Updated "blue" charger and my thoughts

[Dw911]

Yes but remember the whole circuit board is completely isolated from the case and the circuit board is grounded via the earth pin.

Then its not safe to use, if the case is metal, then the metal case should be connected to the earth wire, for safety, in case a live wire or live part of the circuit board makes contact with the inside of the metal case.

Only if the case is plastic does it not need an earth (double insulated) the case on this charger is clearly metal and needs to be earthed

 

[Lapeer20m]

I have the new updated version.

Why do they call it a 4 in one charger?

It charges 3 batteries and 2 devices.

So it's either a 3 in 1 or a 5 in 1...but it's not a 4 in one.

 

[dwallersv]

The OP does say that he tested this with a multi meter in the first two lines of his post.

Read that. Tested what?

 

[dwallersv]

Yes but remember the whole circuit board is completely isolated from the case and the circuit board is grounded via the earth pin.

No disrespect or insult meant, but this just demonstrates ignorance of what the issue is, and generally what the grounding lug on an appliance is for.

Notice that some things have grounded plugs some don't. Why?

Has absolutely nothing to do with the electronics inside. Indeed, the electronics SHOULD be completely isolated from the case electrically.

Appliances, with metal parts that can be touched by the user, are required to have a grounded plug, and the ground connection is supposed to be connected to the metal enclosure and any metal parts that are accessible to the user.

I'm an electrical engineer. Got my degree in '84. Been doing this stuff a long time. The product in the OP, as pictured, is a potential electrocution risk IF power shorts to the case from the PCB, compromised insulation, etc.

This can be fixed very easily by disassembling the product, drilling and tapping a small hole in the case, screw a closed spade lug to the case internally, run the wire over to the the plug connections (second picture in the OP) and solder to the ground lug.

As I say, it's easy, but if you screw it up, you can also electrocute yourself. Mistakenly solder to the hot, and you've energized the case when you plug it in.

Regardless, this product, as pictured, has the grounding problem.

 

[Anthony]

No disrespect or insult meant, but this just demonstrates ignorance of what the issue is, and generally what the grounding lug on an appliance is for.

Notice that some things have grounded plugs some don't. Why?

Has absolutely nothing to do with the electronics inside. Indeed, the electronics SHOULD be completely isolated from the case electrically.

Appliances, with metal parts that can be touched by the user, are required to have a grounded plug, and the ground connection is supposed to be connected to the metal enclosure and any metal parts that are accessible to the user.

I'm an electrical engineer. Got my degree in '84. Been doing this stuff a long time. The product in the OP, as pictured, is a potential electrocution risk IF power shorts to the case from the PCB, compromised insulation, etc.

This can be fixed very easily by disassembling the product, drilling and tapping a small hole in the case, screw a closed spade lug to the case internally, run the wire over to the the plug connections (second picture in the OP) and solder to the ground lug.

As I say, it's easy, but if you screw it up, you can also electrocute yourself. Mistakenly solder to the hot, and you've energized the case when you plug it in.

Regardless, this product, as pictured, has the grounding problem.

Lol at no point have I said this is safe so no ignorance is implied... the fist version had not been ground at all...... this version has the main circuit board grounded but still not the case I don't see anyone claiming that the case has been grounded just that the isolated circuit board is now grounded that's all.

 

[kiwi flyer]

older to the hot, and you've energized the case when you plug it in.

Regardless, this product, as pictured, has the grounding problem.

Oh man, as much as I am capable to do this "fix" , its something that we shouldn't need to do. Thanks for the clear explanation - (I had noticed that too from the pics)

 

[RayOZ]

well, maybe i should've read the OP again before I made the purchase for the older version. I shoud've paid more for safety. I opened up mine and it seems the earth pin of the plug is connected to the enclosure cover. Doesn't it mean the enclosure is grounded? Should the GND of the PCB be soldered to the earth pin too? Would it cause noise to the output?

 

[Dw911]

well, maybe i should've read the OP again before I made the purchase for the older version. I shoud've paid more for safety. I opened up mine and it seems the earth pin of the plug is connected to the enclosure cover. Doesn't it mean the enclosure is grounded? Should the GND of the PCB be soldered to the earth pin too? Would it cause noise to the output?
View attachment 28343

Assuming that end cover is metal and the earth wire is fixed to it correctly, as long you secure it back on to the main case with the screws - clean away any paint and or anodizing from the screws and case where they make contact - then your charger will be correctly earthed from a safety point of view

The one the op posted is not correctly earthed, so you did the right thing getting the one you did

 

[RayOZ]

Thanks. I'll double check with a multimeter for continuity between the main housing and the earth pin, to make sure it's grounded. I showed the pic to a friend, and he was more concerned that it doesn't meet Australian Standards. e.g. the L, N and Earth cables aren't even the correct colour code. He wonders what else in the actual design in the PCB that doesn't meet proper standards.

 

[kiwi flyer]

Thanks. I'll double check with a multimeter for continuity between the main housing and the earth pin, to make sure it's grounded. I showed the pic to a friend, and he was more concerned that it doesn't meet Australian Standards. e.g. the L, N and Earth cables aren't even the correct colour code. He wonders what else in the actual design in the PCB that doesn't meet proper standards.

A lot of stuff from China is like that. I've order a few electronic items and often they just use all black or red wires!! lol Last year I built a Virtual Pinball machine, and did a lot of wiring of components that originated from China. Having said that, some of the stuff wasn't too bad.

 

[Dw911]

Thanks. I'll double check with a multimeter for continuity between the main housing and the earth pin, to make sure it's grounded. I showed the pic to a friend, and he was more concerned that it doesn't meet Australian Standards. e.g. the L, N and Earth cables aren't even the correct colour code. He wonders what else in the actual design in the PCB that doesn't meet proper standards.

Yes very wise.
Your friends probably right, although my main concern would have been the earth, or lack of it, as for the cable colour, its probably what they had laying around or was cheap, although probably the right colour in some country lol.
But joking aside, i agree the board probably would not meet the standards required in your country or mine or many others.
I think with stuff like this as long as you take some extra precautions and use with care i.e dont leave it charging unattended etc, then you should be ok.
Although if i had one like the op posted, i would not use it full stop until i added an earth to the case

 

[RayOZ]

A lot of stuff from China is like that. I've order a few electronic items and often they just use all black or red wires!! lol Last year I built a Virtual Pinball machine, and did a lot of wiring of components that originated from China. Having said that, some of the stuff wasn't too bad.

I know. The worse I've seen was on an ELV panel; brown wire for 0VDC, blue wire for 24VDC.

 

[RayOZ]

Yes very wise.
Your friends probably right, although my main concern would have been the earth, or lack of it, as for the cable colour, its probably what they had laying around or was cheap, although probably the right colour in some country lol.
But joking aside, i agree the board probably would not meet the standards required in your country or mine or many others.
I think with stuff like this as long as you take some extra precautions and use with care i.e dont leave it charging unattended etc, then you should be ok

Definitely won't leave it plugged in and unattended. If it causes a fire or any property damage, I don't think insurance will cover it.

 

[Dariof]

I got mine today. It doesn’t have the meter on it, but I couldn’t care less. When it’s finished charging, it’s finished.. I’ll try it out this weekend.

 

[travishauch]

A lot of stuff from China is like that. I've order a few electronic items and often they just use all black or red wires!! lol Last year I built a Virtual Pinball machine, and did a lot of wiring of components that originated from China. Having said that, some of the stuff wasn't too bad.

Here's my work in progress!
Legs came in last week.

 

[kiwi flyer]

Here's my work in progress!
Legs came in last week.

Here's my machine: KiwiBri's 46/30/DMD Judge Dredd Cab build - Page 4 - Virtual Pinball Cabinets

A lot of the parts came from China. A couple dedicated 5V & 12V Power supplies from China . I built the DMD display and that's powered by its own supply. I built a shaker motor, there's 10 Solenoids in there, and huge resistor board. Been a while since I touched it. But yeah, back on topic, the chinese electrical stuff can be good for the price.. depending on how its used.

 

[DeeCee]

What in the world does pin ball machines have to do with DIJ Magic drones and related accessories.

 

[RayOZ]

yes. it seemed to have gone way off topic...

 

[kiwi flyer]

What in the world does pin ball machines have to do with DIJ Magic drones and related accessories.

Sorry, We were discussing electrical parts purchased from China, in relation to build quality etc.

 

[RayOZ]

Just a quick update to my charger. I haven't used it yet, although I've turned it on. Been busy and weather wasn't permitting to fly.
The paint on the enclosure and front/back cover has insulating properties. I found no continuity from the front enclosure screws and the earth pin. The main enclosure (blue part) is made out of 2 piece, and the blue paint actually insulates the 2 pieces.
I opened the enclosure, filed away the paint on the 4 screw holes to expose the metal (did for front and back cover), and also the surface of the nut where the black wire is soldered to the earth pin. It should be good now. The red wires are rather soft too. Might have to replaced with proper blue/brown double insulated wires.