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I'm taking another try at this-how to process 26 image DNG pano

Bridge, Photoshop, and LR merge the images into the pano but you need ACR to open the RAW images. It’s included as a plug-in as part of the software.

Chris
No Chris- I didn't say that. I ASSUME it works in Lightroom, but I have never tried it in Lightroom.I only use Lightroom for LRTimelapse sequences. I am more used to many years of growing with Photoshop and all of its updates. Panos are so easy now with Photoshop CC 2021. The engine is the same and the process is the same though.

For review- here is the copy/paste steps
In Photoshop CC 2021- open Bridge
1) load DNG (RAW) images from the SD card folder into Adobe Bridge
2) select All. (CTRL+A)
3) right click on any image-get a drop down menu- click Merge to Panormama
4) get a merged file which you can tweak with the settings to add sky, etc.
5) Merge- gives you the merged image

I have also tried all of the other suggestions- e.g.: to eliminate imagers that do not belong, do smallgrousp at a time, try only three or four images.

My standard horizontal high resolution panorama with the drone is done as I have previously described- e.g.: three shots with 30 per cent (%) overlap. Save these files, DNG (thus, "save high Rez files in the settings.). Use these 3 files as above in the same process- In Bridge- select all- right click and merge to panorama.

Here is a three shot pano I just worked on for my Montana video. I put the drone up, shot three images with a 30% overlap, uploaded all 3 to Bridge, and followed the steps above.

What do you think?

Dale
Miami
 

Attachments

  • 7-30-2021ndian Creek Drone Panorama.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 9
WOW! It doesn’t stitch on board? Why have a feature you can’t use?
I was going to try this on my Pro 2, but haven’t, yet.
that really would stink, that it has the ability to take the images, but doesn’t have the ability in app, to stitch everything together…
It DOES work on my Mavic 2 Pro! But I cannot seem to get it to synthesize the image on my Mavic 2 Mini.
 
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On Mini 2 there is need to shoot pano in raw. Mini cuts jpg files to 1.5MB -> pano from jpgs has only +-18mpx, from raw +-60mpx. 360° is much greater difference.
Most people shooting panoramas in raw are fooling themselves that they need to.
You can get very good results (and it's much, much simpler) by shooting in jpg.
I very much doubt you could tell the difference in results.
Here's an example:
And it looks even better at full size - 13574 x 5610
331-61a-X5.jpg
 
Ok guys let’s slow up and not get hot headed where I have to deal
with reports and delete post .
Thanks.
 
No Chris- I didn't say that. I ASSUME it works in Lightroom, but I have never tried it in Lightroom.I only use Lightroom for LRTimelapse sequences. I am more used to many years of growing with Photoshop and all of its updates. Panos are so easy now with Photoshop CC 2021. The engine is the same and the process is the same though.

For review- here is the copy/paste steps
In Photoshop CC 2021- open Bridge
1) load DNG (RAW) images from the SD card folder into Adobe Bridge
2) select All. (CTRL+A)
3) right click on any image-get a drop down menu- click Merge to Panormama
4) get a merged file which you can tweak with the settings to add sky, etc.
5) Merge- gives you the merged image

I have also tried all of the other suggestions- e.g.: to eliminate imagers that do not belong, do smallgrousp at a time, try only three or four images.

My standard horizontal high resolution panorama with the drone is done as I have previously described- e.g.: three shots with 30 per cent (%) overlap. Save these files, DNG (thus, "save high Rez files in the settings.). Use these 3 files as above in the same process- In Bridge- select all- right click and merge to panorama.

Here is a three shot pano I just worked on for my Montana video. I put the drone up, shot three images with a 30% overlap, uploaded all 3 to Bridge, and followed the steps above.

What do you think?

Dale
Miami
Dale I was responding to apeel’s post about being confused and he/she was replying to you. My mistake for not clarifying - sorry.

Chris
 
It DOES work on my Mavic 2 Pro! But I cannot seem to get it to synthesize the image on my Mavic 2 Mini.
That really stinks…
I wonder why they’ve done it like that?
It’s strange, that it has the function to take a panorama, with no means of stitching the photos together.
hopefully they can fix the issue in a firmware update.
 
WOW! It doesn’t stitch on board? Why have a feature you can’t use?
I was going to try this on my Pro 2, but haven’t, yet.
that really would stink, that it has the ability to take the images, but doesn’t have the ability in app, to stitch everything together…
I usually use my Mavic 2 Pro to take spherical panoramas, and I never use the in-app stitched panorama because I get batter results stitching the photographs together myself with PTGUI Pro — fewer artifacts, ghosts, etc. as well as more control over the resulting image.

I use my Mavic Mini (not Mini 2) when I can't use the bigger drone, and a really wish it could take panoramas rather than having to shoot them manually because it's fiddly taking all the photographs myself. The ability to click the shutter once and relax while the aircraft does its thing is a convenience I miss!
 
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Most people shooting panoramas in raw are fooling themselves that they need to.
You can get very good results (and it's much, much simpler) by shooting in jpg.
I very much doubt you could tell the difference in results.
Here's an example:
And it looks even better at full size - 13574 x 5610
331-61a-X5.jpg
I used to shoot in Raw but switched to JPEG last year when I realized that I was getting better results.

It's probably my own lack of skill, but I could never manage to correct vignetting and barrel distortion as well as the on-board camera did, which let to artifacts in the resulting panoramas. One day I accidentally shot in JPEG and realized that the panorama was better.

Caveat: I'm almost always shooting multiple exposures and tone-mapping to handle the dynamic range, as I usually have the sun in the shot.
 
Most people shooting panoramas in raw are fooling themselves that they need to.
You can get very good results (and it's much, much simpler) by shooting in jpg.
I very much doubt you could tell the difference in results.
Here's an example:
And it looks even better at full size - 13574 x 5610
331-61a-X5.jpg
That's a beautiful city and a beautiful image. I agree , but I prefer to have the most information in my file, and I can do a three shot pano in Adobe Camera RAW>merge to panorama and have a lot more leeway for editing adjustments with more information in my file.

Dale
 
Dale, I tried your method, but ran into some problems... The first is that the images didn't smoothly stitch together. The second was that the resulting panorama looked awful. The images were not clear as I was expecting them to be. My frustration in trying to create a hi resolution 360 panorama continues...
 
I have tried using Photoshop & Lightroom a few times to render my 360 photos and although I can make a really nice flat pano, once uploaded to one of the sites that host them it is all warped out. Meaning the horizon is not straight so I assume it is not producing a true 360 image. I also find photo shop faster at merging the final image then Lightroom for some reason. All the extra steps you need to edit in raw I really wonder if its worth it as most people just upload to the net where the photo loses a lot of the work you just put into it.
Using Dales workflow is good for flat panos where you would stitch vertical or horizontal photos but 360 I still have not had success.
 
Last edited:
although I can make a really nice flat pano, once uploaded to one of the sites that host them it is all warped out. Meaning the horizon is not straight so I assume it is not producing a true 360 image.
That's puzzling .. If the horizon looks good when flat, you would expect it to look good when projected as a sphere.
The process is pretty simple.
Here are some instructions I put together years ago.
 
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If you are stitching directly from RAW images then I just have to ask this question - are you applying, at any stage, a lens correction in order to correct for vignetting, distortion etc?
 
I have Cyberlink PhotoDirector, and while reading this thread, looked to see if it had any photo stitching tools, and it does.
I’ll have to go out and shoot some stuff, and see how well it works…
 
That's puzzling .. If the horizon looks good when flat, you would expect it to look good when projected as a sphere.
The process is pretty simple.
Here are some instructions I put together years ago.
Ya thanks for the link. Its pretty much the same as my tutorial for the Autel X-Star that I wrote years ago.
For some reason I don't think Adobe has a camera profile for the Air 2S. WIth all their updates I heard even if it is there you will not see it in the drop down menu now. That might be the problem noidea.gif
Don't know and really don't care. Happy working with Jpegs and no one seems to complain when they see them. ;)
 
For some reason I don't think Adobe has a camera profile for the Air 2S. WIth all their updates I heard even if it is there you will not see it in the drop down menu now. That might be the problem View attachment 133126
Don't know and really don't care. Happy working with Jpegs and no one seems to complain when they see them. ;)
Adobe hasn't released any of those lens profiles since the original Phantom 4.
Since then DJI cameras produce dng files with an embedded lens profile.

.
 
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