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Tired off .500 so I am back on .400

HUH !!!
What !!!
Please explain further, this one missed me.

Rob
refer to downlink bandwith

settings1.png


settings2.png
 
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It was removed? I never even noticed that when I was on .0500
Thanks for the heads up. This is another reason not to upgrade. I think 10Mhz is wise in crowded areas but if your flying in the middle of nowhere why use 10 when you can get the extra data link speed with 20mhz of Bandwidth.

I have got to take a better look at this when I go home.

Thanks again

Rob
 
10 vs 20 deals with the band witdth
10 is narrow so it'll pierce better trees etc (than 20)
20 is large so it'll spread better for long distance

I am quite sure that the discussion we have deals with this details...

I would be glad if someone as the knowledge to share on this subject and it's evolutions between FW.


(this doesn't deals with NFZ troubles we encountered in the .500)
 
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10 vs 20 deals with the band witdth
10 is narrow so it'll pierce better trees etc (than 20)
20 is large so it'll spread better for long distance

I am quite sure that the discussion we have deals with this details...

I would be glad if someone as the knowledge to share on this subject and it's evolutions between FW.


(this doesn't deals with NFZ troubles we encountered in the .500)

The Bandwidth being narrow is really not going to make any real difference to penetration or distance. As a matter of fact the more bandwidth you have means the more data that can be sent and the more error correction data that can be incorporated. Knowing that 10Mhz is the only setting now gives me a better idea as to why my signal just dropped out like that on .500

With 20Mhz BW they can incorporate a lot more error correction and prevent video breakup. The only expense is that less people can use the same section of BW and it's possible to pick up more interference.

City flying then 10Mhz might be safer.
Flying in rural areas you will always want 20Mhz turned on.

Rob
 
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The Bandwidth being narrow is really not going to make any real difference to penetration or distance. As a matter of fact the more bandwidth you have means the more data that can be sent and the more error correction data that can be incorporated. Knowing that 10Mhz is the only setting now gives me a better idea as to why my signal just dropped out like that on .500

With 20Mhz BW they can incorporate a lot more error correction and prevent video breakup. The only expense is that less people can use the same section of BW and it's possible to pick up more interference.

City flying then 10Mhz might be safer.
Flying in rural areas you will always want 20Mhz turned on.

Rob
Rob,

I was curious and just checked. FW .500 does still offer the option of 10Mhz or 20Mhz BW.
 
Rob,

I was curious and just checked. FW .500 does still offer the option of 10Mhz or 20Mhz BW.

Thanks for letting me know. I was almost tempted to go back to .500 to confirm it was removed.

Rob
 
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I did change to .400 yesterday evening but before on .500 I did not get the chance to change between 10 and 20.
it is a point that DJI would help by clarifiing this and how to swap between bandwidth in the menu.
 
I did change to .400 yesterday evening but before on .500 I did not get the chance to change between 10 and 20.
it is a point that DJI would help by clarifiing this and how to swap between bandwidth in the menu.


Go into custom mode instead of Auto and you can change it.

Rob
 
I may go back to .500 then...
because I have been reading that in some language I can not choose the custom setting (like in UK for exemple).
(I am frech speaking in New Caledonia)
because my MAVIC is a EU version perhaps it is the case ? ...

will go back to .500 this evening and will choose English USA to try

c.f. Cannot select custom video transmission option

I have just an only changed the language in settings of DJIGO4 to english (it was on mobile's language before) and now I can swap between customs and auto with 20 and 10 mhz choise on the .400.

need to test this evening for the .500
perhaps we found a solution, a least for the the distance not the NFZ..
 
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Another downgrade to .400 (from 500) here. I was hoping 550 would have fixed the broken API so litchi would be fully functional again but when it didn't I decided to roll back while I still could.

If I decided to move to something else such as 600 in future, can I cache/backup the .400 firmware files myself to ensure I don't lose access to them in future? I did the downgrade using the Go4 app so I'm presuming the files are somewhere on my android device.

If it's not possible to recover them from an android device, perhaps someone who's done a downgrade using the desktop application would be kind enough to hunt them down on their HDD and post a link to download them.
 
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10 vs 20 deals with the band witdth
10 is narrow so it'll pierce better trees etc (than 20)
20 is large so it'll spread better for long distance

You're confusing bandwidth with wavelength. Bandwidth has to do with data transmission capacity. Wavelength is the physical wave form height. Ability to penetrate is affected by many factors, but bandwidth isn't one of them.
 
You're confusing bandwidth with wavelength. Bandwidth has to do with data transmission capacity. Wavelength is the physical wave form height. Ability to penetrate is affected by many factors, but bandwidth isn't one of them.

I think you meant width/frequency not height, well height if by that you mean amplitude/power.
Wavelength/Frequency and Power is what determines the signals ability to penetrate.

Rob
 
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For those who have been following, you have a limited time before .400 goes off the list. I suspect that just before the Goggles go public on May 20th they may do an update to enhance the features of the goggles.

With the help of a tech at work who is into using VMware I was able to do the snapshot of DJIAssistant2 with the firmware ready to be loaded on the Mavic.

Mavicpilots member BorisTheSpider was the first person to Bravely test this method and discovered that it works . All credit for this goes to him.

If you have been following along in the other thread.
You need to install a fresh copy of Windows into VMware and then Install the Assisant2 software. Next make an image of the Windows installation with VMware.

Please note that when I talk about updating the RC or the Mavic you must make sure the other unit is turned off. So if your creating the snapshot for the RC make sure the Mavic is powered off and not connected and vice versa when doing the Mavic.

After you have a clean image of windows saved run Assistant2 then login into your DJI account and hook up the Remote Controller via USB making sure it has 45%-48% battery remaining. When the RC is detected, click firmware and install the .400 firmware.

The installation will pause just before it is ready to write to the RC and error out saying that the battery needs to be at 50%. It is waiting for you to put in an RC that is charged above 50%.

At this point, leave the software running and go in and disconnect the network connection in VMware. I did this as a safety feature in case they ever try to send some kind of blocking command for this method in the future.

Once the network connection is turned off take a Snapshot of the Win7 and name it "RC Snapshot .400" and save it in the VMware snapshot folder.

Now shutdown DJI assistant, turn back on the networking and rerun the assistant again. This time hook up the Mavic with a less than 50% battery and repeat the process, the download will happen instantly because it already has the files, so it will just pause and ask you to try again with a charged battery. Just take another snapshot and name it "Mavic Snapshot .400".

Turn back on the network connection and you are done.

The files are saved in the VMware user folder and can be copied and saved separately in case you want to remove VMware and the Win installation. If at anytime you need to go back to .400 just reinstall VMware and then tell it to restore the Windows image file or you can leave it in place for easy access. Next, Run the windows image and restore the associated snapshot one at a time and plug in your Mavic or RC that matches the running snapshot.

This method will work for any firmware version that you choose to save for the future. If you want, you can make snapshots of every version of the firmware that you choose to. Each snapshot is about 190MB and the Win image is about 2GB


Rob
 
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Rob be sure not to delete the base windows VMware image. It sounded like you might think that was possible, but it's not - the snapshots are dependent on the base image usually (ie. They only contain the changes/differences) and can't be used alone without the image which they are based off of.
 
Rob be sure not to delete the base windows VMware image. It sounded like you might think that was possible, but it's not - the snapshots are dependent on the base image usually (ie. They only contain the changes/differences) and can't be used alone without the image which they are based off of.

Hi Boris. Yes I know, the tech told me. That's why I mentioned at the end of the post the 2GB base image and the 190MB snapshots.
Thanks again for your help on this.
BTW I am not deleting my win copy. Now that it's setup it's so easy to keep saving versions that I think I will keep it and archive as many as I can.

Rob
 
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You can grab the firmware package from a rooted android device too, but not sure what to do with it to trigger the install.
 
Rob be sure not to delete the base windows VMware image. It sounded like you might think that was possible, but it's not - the snapshots are dependent on the base image usually (ie. They only contain the changes/differences) and can't be used alone without the image which they are based off of.
What's the issue with the latest v0.600 firmware ?
 
Gents, this is too technical for me. I'll keep the .0400 until my Mavic can not take off again.
Do I have to be concerned with all these VMare, snapshots, battery level, Windows version, network connection, etc, etc, etc?
 
Gents, this is too technical for me. I'll keep the .0400 until my Mavic can not take off again.
Do I have to be concerned with all these VMare, snapshots, battery level, Windows version, network connection, etc, etc, etc?

No if you stick with the firmware your fine. This just gives you the ability to upgrade and then downgrade back to .400 no matter what happens.

I know the process is a bit intimidating but after doing it with somebody helping I then realized that if I had spent a couple of hours on my own I could have figured it out. You just need to do a bit of reading on how VMware works.

Rob
 
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