That's not at all true.
A good Android tablet runs the app at least as well as any good Apple device.
A substandard tablet runs poorly regardless of the operating system.
Don't believe everything you see here.If it is the case Androids are abysmal, what do people recommend as a cheap secondhand iphone tablet with a decent amount of screen real estate (9 or 10 inches) and brightness?
i am disappointed with DJI about this.....
That's true, although it is also the case, based on incidents and flight logs posted on these forums, that Android devices account for a disproportionately large fraction of app issues.
Get a good Android tablet and it runs the app perfectly.
That's all there is to it.
Perfect performance is perfect performance.
Just because someone used an old, cheap, underperforming Android tablet and complained means nothing.
Anyone using an old, underpowered Apple device will also have problems.
Also, you can switch your device, phone/tablet into airplane mode, that will prevent it from looking for updates or from receiving any sort of messages/emails while flying. You don’t need connection on your device, it only works as a screen, the connection is in between the drone and the RC.As you've heard a few times, the app/tablet is not necessary.
If you lose the app and still have signal, you have full control.
Test it yourself in a large open area by disconnecting the cable and see how you still have full control.
The app is fine and runs perfectly on a properly configured tablet if it is fast enough and has enough RAM.
Tablets without sufficient performance will give disappointing performance and glitches.
The day you need RTH is the worst day to start learning how it works.
Go to a large, open area, well away from trees and other obstacles, fly out 100 ft and start practising RTH.
Learn how to initiate RTH, how to cancel it and resume control.
Try shutting down the controller completely to find another way to initiate RTH.
ps. you press and hold (till it starts beeping), just as it says in the manual.
You have to hold it in a stable position for three seconds while holding the left stick down.
Go into your tablet settings and turn off Auto Updates.
With the Mavic Air, you can't. I have had cable disconnections a couple of times but luckily I still had the bird in sight. I dread to think of the day when this would happen and the bird is out of my sight. I guess best bet would bet to try to get the display back up again (either by reconnecting the cable, restarting the app, or both) and initiate a RTH as a last resort.Quick question tho..if u lose ur display and the drone is distant, how can u tell what direction u r flying it..?
With the Mavic Air, you can't. I have had cable disconnections a couple of times but luckily I still had the bird in sight. I dread to think of the day when this would happen and the bird is out of my sight. I guess best bet would bet to try to get the display back up again (either by reconnecting the cable, restarting the app, or both) and initiate a RTH as a last resort.
I would personally prefer to have the display back up again and restore flight telemetry if I can. With flight telemetry down and if you can't see the bird, you are still blind to what is happening. RTH may save the day by itself but RTH with flight telemetry would surely be better I think.Why would RTH be a last resort? This kind of situation is exactly what it was intended for, and it seems like it should be the first resort.
I've run my MA off a cheap moto g6 and a Asus cheap tablet and had no problems other then a little video lag at times.That's not at all true.
A good Android tablet runs the app at least as well as any good Apple device.
A substandard tablet runs poorly regardless of the operating system.
Maybe add strobes to increase VLOS distance?I would personally prefer to have the display back up again and restore flight telemetry if I can. With flight telemetry down and if you can't see the bird, you are still blind to what is happening. RTH may save the day by itself but RTH with flight telemetry would surely be better I think.
Yeah, I have been seriously thinking about that. The MA is practically invisible at about 400 meters, and if i look down on the phone and look up again, it is impossible to find it.Maybe add strobes to increase VLOS distance?
Why would RTH be a last resort? This kind of situation is exactly what it was intended for, and it seems like it should be the first resort.
The other way is to stop by pausing.
Look at your controller distance, fly forward a little, see if the distance goes up or down or neutral, adjust direction by yaw if it's going away or neutral.
Fly a little more forward, do the yaw adjustment until you can see it dropping well in metres (or feet) when going forward, fly forward and it won't be long until you hear / see it.
You also control altitude in the same way, keep it at safe elevation on the controller readout, but drop it as you fly back to suit possible obstacles and distance out.