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Photos look like trash

NOS77: Many droners use an iPad exclusively to edit and manage their images and videos. Lumafusion is the app most use and it's about twenty bones. People here rave about how easy it is to do the same thing we do on computers with the iPad, or allegedly so anyway. :) And, Adobe Lightroom MOBILE is also a really good suggestion. You might think about giving one or both of those a shot if you don't have a desktop or notebook confuser.

Anyway, the advice to stick with JPG files for now is a good one and don't even worry about video until you get the still photo business all figured out. Lumafusion, Lightroom Mobile, or Photoshop Mobile are some of the best mobile apps to use, or so I've read.

Thank you
 
I think..... that I have it figured out. I learned today that if you upload photos from the SD to usb-c with the over priced tool from Apple, you lose resolution. Also dumb me I didn’t know that when you upload to iPad the picture you see still needs software to display it in full resolution. I decided to upload full res photos to Windows laptop and put on google drive then downloaded the photo to my iPad Pro from google drive. I then used Afterlight to open the photo (in full res and RAW) and from there was able to color correct. I have attached a photo that “I think” is full res and made all the difference. I apologize for being short yesterday, I have been wrestling with this for 2 months and was close to giving up on this great hobby. I also do use LumaFusion for video editing.

Thanks All,
Michael AfterlightImage.JPG
 
NOS: Yep, got figured it out and those are the correct images. Glad to see you're on the right track and the sunset image is very nice.
 
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I think..... that I have it figured out. I learned today that if you upload photos from the SD to usb-c with the over priced tool from Apple, you lose resolution. Also dumb me I didn’t know that when you upload to iPad the picture you see still needs software to display it in full resolution. I decided to upload full res photos to Windows laptop and put on google drive then downloaded the photo to my iPad Pro from google drive. I then used Afterlight to open the photo (in full res and RAW) and from there was able to color correct. I have attached a photo that “I think” is full res and made all the difference. I apologize for being short yesterday, I have been wrestling with this for 2 months and was close to giving up on this great hobby. I also do use LumaFusion for video editing.

Thanks All,
Michael View attachment 66927

No - you have still misunderstood the problem. You do not lose any resolution when you upload to the iPad - you just can't use the built-in Photos app to display or edit those RAW images. If you had opened them on the iPad with any raw image editor it would have worked fine.
 
Please post a snapshot of your directory with your M2P files. See example below. Added some fields to the File Explorer by right clicking on the File Explorer tab line where Name Date Type and Size are listed. A new window pops up and select More... at the bottom. You can place a check mark or UN-Check the header items you want listed. I've added a few to the attached listing that gives specifics about the camera setting for each picture (JPG File)

Please post 2 snapshots, first a snapshot of your files sitting on your SD Card and second post a snapshot of the (computer's) folder once you've saved the files from the SD Card to your computer.

M2P File Attrb.JPG
 
No why would you think that?.
Your camera can adjust the shutter speed and aperture to vary the amount of light coming through and get proper exposure.
You don't need to put sunglasses on it at all.
If you are shooting stills, unless you have a particular reason to want a slower shutter speed than otherwise possible, there is no need to use ND filters on your drone.
It depends. I have found that once you get about F8, which is not the top aperture, the image starts to suffer from reduction in image quality. So I have regularly used ND16 while flying in full sun. With the ultra wide lens, I usually shoot around F4 or F5.6 and that still gets me a decent shutter speed and produces the best images (IMHO)
 
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It depends. I have found that once you get about F8, which is not the top aperture, the image starts to suffer from reduction in image quality. So I have regularly used ND16 while flying in full sun. With the ultra wide lens, I usually shoot around F4 or F5.6 and that still gets me a decent shutter speed and produces the best images (IMHO)

But at ISO 100 you never need to go to F8, let alone beyond it. The shutter speed goes to 1/8000 s, which is faster than you will ever need.
 
I am taking memory card out and transferring to iPad via SD to USB-C
Try using a real computer. The ipad probably is too weak to handle the full resolution pics. Not everything can be done on a tablet.
 
No - you have still misunderstood the problem. You do not lose any resolution when you upload to the iPad - you just can't use the built-in Photos app to display or edit those RAW images. If you had opened them on the iPad with any raw image editor it would have worked fine.

Oh ok. Man I’m all twisted up with this thing. Never knew photography was so challenging.
 
Try using a real computer. The ipad probably is too weak to handle the full resolution pics. Not everything can be done on a tablet.

Yeah I’m so close to taking this iPad back and going with a MacBook.
 
Oh ok. Man I’m all twisted up with this thing. Never knew photography was so challenging.

Yeah I’m so close to taking this iPad back and going with a MacBook.

Either will do just fine - but you need a raw editor, such as Affinity Photo, on your iPad.
 
Yeah I’m so close to taking this iPad back and going with a MacBook.

I use an iPad Pro (1st gen) exclusively. I transfer 4K video and edit in iMovie, render in 4K, and view them on my 4K TV without ever leaving the iPad. Easy to learn, easy to use, and works flawlessly every time.
 
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It depends. I have found that once you get about F8, which is not the top aperture, the image starts to suffer from reduction in image quality. So I have regularly used ND16 while flying in full sun. With the ultra wide lens, I usually shoot around F4 or F5.6 and that still gets me a decent shutter speed and produces the best images (IMHO)

Slapping an ND filter on your camera only forces a slower shutter speed.
It does nothing to change the look of the image and "produce the best images".
You are ignoring the shutter speed as a way of controlling how much light gets to the sensor.
One more time ...
If you are shooting stills, unless you have a particular reason to want a slower shutter speed than otherwise possible, there is no need to use ND filters on your drone.
 
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Oh ok. Man I’m all twisted up with this thing. Never knew photography was so challenging.
Your problem was that you were shooting raw images but didn't have software that could open them - that's all.

Do you even need to shoot raw images?
Probably not - jpg images are fine for most photographers, most of the time ... and a lot simpler for people without a lot of experience.
Don't be fooled by forum talk and think that you need to shoot raw images.
Switch your camera settings to shoot jpg only and things will be easy (and you won't fill your iPad with large raw images that you still can't open anyway).
 
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Try using a real computer. The ipad probably is too weak to handle the full resolution pics.
You don't know what you're talking about.

My iPad Pro has a processor in it that's better than most laptops. I edit 4k video from the Mavic2Pro shot in H.265, apply LUTs and render the videos nearly in real time. And it handles RAW files like they're nothing.
 
View attachment 66836

I have attached the file directly from my SD card (I think). Downloaded to iPad from SD.

NOS77, The image is vastly over-sharpened in the DJI app. Set sharpening to 0 or 1. I ran the image through Topaz A.I. GiGapixel to enlarge the base image and resolve some of the over sharpening. I finished processing in Skylum Luminar 3 and Aurora HDR. I highly recommend shooting in RAW instead of JPEG and shoot in the largest image size possible to give more latitude in post. Lightroom for the iPAD can deal with RAW images.DJI_0764 (1).JPG
 
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