Mavic Pro Motor Mod

[Bytored]

If my new ones snap I probably wont be so lucky that it happens at 3ft up but yes aluminum is a good idea.

I made the mounts 1mm thicker and got rid of the sharp edges and went from 50% infill to 100%, thinner layers and tightened up the bolt holes. It went from 6 grams to 11 grams... I guess well see.View attachment 35971

Good idea on eliminating the sharp inside corner as those are weak points. Been machining for a long time and see engineers always use radius's on inside corners for strength.

Looks like an interesting project.

 

[BudWalker]

View attachment 39771 View attachment 39772

The first piece is @lolo780 flight with factory motors and the bottom is mine with P3 motors. I call the top piece "Swan In Flight" and the bottom "Duck Out Of Water".

You might want to use the MotorPower calcs available in CsvView/DatCon. They were developed to meet the needs of the battery/long distance guys. They provide smoothed versions of several signals and other useful signals. Here's an example of a smoothed motor current.


To get the MotorPower calcs.


After CsvView finishes processing a .DAT use the SigPicker to select signals in the MotorPwrCalcs category

 

[chazz]

Good idea on eliminating the sharp inside corner as those are weak points. Been machining for a long time and see engineers always use radius's on inside corners for strength.

Looks like an interesting project.

Thank you,,, I work with machinists that explained this to me..Ive seen the result of not having a radius cut a few times...

 

[chazz]

You might want to use the MotorPower calcs available in CsvView/DatCon. They were developed to meet the needs of the battery/long distance guys. They provide smoothed versions of several signals and other useful signals. Here's an example of a smoothed motor current.
View attachment 39774

To get the MotorPower calcs.
View attachment 39775

After CsvView finishes processing a .DAT use the SigPicker to select signals in the MotorPwrCalcs category
View attachment 39776

I'll definately check that out, Thank You!

 

[beanbubba]

beanbubba i see what you mean with solder not sticking to the P3 motor leads. Two of the new motors i got are like that. I scraped them down with an Xacto and turned the temp up to 800. Hopefully the joint holds..

I just finished rebuilding the crashed bird and I must have held the solder gun too long on one of the esc board solder points. I get an esc#1 error now and I am grounded.

My endurance and patience is running thin on this mod

 

[lolo780]

I just finished rebuilding the crashed bird and I must have held the solder gun too long on one of the esc board solder points. I get an esc#1 error now and I am grounded.

My endurance and patience is running thin on this mod

Darn. Tin the wire and the pad first, then lay the wire on top and melt it in quickly. The actual attachment should only take a few seconds.

I'm using this mainly Weller WESD51 Soldering Station Review - Which Soldering Station

But also use a cheaper iron at home sometimes which works fine for motor leads.

 

[chazz]

I just finished rebuilding the crashed bird and I must have held the solder gun too long on one of the esc board solder points. I get an esc#1 error now and I am grounded.

My endurance and patience is running thin on this mod

I hear ya man... Same

 

[chazz]

You might want to use the MotorPower calcs available in CsvView/DatCon. They were developed to meet the needs of the battery/long distance guys. They provide smoothed versions of several signals and other useful signals. Here's an example of a smoothed motor current.
View attachment 39774

To get the MotorPower calcs.
View attachment 39775

After CsvView finishes processing a .DAT use the SigPicker to select signals in the MotorPwrCalcs category
View attachment 39776

Just checked it out. Nice!

 

[chazz]

@lolo780 if you don't already know about that "MotorPower calc" BudWalker mentioned above you should check it out.

 

[BudWalker]

@lolo780 if you don't already know about that "MotorPower calc" BudWalker mentioned above you should check it out.

Actually, it was @lolo780 's suggestions that lead to most of those features

 

[chazz]

First test with mine bouncing it up and down with an ms8000 attached for a few minutes no current above 8.2amps, no weird vibrations, pwm stayed below 8. Next test when i get time is with my lion 20000 whatever mah.

 

[beanbubba]

I hear ya man... Same

FWIW - in my experience you get 1 or maybe 2 shots at re-soldering the motor leads to the board. After that its Russian roulette if you fry the board or not.

I need a 6 pack of esc boards...

 

[beanbubba]

beanbubba i see what you mean with solder not sticking to the P3 motor leads. Two of the new motors i got are like that. I scraped them down with an Xacto and turned the temp up to 800. Hopefully the joint holds..

On my second set of motors I soldered to the pre-tinned leads and that worked perfectly and as expected.

I took a piece of the lead wire and experimented tinning the bare wire myself. Whatever that lead wire is made of, it's not standard and needs some different preparation or special solder and/or flux to properly tin it.

If there are any experts on this topic, I am all ears for ideas.

 

[lolo780]

FWIW - in my experience you get 1 or maybe 2 shots at re-soldering the motor leads to the board. After that its Russian roulette if you fry the board or not.

I need a 6 pack of esc boards...

You could fix all your old ESC boards with a hot plate. I use a hot air gun as well. Also makes fixing those broken ufl connectors and mavic RC usb ports simple.

Could also try this but it's more for a high amp burst vs long term thermal loading.

 

[beanbubba]

You could fix all your old ESC boards with a hot plate. I use a hot air gun as well. Also makes fixing those broken ufl connectors and mavic RC usb ports simple.

Could also try this but it's more for a high amp burst vs long term thermal loading.
View attachment 39799

If there is anything worth doing, it's worth over-doing

 

[beanbubba]

View attachment 39372

Lolo.

Can you markup this photo with the chips I should put the mini heat sinks on?

Thanks,
beanbubba

 

[lolo780]

Lolo.

Can you markup this photo with the chips I should put the mini heat sinks on?

Thanks,
beanbubba

View attachment 39822

Those do the heavy lifting.

And of course do not get anything conductive near the electrical pathways. I wonder which is better, dab of thermal adhesive on each chip and leave paths for air to flow, or covering the whole area with non conductive thermal compound.

Try both ways on either side and compare?

 

[beanbubba]

Those do the heavy lifting.

And of course do not get anything conductive near the electrical pathways. I wonder which is better, dab of thermal adhesive on each chip and leave paths for air to flow, or covering the whole area with non conductive thermal compound.

Try both ways on either side and compare?
View attachment 39823

Lolo,

Are you an engineering savant, or do you have professional experience with this stuff? You are the smartest person on this forum with regards to specific engineering details (or at least the most talented that has demonstrated it). I think you have played coy long enough and can share your story.

Thank you Sir Lolo, you have advanced this forum more than anyone I have seen so far and it is appreciated!!

I will speak up for others on this site that won't express their gratitude

 

[chazz]

On my second set of motors I soldered to the pre-tinned leads and that worked perfectly and as expected.

I took a piece of the lead wire and experimented tinning the bare wire myself. Whatever that lead wire is made of, it's not standard and needs some different preparation or special solder and/or flux to properly tin it.

If there are any experts on this topic, I am all ears for ideas.

I've had problems with the factory pretinned end in the past (esc errors) and always cut it off. Apparently the coating is insulation and some motors must have more of this then others. Scraping it off seemed to work for me. Next time (if there is a next time) i may try burning it off...If you are having an esc error on one i would revisit the motor leads one more time..

Magnet wire - Wikipedia

 

[beanbubba]

I've had problems with the factory pretinned end in the past (esc errors) and always cut it off. Apparently the coating is insulation and some motors must have more of this then others. Scraping it off seemed to work for me. Next time (if there is a next time) i may try burning it off...If you are having an esc error on one i would revisit the motor leads one more time..

Magnet wire - Wikipedia

That makes perfect sense, thanks for sharing.