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kcoleman805

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Heard a lot about different filters and wanted to know if they were a good investment?

I've never used them before but was interested in trying them out if they are worth the time.

If so, what type of filters and what brand are the best to use?
 
They aren't useful for taking photos in most cases. If you're shooting a lot of video, then it would be a good idea to pick up at least an ND8 and an N16. You can find a list of commonly used filters here.
 
Excuse my lack of knowledge, but what do filters actually do for the camera?
 
They aren't useful for taking photos in most cases. If you're shooting a lot of video, then it would be a good idea to pick up at least an ND8 and an N16. You can find a list of commonly used filters here.
So, what happens to the photo when it is taken with the filter on?
 
Excuse my lack of knowledge, but what do filters actually do for the camera?

Filters are an additional way to control the amount of light that hits your cameras sensor.

ND = Neutral Density. The darker the filter the less light it lets into the lens. ND simply reduces the amount of light, ND filters don't change any color balances. Think of ND as car window tint.

There are 3 ways to change the amount of light that hits the sensor of the camera:

- Shutter
- Aperture
- Filters

All 3 will give different results, and all 3 affect each other.

The aperture is a physical ring or collection of blades that open and shut in the lens. Basically; the more open the hole the more light hits the sensor. The smaller the hole, the less light enters the lens and onto the sensor. This is measure in "f-stops". The lower the number, the wider the hole. Higher number = less light (a bit counter-intuitive, I know). The Mavic's "f-stop" is a set 2.2 (quite wide open).

Shutter is electronic and not directly related to the amount of light actually entering the lens/hitting the sensor.

A filter reduces the amount of total light available to the camera's sensor. The aperture cuts light out like a sun-shield but doesn't actually reduce light intensity and the shutter controls how long this light hits the camera's sensor.

There's also ISO but that's a sensitivity setting, not "amount of light" coming in from the outside world setting.

A real world example of filter usage would be a super bright sunny day, no clouds in the sky. Your camera's lens only has a finite ability so you could add an ND filter to further reduce the amount of super bright sun. NDs help with stopping images and video looking washed out or over-exposed.

Obviously, you wouldn't benefit from using ND at night, or where you can control the actual light source.
 
So, what happens to the photo when it is taken with the filter on?
Nothing negative. It's just not needed in most cases since the camera is able to adjust for the current lighting conditions when shooting photos in auto.

Filters could be useful in cases where you're shooting over reflective surfaces (e.g. water) and you're trying to eliminate the glare from the water.
 
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The CPL filter is useful for photos. It cuts down on glare and reflections from glass, water etc and can add saturation.
 
Nothing negative. It's just not needed in most cases since the camera is able to adjust for the current lighting conditions when shooting photos in auto.

Filters could be useful in cases where you're shooting over reflective surfaces (e.g. water) and you're trying to eliminate the glare from the water.
Thanks, that's good to know because I have some Taco filters coming and because I tend to shoot both video and photos on every flight it will be good if the Tacis don't adversely affect the still pix.
 
Filters are an additional way to control the amount of light that hits your cameras sensor.

ND = Neutral Density. The darker the filter the less light it lets into the lens. ND simply reduces the amount of light, ND filters don't change any color balances. Think of ND as car window tint.

There are 3 ways to change the amount of light that hits the sensor of the camera:

- Shutter
- Aperture
- Filters

All 3 will give different results, and all 3 affect each other.

The aperture is a physical ring or collection of blades that open and shut in the lens. Basically; the more open the hole the more light hits the sensor. The smaller the hole, the less light enters the lens and onto the sensor. This is measure in "f-stops". The lower the number, the wider the hole. Higher number = less light (a bit counter-intuitive, I know). The Mavic's "f-stop" is a set 2.2 (quite wide open).

Shutter is electronic and not directly related to the amount of light actually entering the lens/hitting the sensor.

A filter reduces the amount of total light available to the camera's sensor. The aperture cuts light out like a sun-shield but doesn't actually reduce light intensity and the shutter controls how long this light hits the camera's sensor.

There's also ISO but that's a sensitivity setting, not "amount of light" coming in from the outside world setting.

A real world example of filter usage would be a super bright sunny day, no clouds in the sky. Your camera's lens only has a finite ability so you could add an ND filter to further reduce the amount of super bright sun. NDs help with stopping images and video looking washed out or over-exposed.

Obviously, you wouldn't benefit from using ND at night, or where you can control the actual light source.


More clear impossible...!! Thanks!
 
I just bought the 6 pack from PolarPro and am really really happy with them.

I did some research and was doubting between their cinema line and the standard gunmetal line. Apparently, the main difference between the standard filters and their cinema line is a coating that prevents sunrays. I already had ordered a click-on sunhood for the mavic so I figured, my sunrays are already taken care of and went for they gunmetal 6 pack.

Received them this week and love the filters, it really add's quality to the image.

I choose PolarPro cause I remember watching SharkTank a few years ago in The Netherlands, where a young surfdude form CA totally owned the sharks. Those are the best entrepreneurs, similar to how GoPro started. So I wanted to support their development as they were the first with this amazing click on filters idea. But they must be doing really well as I was in San Diego 2 wks back, tried 8 bestbuys to get their filters and they were all sold out. Had to buy them in Holland in a 3rd party store. Cost a bit more, but still a great investment.
 

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I just bought the 6 pack from PolarPro and am really really happy with them.

I did some research and was doubting between their cinema line and the standard gunmetal line. Apparently, the main difference between the standard filters and their cinema line is a coating that prevents sunrays. I already had ordered a click-on sunhood for the mavic so I figured, my sunrays are already taken care of and went for they gunmetal 6 pack.

Received them this week and love the filters, it really add's quality to the image.

I choose PolarPro cause I remember watching SharkTank a few years ago in The Netherlands, where a young surfdude form CA totally owned the sharks. Those are the best entrepreneurs, similar to how GoPro started. So I wanted to support their development as they were the first with this amazing click on filters idea. But they must be doing really well as I was in San Diego 2 wks back, tried 8 bestbuys to get their filters and they were all sold out. Had to buy them in Holland in a 3rd party store. Cost a bit more, but still a great investment.

Thank you for supporting our brand!
-Jeff from PolarPro
 
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I got myself a set (4/8/16/32) of cheap filters. Sunnylife is the brand and made in China. I tried them out today. To hold a 1/50 shutter speed at 24 fps at an overcast sky (Please see attached image).
20ivq4o.jpg
[/IMG] I cycled through all the filters but was only able to achieve close to zero EV when I installed the ND32 filter. Research tells me that I should be able to achieve the close to zero EV by using an 8 or 16 (at most) with this overcast. Did I buy useless filters? Or did I miss anything else?

Thanks in advance.

20ivq4o.jpg
[/IMG]
20ivq4o.jpg
[/IMG]
20ivq4o.jpg
 
I got myself a set (4/8/16/32) of cheap filters. Sunnylife is the brand and made in China. I tried them out today. To hold a 1/50 shutter speed at 24 fps at an overcast sky (Please see attached image).
20ivq4o.jpg
[/IMG] I cycled through all the filters but was only able to achieve close to zero EV when I installed the ND32 filter. Research tells me that I should be able to achieve the close to zero EV by using an 8 or 16 (at most) with this overcast. Did I buy useless filters? Or did I miss anything else?

Thanks in advance.

20ivq4o.jpg
[/IMG]
20ivq4o.jpg
[/IMG]
20ivq4o.jpg
What was your shutter speed at before putting the filter on?
-Jeff from PolarPro
 
What was your shutter speed at before putting the filter on?
-Jeff from PolarPro

Hi Jeff,

Did you mean what was the shutter speed on auto with the filter on? That, I did not check. I'll make sure to take note of that next time.
 
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When folks ask me what ND filters are, I tell them that our pupils can open wider or close smaller to restrict light coming in. The mavic's pupil cannot do this, so he has to wear sunglasses. The brighter the light, the darker the sunglasses.
 
Hi I shot this video using the PolarPro ND 32/PL and I think PolarPro are the best Filters around. I own a set of Pgytech ND Filters. But I think the PolarPro vivid series are just the best!

 
Did a test with a set of Neewer filters . Not very scientific so no comparisons with and without for the CPL and UV filters. Tried a bit with the ND filters although the sun kept spoiling the comparison. Not a lot of difference subjectively but the lowering of the ISO probably helps. I shall leave the 8 ND on for most of the time.
 
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