What video settings do you recommend for recording a construction building using Waypoints?

[hogar315]

What video settings do you recommend for waypoint recording of a construction building (several times per year), where I’ll add transitions in post to create a timelapse effect?

Would 60FPS with a fixed 1/120 shutter speed, ISO 100/200, and fixed white balance work best?

Or would auto settings be better, considering we can’t predict the weather or lighting a month or two in advance? Since I will probably take 5-6 recodings in the next year (every 2-3 months I guess).

I also have ND filters if you think they’d help.

Or is the best approach to try and record all waypoint shots (across all months) during similar weather and lighting conditions (e.g. cloudy days)?

Thanks a lot!

Also, any tips and tricks for this are more than welcome. Thanks!

 

[PhotoDB]

Can't give you too many specifics. I shoot primarily stills for architecture and construction. But one main thing to consider when creating your waypoint settings would be to anticipate how tall your structure is going to be and allow for the height difference you'll need to capture the top of the building - especially if it's a mid- or high-rise building. Good luck.

 

[DJ Wes]

What video settings do you recommend for waypoint recording of a construction building (several times per year), where I’ll add transitions in post to create a timelapse effect?

While video settings are important, there are other considerations for what you are doing that are more important.

I've done a number of constructions sites and I am working on two more year-long projects now. Since no two waypoint sequences will line up perfectly in post, blending them together requires other modifications. You will find that you have to translate one video clip in the X and Y directions relative to the previous video clip to get them to overlap properly. Then, in order to maintain a full video frame, all sequences will need to be scaled up slightly. I find that scaling all video sequences to 115% works well. My workflow includes:

1. Scale all clips to 115%
2. Translate new clips in the X and Y directions to line up with the previous clip
3. Use key frames to smoothly transition from the X and Y offset back to 0,0 by the end of each clip
4. Use either a simple blend or possibly a "smith cut" blend between clips

I try to capture all video sequences on clear/sunny days so that the white balance is consistent. Forget about ND filters unless you have some reason to introduce motion blur (which you probably won't). For what it's worth, I use auto settings for projects like this.

 

[MS Coast]

While video settings are important, there are other considerations for what you are doing that are more important.

I've done a number of constructions sites and I am working on two more year-long projects now. Since no two waypoint sequences will line up perfectly in post, blending them together requires other modifications. You will find that you have to translate one video clip in the X and Y directions relative to the previous video clip to get them to overlap properly. Then, in order to maintain a full video frame, all sequences will need to be scaled up slightly. I find that scaling all video sequences to 115% works well. My workflow includes:

1. Scale all clips to 115%
2. Translate new clips in the X and Y directions to line up with the previous clip
3. Use key frames to smoothly transition from the X and Y offset back to 0,0 by the end of each clip
4. Use either a simple blend or possibly a "smith cut" blend between clips

I try to capture all video sequences on clear/sunny days so that the white balance is consistent. Forget about ND filters unless you have some reason to introduce motion blur (which you probably won't). For what it's worth, I use auto settings for projects like this.

Good information. Thanks.

I'm not understanding why it's desirable to transition back to 0,0 offset at the end of a clip? Why not leave each clip's alignment offset constant for that clip?

 

[DJ Wes]

I'm not understanding why it's desirable to transition back to 0,0 offset at the end of a clip? Why not leave each clip's alignment offset constant for that clip?

While it is not always absolutely necessary, in extreme cases, leaving a clip offset for its entire duration may result in a subsequent clip from filling the frame. For example, if two sequential clips both require a positive X offset, it may leave the last clip slightly off-frame (to the right). I have only encountered this a couple times. To prevent it, I always use key frames to bring each clip back to 0,0 out of habit now. An alternative would be to use a slightly larger scaling factor (120%?). I prefer to keep the scaling to a minimum and I find 115% is sufficient.

 

[Donnie Frank]

What video settings do you recommend for waypoint recording of a construction building (several times per year), where I’ll add transitions in post to create a timelapse effect?

I know this goes without saying, but I'll say it anyway. Definitely make sure you shoot in 4K, not 1080p.

Would 60FPS with a fixed 1/120 shutter speed, ISO 100/200, and fixed white balance work best?

No reason for higher frame rates. In fact, I would suggest 24FPS would look more cinematic in a final edit. Go with native ISO and 1/50 shutter speed if you want a cinematic looking end product. That said...

The toughest part about shooting multiple shots over time is white balance. Winter colors look different from Summer colors. Morning colors look different from afternoon colors, which are again different in the later afternoon / early evening. Auto White Balance will get you in the ballpark. But if you really want accurate color that you don't have to spend a butt-load of time correcting in post, pay attention to White Balance when you shoot. Getting accurate aerial white balance is tough. The easiest way to maintain White Balance continuity is to shoot the same time every day. Noon-1PM was always the sweet spot for me. I paid close attention to shadows. If they look unnaturally blue, CB is too cool.

Or would auto settings be better, considering we can’t predict the weather or lighting a month or two in advance?

Auto settings are horrible because they're based on an exposure average over the entire frame. The falls to crap towards the end of construction when they start putting on a white roof. For me, I found that a -3 Exposure Value (via manual settings) insures you won't blow out the whites. Everything else can be pushed. Even shooting compressed (D-Log)(h.264) nets enough dynamic range to not crush the shadows. I don't believe h.265 gains anything regarding dynamic range.

Since I will probably take 5-6 recodings in the next year (every 2-3 months I guess).

I also have ND filters if you think they’d help.

Does the Mavic 3 have a manual aperture? If so, you won't ND filters. And honestly, if you don't care about motion blur, you can shoot faster shutter speeds to lower EV.

Or is the best approach to try and record all waypoint shots (across all months) during similar weather and lighting conditions (e.g. cloudy days)?

Yes. Avoid cloudy days. Intuitively, this makes for an ideal exposure situation. But realistically, footage looks flat, colorless and lifeless.

Thanks a lot!

Also, any tips and tricks for this are more than welcome. Thanks!

Make your deliverable 1080p. Start your editing session @ 110% zoom. This will give you wiggle room in post to align the footage. You'll find that without RTK you will need to fudge the footage in post to get it to align.

Here's less than perfect footage a client wanted in a rush. But you get the idea.

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