White Balance Card
- Thread starter JRHallJr
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brett8883
Well-Known Member
It gets a little tricky because the light on the ground is not the same as up in the air but you would hold up the grey card and set your white balance manually as best as you can get it and then take a picture of the grey card with the Mavic. You would then go take your shot.
In post in Lightroom for example you would select both photos or all the photos in that series and go to the picture you took of the grey card. Use the white balance dropper and select the grey on the card to be the reference for the white balance tool.
Honestly it probably wouldn’t have made any difference in that shot what so ever. It’s really for difficult dynamic scenes like sun set where there is actually a hue on everything because it basically impossible to eye ball what technically the white balance should have been.
THE CYBORG
Well-Known Member
I used a grey card when I was into 35mm photography many moons ago but it could be difficult with a flying camera, no harm in trying it.
Nice picture by the way
Nice picture by the way
The WB in your image looks completely fine - certainly within the realm of personal preference. DJI's auto WB is actually pretty good - I've used many cameras that are much worse.
If you shoot RAW, WB is not baked into the image (like it is in a JPEG) and you can change it to whatever you want after the fact with no downside or quality loss. The WB also has nothing to do with the exposure, just the color temperature. It really doesn't matter what your WB is at the time of the shot if you shoot RAW, it can be completely off and you can fix it in 1 click later. It's the exact same amount of work to fix a WB that is 5% off or 100% off, so try not to worry about it too much at the time of the shoot if you know you will be tweaking it in post.
The best solution is something like the Colorchecker Passport. It is the first, and most important step in my post processing routine for both my professional "traditional" photography as well as my drone photography. Not only will it give you a custom profile for objectively perfect color, but you can also tweak WB after the fact very precisely. It's dead simple to use, you just take a picture with the Colorchecker in it under the approximate lighting conditions you will be flying in, and in 2 clicks you get perfect or near perfect color in post. You then batch-apply the profile to all images taken in the same conditions. You can make individual profiles for the small color differences between different filters, lighting scenarios, times of day, etc. and get as granular as you like (cloudy, overcast, sun, sunset, sunrise, ND4, ND8, etc. etc.) You only have to do that once.
Further to the custom color profile you make, as long as you have a photo of the Colorchecker, you can use it to correct or tweak WB across as many photos as you want taken under the same lighting conditions.
What I do is just stand in the same light as I'll be flying in, hold out the Colorchecker, and take a picture of myself. After that, it doesn't matter what the picture control settings or WB settings are because with the RAW file I can correct very close to objectively ideal color/WB in 2 seconds after the fact with no consequence.
It looks like this and costs around $100 - probably the single best investment I have ever made in photography, and without question the biggest post-processing time saver:
If you shoot RAW, WB is not baked into the image (like it is in a JPEG) and you can change it to whatever you want after the fact with no downside or quality loss. The WB also has nothing to do with the exposure, just the color temperature. It really doesn't matter what your WB is at the time of the shot if you shoot RAW, it can be completely off and you can fix it in 1 click later. It's the exact same amount of work to fix a WB that is 5% off or 100% off, so try not to worry about it too much at the time of the shoot if you know you will be tweaking it in post.
The best solution is something like the Colorchecker Passport. It is the first, and most important step in my post processing routine for both my professional "traditional" photography as well as my drone photography. Not only will it give you a custom profile for objectively perfect color, but you can also tweak WB after the fact very precisely. It's dead simple to use, you just take a picture with the Colorchecker in it under the approximate lighting conditions you will be flying in, and in 2 clicks you get perfect or near perfect color in post. You then batch-apply the profile to all images taken in the same conditions. You can make individual profiles for the small color differences between different filters, lighting scenarios, times of day, etc. and get as granular as you like (cloudy, overcast, sun, sunset, sunrise, ND4, ND8, etc. etc.) You only have to do that once.
Further to the custom color profile you make, as long as you have a photo of the Colorchecker, you can use it to correct or tweak WB across as many photos as you want taken under the same lighting conditions.
What I do is just stand in the same light as I'll be flying in, hold out the Colorchecker, and take a picture of myself. After that, it doesn't matter what the picture control settings or WB settings are because with the RAW file I can correct very close to objectively ideal color/WB in 2 seconds after the fact with no consequence.
It looks like this and costs around $100 - probably the single best investment I have ever made in photography, and without question the biggest post-processing time saver:
I have a Colorchecker Passport, but I find it lacking in size. If you have the real estate in your bag, I would suggest a Colorchecker Classic instead.
[Edit] Here's my Colorchecker PassportPassport Photo over a Colorchecker Video. The program uses the right side to serve as basis for calibration. The left side gives you some chips for you to bias your white balance with. For aerial photography, you'd want a larger target.
[Edit] Here's my Colorchecker PassportPassport Photo over a Colorchecker Video. The program uses the right side to serve as basis for calibration. The left side gives you some chips for you to bias your white balance with. For aerial photography, you'd want a larger target.
Last edited:
brett8883
Well-Known Member
Yea I probably need to get one of those. @CanadaDrone you should make a 10-bit HLG LUT for us from that ???The WB in your image looks completely fine - certainly within the realm of personal preference. DJI's auto WB is actually pretty good - I've used many cameras that are much worse.
If you shoot RAW, WB is not baked into the image (like it is in a JPEG) and you can change it to whatever you want after the fact with no downside or quality loss. The WB also has nothing to do with the exposure, just the color temperature. It really doesn't matter what your WB is at the time of the shot if you shoot RAW, it can be completely off and you can fix it in 1 click later. It's the exact same amount of work to fix a WB that is 5% off or 100% off, so try not to worry about it too much at the time of the shoot if you know you will be tweaking it in post.
The best solution is something like the Colorchecker Passport. It is the first, and most important step in my post processing routine for both my professional "traditional" photography as well as my drone photography. Not only will it give you a custom profile for objectively perfect color, but you can also tweak WB after the fact very precisely. It's dead simple to use, you just take a picture with the Colorchecker in it under the approximate lighting conditions you will be flying in, and in 2 clicks you get perfect or near perfect color in post. You then batch-apply the profile to all images taken in the same conditions. You can make individual profiles for the small color differences between different filters, lighting scenarios, times of day, etc. and get as granular as you like (cloudy, overcast, sun, sunset, sunrise, ND4, ND8, etc. etc.) You only have to do that once.
Further to the custom color profile you make, as long as you have a photo of the Colorchecker, you can use it to correct or tweak WB across as many photos as you want taken under the same lighting conditions.
What I do is just stand in the same light as I'll be flying in, hold out the Colorchecker, and take a picture of myself. After that, it doesn't matter what the picture control settings or WB settings are because with the RAW file I can correct very close to objectively ideal color/WB in 2 seconds after the fact with no consequence.
It looks like this and costs around $100 - probably the single best investment I have ever made in photography, and without question the biggest post-processing time saver:
No problems with card size for me, and as you allude to, the full size card is a lot more annoying to carry around (though you won't need it every time).
The software is very good at identifying the card accurately even if it is only a small part of the frame, and you can manually adjust the detection area if it's not perfect. I find it easy to fly the drone close enough to you to get a good enough picture of it though.
I've actually never used it for video, but they do have a video-specific version and it's supported by popular programs like DaVinci resolve. You would need to make a different profile/LUT for every lighting scenario, just like for still photos. For still photos though, in my opinion it should be in everyone's "tool box" and works equally well with any RAW image, not just those from the M2P.
If you're looking for the closest to a "one LUT for all" solution for video, this is a very good starting point IMO: SkyGrades Natural LUTs for Mavic 2 Pro
LUTs almost always still need tweaking, but they can get you most of the way there if the starting point is DLog-M. That particular LUT is cheap and has a money back guarantee if you aren't satisfied, and you still get to keep the LUT.
brett8883
Well-Known Member
@CanadaDrone Im talking about a camera LUT for 10 bit HLG HDR which doesn't seem to exist specifically for the Mavic 2 Pro. Yet...
You are the guy with the tools, know how, and eye to do it. Here's all the software you need. cameramanben/LUTCalc
kilomikebravo
Well-Known Member
cy: Like CD, I have the Xrite Passport and use it with all my cameras. As CD said, it's no problem using the smaller version for WB in LR or ACR and to me at least, it's easy to grab a photo of "the day" with the M2 hovering a few feet above the ground. All you need, again as CD said, is the color temperature of the scene. And even if you use that WB for all your footage from that day, the WB won't change substantially and can be tweaked to satisfaction in post. (I also use a WB lens cap on my DSLR that allows me to take a photo with it on and then set a custom WB. I do that too then check it in post with the Passport photo.)
I did look at the Video version but the customer reviews were lousy on build quality. The Passport build quality is quite good and I have none of the complaints mentioned by those who purchased the Video color checker product.
I did look at the Video version but the customer reviews were lousy on build quality. The Passport build quality is quite good and I have none of the complaints mentioned by those who purchased the Video color checker product.
Truth be told I have no desire to shoot in HLG. The displays that can properly display the REC 2020 color gamut are few and far between - some of the best TV's you can buy today, like Vizio's PQ series, Sony XBR900F series, or LG's high-end OLEDs, don't even come close. Maybe in a few more years
brett8883
Well-Known Member
Truth be told I have no desire to shoot in HLG. The displays that can properly display the REC 2020 color gamut are few and far between - some of the best TV's you can buy today, like Vizio's PQ series, Sony XBR900F series, or LG's high-end OLEDs, don't even come close. Maybe in a few more years
Idk @christangey is pretty convincing that it’s worth it shooting in HLG.
johnmeyer
Well-Known Member
How do you get the M2 Pro to read the white card? I saw the "Custom" button, but all you can do is change the Kelvin color setting. I'd love to be able to use a white card, like I do on many of my other cameras, but I can't find any instructions on how to do this.
Can anyone point me in the direction of how to get a custom setting using a white card?
Can anyone point me in the direction of how to get a custom setting using a white card?
Northern_Bob
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One way would be for you to place the white card close enough to completely fill the camera frame. Got to custom settings and dial in the Kelvin setting that makes the white card look neutral without a color cast. Be sure the card is in the same light as the Mavic Will be.
In other words, don't balance the card in shade if you will be photographing in sunlight. Guaranteed to be off color then.
NB
In other words, don't balance the card in shade if you will be photographing in sunlight. Guaranteed to be off color then.
NB
christangey
Well-Known Member
Maybe Brett, but I am probably a rare case as I need to shoot in HLG rec 2020 for my licensing clients, also for me it's all about having a future-proof stock footage archive.
christangey
Well-Known Member
Truth be told I have no desire to shoot in HLG. The displays that can properly display the REC 2020 color gamut are few and far between - some of the best TV's you can buy today, like Vizio's PQ series, Sony XBR900F series, or LG's high-end OLEDs, don't even come close. Maybe in a few more years
and right on cue, just 11 hours ago Apple announced this:
Our first-look photos of Apple’s new Mac Pro and the Pro Display XDR
We took photos and asked a few questions about Apple's new hardware.
arstechnica.com
brett8883
Well-Known Member
and right on cue, just 11 hours ago Apple announced this:
Our first-look photos of Apple’s new Mac Pro and the Pro Display XDR
We took photos and asked a few questions about Apple's new hardware.
Say whatever you want about Apple but nobody can deny they make computers look sexy
brett8883
Well-Known Member
Best you might say is you find them sexy and believe everyone else should.
No denying the performance though.
kilomikebravo
Well-Known Member
Brett: I seem to remember that the last MPB has really serious CPU throttling due to thermal concerns. Perhaps that had something to do with the announcement of a new one when the previous model hasn't been out very long.
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