambient range. Lower temps mean it’s too windy and higher is too hot.

I just take the battery out the drone, wait a few mins and then put it on charge. Often I don’t fly again for a few days, so the battery likely lost a small portion of its charge.

Ps- are these batteries the ‘high voltage’ Li-Po cells? As I notice mine charge to 4.35-4.36, where conventional lipos don’t like going over 4.2(4.15 ideally)

Cheers.

PWM % is what's displayed in sport mode. When doing a hover test, the motor wattage stays constant but the power % climbs as voltage drops until it hits 100% at the end of the pack and the bird drops out of the air.

RPM/10 is what's displayed on the RC.

Try speeding up with the wind until RPMs match your no-wind RPM. I've found a small gain by going a little quicker than stock P mode speed. 14.5m/s in still air. Pay attention to battery % vs distance on every flight and what % you land at.

The M2 cells are 4.40v each and I'd recommend charging 3 lights and then top off before flying next time. Store the batteries in a cool place and charge cold. I'm about to put the 108th cycle on one of my packs and it still knocks out 20km flights.
 
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PWM % is what's displayed in sport mode. When doing a hover test, the motor wattage stays constant but the power % climbs as voltage drops until it hits 100% at the end of the pack and the bird drops out of the air.

RPM/10 is what's displayed on the RC.

Try speeding up with the wind until RPMs match your no-wind RPM. I've found a small gain by going a little quicker than stock P mode speed. 14.5m/s in still air. Pay attention to battery % vs distance on every flight and what % you land at.

The M2 cells are 4.40v each and I'd recommend charging 3 lights and then top off before flying next time. Store the batteries in a cool place and charge cold. I'm about to put the 108th cycle on one of my packs and it still knocks out 20km flights.
Whats the lowest cell voltage your 108 battery has ever seen?
 
Whats the lowest cell voltage your 108 battery has ever seen?
3.1 or so. Average 3.5 to 3.6 just before touchdown. I just landed a 10,250m flight at 1% on an 85 cycle pack. 3.53v I think.

I have M1 packs with 60 cycles that are noticeably down on power.
 
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3.1 or so. Average 3.5 to 3.6 just before touchdown. I just landed a 10,250m flight at 1% on an 85 cycle pack. 3.53v I think.

I have M1 packs with 60 cycles that are noticeably down on power.

Do you think it just a testament of 4S vs 3S? I know the 3s phantom 2 bats don't take near the beating or last as many cycles that the p3's do
 
Do you think it just a testament of 4S vs 3S? I know the 3s phantom 2 bats don't take near the beating or last as many cycles that the p3's do
Lower current draw should help, and possibly lower IR as the M2 batteries cool much more in flight.
 
Congratulations on your flight Aumoe, i'm glad everything was safe and worked out well. I know this is the new suicide run because as explained you have to do it this way with the Mavs because of the distance limit. There's so many talented flyers here I would encourage you to pick up a cheap cheap P3/4 and use the antennas and batteries that you already have and experience a real heart pounding suicide flight of being out 100,000 feet from your person relying on your signal only. It seems to me its the only real glory in a suicide run. It's hard to imagine it even being called a distance flight when you're not that far away from the aircraft. Just thoughts. Thanks for sharing and listening Aumoe [emoji41]
 
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Thanks bro and I'm not certain but it shows up when the wind is strong enough to slow down the drone . I got it on mavic PP sometimes as well
 
Hey guys, got really tied up at the day job the last week. Who all needs a leaderboard update?
 
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What is the "not enough force /
ESC motor error" that pops up several times at the end of your flight, and why? I'm not familiar with that message
I see that under heavy load and wind and the motors will be very hot when you land. It's for sure an indicator that you are pushing the bird near its power limit. And depending on the wind direction both the rear or one of the rear motors will be very hot.
 
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Congratulations on your flight Aumoe, i'm glad everything was safe and worked out well. I know this is the new suicide run because as explained you have to do it this way with the Mavs because of the distance limit. There's so many talented flyers here I would encourage you to pick up a cheap cheap P3/4 and use the antennas and batteries that you already have and experience a real heart pounding suicide flight of being out 100,000 feet from your person relying on your signal only. It seems to me its the only real glory in a suicide run. It's hard to imagine it even being called a distance flight when you're not that far away from the aircraft. Just thoughts. Thanks for sharing and listening Aumoe [emoji41]

@dirtybum makes good points. I have spent an inordinate amount of time thinking about this topic and until the distance limit is figured out, I have an idea that might make for a challenging twist.

1) Rename the SUICIDE class the CHASE class (self explanatory).
2) Remove the SUICIDE class from the board until the distance limit is figured out.
3) In the UNLIMITED class change the pilot position rule to mandate the pilot and RC must pick a single fixed position for the entire flight. With the goal to position yourself half way between the takeoff spot and the turn spot. This will require you to track the bird with your directional antenna as it flies over you. The goal and purpose of all this will allow us to double the distance limit (not to mention the added challenge of antenna tracking the bird and a geology to be able to takeoff/land from 59,000 feet away).

Anyone have thoughts on this?
 
Hey guys, got really tied up at the day job the last week. Who all needs a leaderboard update?
Yeah it would be nice if you could find time to update the leaderboards :) thanks
 
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Its it's your call obviously, to label it suicide/chase would be suitable. Someone who goes out the limit and doesn't quite make it back might still want to post there just to get their name on the board.
 
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