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DiscoverSpain

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Shoot mith a Mini 3 and Panasonic Lumix S5 24-105mm f4


As I wrote in the title of the post, the video is not yet published so I would like to receive feedback about it, possible improvements, changes, ....etc.

Thanks in advance!
 

Shoot mith a Mini 3 and Panasonic Lumix S5 24-105mm f4

As I wrote in the title of the post, the video is not yet published so I would like to receive feedback about it, possible improvements, changes, ....etc.

Thanks in advance!


Sorry, I have edited the original post to link the correct video.
 
Sorry, I have edited the original post to link the correct video.
Nice job. Two things come to mind if I were doing it. I would use a typical fade in transition between clips and the music has enough changes that you could time the changes to the cuts such that they happened in sync to the music in many areas. Regardless of that, it's very well done.
 
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Nice job. Two things come to mind if I were doing it. I would use a typical fade in transition between clips and the music has enough changes that you could time the changes to the cuts such that they happened in sync to the music in many areas. Regardless of that, it's very well done.

The video already has 2 transitions that I think add drama and impact. If not, I've done it wrong. I don't see that adding transitions between all/almost all the clips adds anything to the video.

Where don't you see the picture and music synchronised? It's supposed to be. Can you tell me in which cuts (the timming) and where you would do it?

Thanks for for suggestions!
 
Your work is always impeccable. At 3:00 there is a statue on the top of a tower, but the view is so brief one cannot see what it is. I would edit to allow the eye to focus on the statue before lowering the view. If, like me, you have already given us what you have, I would cut out the statue altogether. Agree on the fade between clips. Thanks for posting. Beautifully done.
 
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Your work is always impeccable. At 3:00 there is a statue on the top of a tower, but the view is so brief one cannot see what it is. I would edit to allow the eye to focus on the statue before lowering the view. If, like me, you have already given us what you have, I would cut out the statue altogether. Agree on the fade between clips. Thanks for posting. Beautifully done.

The statue is a bit of a willy-nilly situation: the angle is very bad and I didn't include it because then the cut of the clip would fall in a strange place on the bell tower. I'll give it a try and see if something better can be done.

Thank you very much for taking the time to watch the video and comment.
 
The video already has 2 transitions that I think add drama and impact. If not, I've done it wrong. I don't see that adding transitions between all/almost all the clips adds anything to the video.

Where don't you see the picture and music synchronised? It's supposed to be. Can you tell me in which cuts (the timming) and where you would do it?

Thanks for for suggestions!
I agree with your approach. I read that comment while watching and was thinking "I don't think these shots need transitions, until there's a thematic change or something" and then right after that there was a transition from the drone footage to the regular footage and I thought that was exactly right.

I just had one question...for the handheld panning shots, are you actually panning or just doing a pan-and-zoom in software? I assume software, but if not I'd love to know what tripod/gimbal you're using!
 
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I agree with your approach. I read that comment while watching and was thinking "I don't think these shots need transitions, until there's a thematic change or something" and then right after that there was a transition from the drone footage to the regular footage and I thought that was exactly right.

Good to know. Thanks!

I just had one question...for the handheld panning shots, are you actually panning or just doing a pan-and-zoom in software? I assume software, but if not I'd love to know what tripod/gimbal you're using!

I make the panoramas by moving the camera, without it being mounted on a tripod or gimbal, I do it by hand. It must be said that the camera body is stabilised, as is the lens I used in this video, and to this must be added the stabilisation in the editing.
In the video, there is only one zoom made digitally, the one that can be seen at 1:20.

Thank you very much for commenting!
 
Good to know. Thanks!



I make the panoramas by moving the camera, without it being mounted on a tripod or gimbal, I do it by hand. It must be said that the camera body is stabilised, as is the lens I used in this video, and to this must be added the stabilisation in the editing.
In the video, there is only one zoom made digitally, the one that can be seen at 1:20.

Thank you very much for commenting!
Well it looks very good for handheld! What tool are you using to stabilize the handheld footage? I tried stabilizing some iPhone footage with some software, I can't remember which, and it looked absolutely terrible.
 
Well it looks very good for handheld! What tool are you using to stabilize the handheld footage? I tried stabilizing some iPhone footage with some software, I can't remember which, and it looked absolutely terrible.

I do the complete editing of all my videos with Davinci Resolve Studio (the paid version). There is a free version, but it has some limitations, and I don't know if one of them is stabilisation.

Keep in mind that to edit a 4K video, you need fast disks (SSD), minimum 16Gb of RAM, a powerful graphic card with at least 8GB of memory.

If you can't test the free version and you want to see the results before you pay, you can upload some clips you want to stabilize and send me the links. I'll send them back to you stabilised.
 
I do the complete editing of all my videos with Davinci Resolve Studio (the paid version). There is a free version, but it has some limitations, and I don't know if one of them is stabilisation.

Keep in mind that to edit a 4K video, you need fast disks (SSD), minimum 16Gb of RAM, a powerful graphic card with at least 8GB of memory.

If you can't test the free version and you want to see the results before you pay, you can upload some clips you want to stabilize and send me the links. I'll send them back to you stabilised.
I have an M2 Macbook Pro and use Premier Pro, always working with 5.4k or 4k video, so I'm no stranger to video editing with big files...but I haven't used PP to stabilize footage yet since 99% of my footage is shot with some type of gimbal or is already stabilized via Rocksteady or Hypersmooth (I'm going to try Gyroflow in my next outing with my O3 Air Unit quad instead of Rocksteady).

But I was thinking of using my mirrorless Fuji X-T3 for video and my only experience with video editor-based stabilization was iPhone footage in Filmora and, like I said, I was not happy with the results. But I will try the stablization in Premier and see how I like it.
 
I have an M2 Macbook Pro and use Premier Pro, always working with 5.4k or 4k video, so I'm no stranger to video editing with big files...but I haven't used PP to stabilize footage yet since 99% of my footage is shot with some type of gimbal or is already stabilized via Rocksteady or Hypersmooth (I'm going to try Gyroflow in my next outing with my O3 Air Unit quad instead of Rocksteady).

But I was thinking of using my mirrorless Fuji X-T3 for video and my only experience with video editor-based stabilization was iPhone footage in Filmora and, like I said, I was not happy with the results. But I will try the stablization in Premier and see how I like it.

I guess Premiere Pro's stabilisation will be much better than Filmora's so good luck!
 
I have an M2 Macbook Pro and use Premier Pro, always working with 5.4k or 4k video, so I'm no stranger to video editing with big files...but I haven't used PP to stabilize footage yet since 99% of my footage is shot with some type of gimbal or is already stabilized via Rocksteady or Hypersmooth (I'm going to try Gyroflow in my next outing with my O3 Air Unit quad instead of Rocksteady).

But I was thinking of using my mirrorless Fuji X-T3 for video and my only experience with video editor-based stabilization was iPhone footage in Filmora and, like I said, I was not happy with the results. But I will try the stablization in Premier and see how I like it.
Looking at the same MacBook Pro, a M2 Max. Any chance you shoot in Pro Res, and how does it handle/edit those really big files? Thanks. Tom
 
Looking at the same MacBook Pro, a M2 Max. Any chance you shoot in Pro Res, and how does it handle/edit those really big files? Thanks. Tom

Sorry, I don't have the possibility to shoot in Pro Res, I would need an Atomos Ninja or similar, which I don't have, nor do I want to complicate the setup and add weight.
What I can tell you is that I know someone who shoots in Pro Res and uses a Mac Book Air M1, together with FCP, for editing.
 
Looking at the same MacBook Pro, a M2 Max. Any chance you shoot in Pro Res, and how does it handle/edit those really big files? Thanks. Tom
I don't work with Pro Res, with the exception of trying out some Pro Res shots with my iphone...but I didn't notice any issues with them and the M2 certainly has no issues with my Air2S 5.4k video. And my understanding is that, overall, Pro Res is less CPU intensive because there's less compression? Or maybe I've misunderstood. In any case, the M2 (mine is the Pro, not a Max) cuts through it all like butter. I absolutely love it. I was doing editing on my Windows gaming laptop because my old Macbook Air could barely play 4k video, much less edit, but the screen on my gaming laptop is terrible for video editing. Now I can edit on my couch on battery for hours...it's marvelous.
 
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I don't work with Pro Res, with the exception of trying out some Pro Res shots with my iphone...but I didn't notice any issues with them and the M2 certainly has no issues with my Air2S 5.4k video. And my understanding is that, overall, Pro Res is less CPU intensive because there's less compression? Or maybe I've misunderstood. In any case, the M2 (mine is the Pro, not a Max) cuts through it all like butter. I absolutely love it. I was doing editing on my Windows gaming laptop because my old Macbook Air could barely play 4k video, much less edit, but the screen on my gaming laptop is terrible for video editing. Now I can edit on my couch on battery for hours...it's marvelous.
Thanks for this! Yes the true portability as the batttery life is longer is testament to the efficiency of the silicon chipset. To me a laptop is not a laptop if it always has to be plugged in to edit video🙄. I love how YouTubers test powerfull PC based laptops against M2 MacBooks and always talk about how great the PC is, BUT the PC based machine is always plugged in and the Mac is running off its battery. Laptops should be portable👍
 
Some really great footage. Nicely composed on both land and aerial shots. I might suggest that you cut the slow panning shots to about 2 to 3 seconds. I know this is cruel because we love our videos so much. Also my suggestion would be to make a cut where the inbound and outbound videos are in motion. It looks weird when a cut is made from a stationary to moving video. I usually have still to still and moving to moving cuts. If a cut doesn't work them a cross fade may work. Length of fade depending upon emotion and feel. I find that when using a fade to white transition it is best at about 5-6 frames. The more concise the video the better. People have thew attention span of a flee in heat.

I have been experimenting using DJI d-cine setting on my Mini 3 Pro and doing the color correction using LUTs, curves, etc. Not sure it is worth it but I am learning. In all of my work I use Adobe Premier, Illustrator and Photoshop and a few other cool apps.

Be well, fly safe and keep up the great videos.
 
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Some really great footage. Nicely composed on both land and aerial shots. I might suggest that you cut the slow panning shots to about 2 to 3 seconds. I know this is cruel because we love our videos so much.

First of all, thanks for the compliment on the footage and composition of the video.


I don't think it's a good idea to cut the slow pans in 2 or 3 seconds because:

1.- It would not give almost no time to watch them.
2.- In many of them, you would not be able to appreciate the object of the shot as different areas of it are shown progressively.

Also my suggestion would be to make a cut where the inbound and outbound videos are in motion. It looks weird when a cut is made from a stationary to moving video. I usually have still to still and moving to moving cuts. If a cut doesn't work them a cross fade may work. Length of fade depending upon emotion and feel. I find that when using a fade to white transition it is best at about 5-6 frames. The more concise the video the better. People have thew attention span of a flee in heat.

As you can read in many of my other comments, I'm not a fan of adding transitions to a video if they don't add anything to it. In this case, I don't think it would add anything, but thanks for the suggestion.

I agree that the more precise a video is, in general, the more attention will be paid to it, but in my case, I give each video its own rhythm: sometimes I feel like making quick videos, like this one:


And other times, I feel like making slow videos.

In general, I don't think that the pace of the video, the length of the shots, whether it has transitions or not, etc. will change the number of views it will get on YouTube ..... but rather, it will be whether the YouTube algorithm likes it or not and will show it to the right audience.

I have been experimenting using DJI d-cine setting on my Mini 3 Pro and doing the color correction using LUTs, curves, etc. Not sure it is worth it but I am learning. In all of my work I use Adobe Premier, Illustrator and Photoshop and a few other cool apps.

Be well, fly safe and keep up the great videos.

Same to you and thanks for watching the video and making suggestions.
 
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